eaglescout526

*A6 Seats - Vinyl High Back Bucket -YY 3LX AGI APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE BCQ Battery - Maintenance Free CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DGW Transmission - 4-Spd. Automatic ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GPB DUAL - O/S MIRR PKG - LOW MOUNT - CHROME HAA AIR CONDITIONING HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAE EMISS CONTROL TESTING LABEL PYN QYN RAB Radio - AM/FM SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT TBL TIRE CARRIER - INSIDE WJN 15" ALUMINUM WHEELS Build date 10/8/86 Body code JH61 Sold by STOCKTON JEEP-EAGLE, STOCKTON CA

*C1 TRIM STYLE C1 - CLOTH & VINYL BENCH SEAT -SA Charcoal 167 Zone 67-Charlotte 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 23C Customer Preferred Package 23C 2TC Customer Preferred Package 2TC 3VN Customer Preferred Discount 4BJ 4HA Special Scheduling Condition I 4M1 Retail to Bid Diversion Tracking 4UA SCA Tissue North America LLC ALA APA MONOTONE PAINT BAR 90 AMP ALTERNATOR BCD 550 AMP MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY BGA POWER FRONT DISC/REAR DRUM BRAKES CBA STRAIGHT BACK BENCH SEAT CKA CARPETS - FLOOR CUM MINI FLOOR CONSOLE DBB ALL MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS DDQ 5-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION DMF 4.10 REAR AXLE RATIO DRJ DANA 35 REAR AXLE EPE Engine - 2.5L Power Tech I-4 Cyl. GAC TINTED GLASS WINDOWS GBB TINTED WINDSHIELD GLASS GCB FRONT DOOR TINTED GLASS GEH FIXED DOOR VENT GLASS GRZ LEFT REMOTE MIRROR GSZ RIGHT REMOTE CONTROL MIRROR GTZ MANUAL REMOTE MIRRORS HAA AIR CONDITIONING JAZ DO NOT USE - SEE JP, KA CLASSES JCA 85 MPH PRIMARY SPEEDOMETER JHA VAR INTERMITTENT WINDSHIELD WIPERS JJA CIGAR LIGHTER K3Z STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KER KWR STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LAP SHIFT INDICATOR WARNING LAMP LBC GLOVE BOX LAMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MB1 Black Front Bumper MBJ BLACK BUMPER MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFF Black Grille MHA Black Windshield Moldings MMC MMG Belt Moldings MMK NAA Federal Emissions NBK EVAP Control System NF2 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank NMC Heavy Duty Engine Cooling PB8 QB8 RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAF AM/FM Cassette Radio RCD 4 Speakers SBA Power Steering SCG Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers SUA Tilt Steering Column TBC Compact Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TMW Tires TZA Goodyear Brand Tires WJH 15X7 Aluminum Wheels WLZ All Aluminum Wheels XBS Pickup Box YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z1A GVW/Payload Rating Z57 Left Front Spring Group Vii Z76 Right Front Spring Group VI Build date 9/19/91 Body code TL61 Sold by ALAN HYATT JEEP-EAGLE, SMITHFIELD NC

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - PLASTIC BUCKET SEAT -ZZ CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual EFB ENGINE - 2.8L GM 6CYL GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MD8 Delete Front License Plate Bracket NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) Build date 2/24/86 Body code JL62

It wouldn’t know if it’s bad at all. It just runs the ROM and it pulses the injector. You won’t see a signal on a VOM, hence why noid lights exist for this reason.

Noid light will help tell if the injector circuit is working. A failed injector would cause a no start.

TPS can be known to do funny things when it is heat soaked but don’t count on it. Multimeter will tell you if the CPS is good in the AC position on the meter.

I mean it is possible to separate the handle and stick it on an AX5 shifter tower if someone wants that taller shifter. Regardless if it’s AX4/5, you have from basically 1984-2001 XJ.

Sorry, yes I had a busy weekend and didn’t have a moment to sit down and run them. I’ll get this evening.

Hmmm, I don’t recall when they were brought up if anyone tried them

Yes it has been covered. They are reproduced too for the ford guys.

That ECU was made the 31st week of 1986.

Well I wouldn’t argue with Chrysler but I’d use extreme caution when using a later body in an early trans and vice versa. I’m not a transmission expert by any means but messing something up like that can be expensive quick.

The relay is bolted to the underside of the dash itself. If you crawl under and look up by the column, you should see a silver box plugged into what looks like a connector that should have 8 wires but only has 4 in a row(best way I can describe the wire and get you to the relay you’re looking for)

Yes, if you put the 2.5L one in, it should solve your spilling issue but I think it requires an open cooling system conversion.

Hmm, according to the catalog valve assembly 83503760 was used from 1987-93. Oh this is neat.

Factory set up or dealer installed?

How much? Out here you have to consume close to a gallon to avoid any of the heat effects and even then it’s still a risk.

There is a breaker like thing, it’s a thermistor and it’s set to make sure the evap doesn’t freeze over….I should unplug mine for AZ honestly. But if both the blower motor and compressor are turning off together, something is wrong somewhere. Or something is getting heat soaked and causing power loss IE the blower control switch on the AC deck. I’ve also had a relay die from heat soaking and stop the compressor.

This is good! I guess I could’ve found such too, and good thing I have some feeler gauges.

The fuses are in a little encapsulated piece of rubber that looks like a stopper and would have one or two wires coming out of it. That’s weird that you suddenly have no power. Have you checked all your relays make sure they work.

Might have to test the fusible links at the starter relay and see if you accidentally blew one open.

So when you turn on the key, the pump doesn’t run for 2 seconds? It just keeps going and going? Sounds like power is going where it shouldn’t be. Or the relay is shorted and just stuck on. Well let’s start at what you were doing. Installing DRL. Ok. What did you poke and touch when looking for a constant power wire?

Has any of you HO guys thought about using the Renix era ones? I know it’s a two prong that is basically just a switch that turns the compressor on or off which I assume is the same function here except there are three wires present. I don’t know much about that style or what each wire does but maybe the Renix one can be adapted.

Just a quick follow up, I tried cruisers method to just spray the clutch with a cleaner, haven’t had the issue show back up. But in the mean time, I’ll look into pressure and the spacer thing.

6504995AA is the mopar number.