eaglescout526

I just used electrical contact cleaner from Mopar and just blast the absolute ever lasting hell out of the C101. Anytime I have an issue, I spray that connector thanks to the grease inside getting warm and moving around. That being said, it’s not fragile, more sensitive to what you do if it’s not clean. Cleaning it out is an option as well.

No problem!

I’m pretty sure Renix is 0-88 ohms

That’s interesting that you need proof to be in a car club that acknowledges it as antique to obtain a historic plate. If that’s what you are going for. I’ve always heard the rule if it’s 30 or older, it’s an antique. In AZ they will hand out historic vehicle plates to cars from the late 90’s which are just barely 20. But I guess we are if you look at it with the oldest MJ being 38.

It depends on how it’s saved. If your on a PC, edit it, rotate it, save it and then repost the pic. Same if you’re on mobile as well. It’s not the site it’s how the file was coded.

Are you sure you’re losing voltage? Has the system been charged recently? The system has a pressure switch that will let the 12v through to power the relay to engage the clutch. If the system has no pressure, it won’t pass the voltage on.

Yeah it’s pretty much the pilot bushing and the clutch disc itself fighting each other to release easily. There should be no harm in prying the two apart. Just be ready for a sudden thud of the engine or transmission. Or both. Or if you let off enough slack on the back but give it some tension you could probably wiggle and rock it off.

Well shoot if you said you had that I couldve said "yeah you arent gonna get the angle with the money that thing costs" haha. That jack is nice but a pain to use for angles.

Well you could unbolt the pressure plate and that would outright loosen it but honestly when removing the trans, it’s the angling of everything. When I removed the trans on my XJ, I had to pry it apart and that’s when I learned there was a slight angling issue when it fully released. No damage was done.

It connects to a sensor that I dont think can be had new anymore. The sensor has a sprung ball bearing on the end of it that pushes against a shaft in the transmission that sends the speed back to the ECU to trigger the light.

Is this what Chrysler refers to as the "Jeep|Eagle" connector?

It will take it till it gives out and it will still keep going.

This. There’s a cable that goes from the drivers to the passenger rail. The cable is either caught, loose or non existent.

@Pete M

The regulator is the yellow box yes. And you verified the speed sensor at the speedo cable is sending pulses too correct? Oh hell shoot me a PM and I can send you a regulator and the servo to test and you can send back whatever doesn’t work.

Ohhhhh right right right. Ok metri pack. I’ve got a few of those to spare.

Discovered these two gems while going through my 45's. Apparently the version of Hey lover I enjoy, can not be found anywhere except youtube. Shazam doesnt even recognize it and its from 67.

Had to replace the ebrake cable. I ordered one a couple weeks ago and got an XJ one. Ok I’m not that mad as I have an XJ so that kind works out haha. But I got the right one yesterday. Raybestos one for the long bed. I think I had been rocking a short bed one for a bit. But it worked till it snapped. I did find out why I broke the cable and it’s because I put one of the drums back together wrong and the bar for the ebrake fell and thus there was no tension on it and resulted in me having to adjust and tighten the ebrake till it snapped. Whoops. But I did manage to get it out and installed in under 2 hours without having to remove all the interior. Bench came out, kick panel off and lower sill/scuff panel had screws removed but flexed out of the way. Thank you AMC for that one.

That’s the servo itself. The speed sensor is behind the cluster attached to the speedo cable. You can test that with an old speedo cable or the adapter section attached to a drill and the VOM reading I think AC and it will show the pulses. I believe the pulse signal is on the sensor itself.

Hmmm. Maybe inspect the ends where the clamps are.

Clamps good and tight?

Bit below half. But between half and 1/4 would be best.

Grounds being dirty.

I’ve had issues getting one off, but never on the lock cylinder. Could always put some oil on the parts.

Can you at least get it started to get a small hammer or something in the door to tap it into place?