eaglescout526

Ahhh yes the year changeover. That’s why your having issues. Theres two temp sensors used for 86 and it’s all dependent on the head the 2.5L has and seeing how the later 4.0/2.5L won’t fit, you’ll need the older one. I’ll get a part number this evening when I get home.

What year is your MJ?

I had nothin but issues with the full one. From it not fitting right, not letting me get bolts in, to having a fuel leak at the gasket. …just trying to help save some headaches

May I suggest using the OEM manifold gasket on the 2.5L which is just a gasket on the intake manifold?

$50 +$20shipping?! The hell?! That’s outrageous honestly. $70 for a reservoir that yes you can’t find much anymore but is only for a small niche of XJ and MJs. $30 and free shipping would be the most I’d ever do and go to get one if I needed one. As said above, junk yard is not a half bad idea to search the older stuff and see what you can find.

Don’t get the crown ones. They’re for the HO and only have one port on them. The Renix 4 ports look exactly like that football but with 4 ports. As far as specs, I think most on the market will hold the same vacuum pressure that the engine will produce. Shouldn’t need anything incredibly strong for cruise control. The GM tin can ones can work as a substitute or any two port ball really.

I mean hell, I’d buy it just because it’s an 85 waggy and it’s not something you see. Sucks it doesn’t have the nameplate for the front header which is offset to the drivers side but I might have one for it. Also a base waggy but still cool as hell and luxurious. Shame the original owner didn’t get it with the system sentry that would be another reason to snag it. But the only thing I’d have to worry about as is is just the carb and vac system. Otherwise it would be a fun driver until the engine just craps the bed.

More than likely unless you want to run a carb on the 3.4L and send it then that should be the easiest route with the AMC|Jeep wiring and set up.

85 waggy. Nice. Don’t see to many that survive these days. Let alone be in nice shape even if the paint is meh. Honestly I’d keep it pure. But that 2.8L is gonna make you want to sell it in the future. You can drop in a 4.0, but you’ll definitely have to beat the firewall to accept the 4.0. And you’d have to swap everything else with the 4.0 as well. That being said, an easy bolt in without any issues is the GM 3.4L of the same family. That can be carbed or fuel injected and you can keep the trans and t-case without swapping those. If it was me, I’d drop the 3.4L in, go fuel injected and enjoy it.

I think it’s fair to here, haha. I mean luckily it’s not the diesel.

He does say Rochester and mechanical pump for fuel so it’s the GM one. Little history, the carb sucks, not fun to work on and has minimal adjustments due to all the emissions stuff that had to be tied in. Often times an engine swap to a 3.4 with carb of fuel injection is the better route to take. But don’t expect too much power from the V6. It outputs less than the 2.5L.

Found 4 more sentinel/headlamp delay modules laying around. A nice upgrade and a wow piece to have to shock those that your MJ or XJ can be just as modern as their car

Yeah, its still around. I dont notice it much anymore but I take it into fact that you have three bulbs blinking at once can be hell of a demand electrically. I imagine if you went to LED the issue would go away. Given how both XJ and MJ are wired and alot seem to share the same ground wire at a splice in the dash, in the engine bay and at the chassis, theres bound to be a some other circuits affected. Its like when a high demand appliance like an AC in your house can make the lights dim for a second and back to normal after the appliance is running.

Welp, the AZ heat finally got to me and has tasked me to address my headliner. The tweed headliner we did back in ‘16 is finally sagging badly to where it’s bothering me. You know, I’m surprised it held up for so long. I did notice it starting to sag in ‘20 but it just got worse. Time to slather more glue on and hope it sticks another 10 years haha. I might have to look into a new headliner board at that point.

I’d like to suggest some pics of what we’re looking to help you with here. Typically the 4.0 and 2.5 have a fan clutch that’s held on by four nuts on the water pump.

Yeah 18 and 23 are the exact same sending unit.

If it’s the original tank, it will have a date and gallon plate by the sending unit opening. Long beds came with 16 or 23. 16 will be identified by a shorter arm on the sending unit and the filler tubes inside will be longer than the 23 gallon.

Nope. Tried a G34 in my 84 XJ and it will not fit. The hold down is different for 84-86.

I am issuing a technical service bulletin for my cruise control kits. If you have purchased a kit from me and cannot get it to work, please let me know. I have a solution. Use zip-ties where I have rubber tube mating with plastic tubing. This will eliminate a vacuum leak preventing cruise control from working. Why am I issuing this? Well I was having issues with my new 4wd set up and decided to use zip ties on the hoses to prevent them from slipping off and causing issues. This worked for me pretty well and I feel it should work well for my kits if I sent them out with plastic tubing mated to the rubber hoses. I will be locking this but please PM me if youre having any issues and I can happily send some zip ties along as I have a metric ton.

I have a few of these if you want a couple.

All good. Wish those were factory, but they weren’t.

Not factory. A special 100 MJ deal with archer bros and a California dealer. Also not. A custom thing as well.

Mopar. Haven’t had an issue with either one. That I have/had. The first one I think lasted me about 4 years before it gave up and the second one I’ve had for maybe about 2 now. Maybe 3.

I might! I’ll have to do some digging for ya and get back to ya.

I’m using the old 84-86 selec-trac switch. I imagine if you found an Eagle or an SJ with the same set up, you could use it the way you’d like.