eaglescout526

It wouldn’t know if it’s bad at all. It just runs the ROM and it pulses the injector. You won’t see a signal on a VOM, hence why noid lights exist for this reason.

Noid light will help tell if the injector circuit is working. A failed injector would cause a no start.

TPS can be known to do funny things when it is heat soaked but don’t count on it. Multimeter will tell you if the CPS is good in the AC position on the meter.

I mean it is possible to separate the handle and stick it on an AX5 shifter tower if someone wants that taller shifter. Regardless if it’s AX4/5, you have from basically 1984-2001 XJ.

Sorry, yes I had a busy weekend and didn’t have a moment to sit down and run them. I’ll get this evening.

Hmmm, I don’t recall when they were brought up if anyone tried them

Yes it has been covered. They are reproduced too for the ford guys.

That ECU was made the 31st week of 1986.

Well I wouldn’t argue with Chrysler but I’d use extreme caution when using a later body in an early trans and vice versa. I’m not a transmission expert by any means but messing something up like that can be expensive quick.

The relay is bolted to the underside of the dash itself. If you crawl under and look up by the column, you should see a silver box plugged into what looks like a connector that should have 8 wires but only has 4 in a row(best way I can describe the wire and get you to the relay you’re looking for)

Yes, if you put the 2.5L one in, it should solve your spilling issue but I think it requires an open cooling system conversion.

Hmm, according to the catalog valve assembly 83503760 was used from 1987-93. Oh this is neat.

Factory set up or dealer installed?

How much? Out here you have to consume close to a gallon to avoid any of the heat effects and even then it’s still a risk.

There is a breaker like thing, it’s a thermistor and it’s set to make sure the evap doesn’t freeze over….I should unplug mine for AZ honestly. But if both the blower motor and compressor are turning off together, something is wrong somewhere. Or something is getting heat soaked and causing power loss IE the blower control switch on the AC deck. I’ve also had a relay die from heat soaking and stop the compressor.

This is good! I guess I could’ve found such too, and good thing I have some feeler gauges.

The fuses are in a little encapsulated piece of rubber that looks like a stopper and would have one or two wires coming out of it. That’s weird that you suddenly have no power. Have you checked all your relays make sure they work.

Might have to test the fusible links at the starter relay and see if you accidentally blew one open.

So when you turn on the key, the pump doesn’t run for 2 seconds? It just keeps going and going? Sounds like power is going where it shouldn’t be. Or the relay is shorted and just stuck on. Well let’s start at what you were doing. Installing DRL. Ok. What did you poke and touch when looking for a constant power wire?

Has any of you HO guys thought about using the Renix era ones? I know it’s a two prong that is basically just a switch that turns the compressor on or off which I assume is the same function here except there are three wires present. I don’t know much about that style or what each wire does but maybe the Renix one can be adapted.

Just a quick follow up, I tried cruisers method to just spray the clutch with a cleaner, haven’t had the issue show back up. But in the mean time, I’ll look into pressure and the spacer thing.

6504995AA is the mopar number.

Mopar has a later part number that is in use.

Would this cause my clutch to act funny? I thought about the pressure from the system but couldn’t find a link between the two as it runs fine for the first 15 min. It’s after that fact when the clutch slips and is “engaged” but acts like it’s not engaged.

The same! Yup, AMC got smart with those for the speaker mounting.