eaglescout526

I may have one laying around that I can look for. It may be red in color if I remember right but I have a feeling it’s for tilt. I’ll look tomorrow.

I’d smell the gas and take a sample out and see if it’ll light the fumes before dropping in some octane boost.

Didnt it have the original radio?

Mine looks the same as yours. But the A-pillars were first in design then the MJ B-pillar.

The metal ones are the way to go. If that doesn’t solve the problem, suspect corrosion in the front lamp harness connector.

We’re they replaced with the same style socket? I only ask this cause those sockets suck. They’re ford sockets and there’s a metal tab in that socket that is prone to just rusting away and failing all together. The early 84-86 and later 91-96 metal sockets are much better.

Hold on before you go crazy. Are your front sockets plastic or metal?

You’d be surprised what Chrysler kept the same after the AMC acquisition.

Ground for taillights is behind the drivers side tail light assembly. If that was an issue which it might, drivability would be questionable as the fuel pump is grounded there too.

How odd. That T at the bottom of the bolt just clip into a recess in the tray for me. I figured all were the same but maybe not.

I thought the battery tray has clips that hold the ends in place? At least mine does.

A screw went there to hold the top of the B-pillar steady. All those plugs are for is to hide the interior screw heads to clean up the look of the interior and not make it look like the screws to hold them in we’re an after thought. do your A-pillars not have the same covers over the screws?

I split your post into a new one so we aren’t performing necromancy on old topics. Chances are, the thread you found can help you, but most those members in that thread are inactive.

You are one lucky SOB that that didnt get any oxygen to combust and lose you and a truck. Good catch!

If I had a 4.0 with the ballast. I wouldn’t run it it all. Bypass it and be done with that thing. All it did was quiet down the fuel pump for the XJ.

Looks like an E-fan relay. Probably for AC.

Man no AC on the 4cyl. That ain’t gonna fetch that price without AC.

Landau black works just as well if not a dead ringer for the OEM black. I say run the Waggy header. Theyre fun and unique but the side markers are impossible to find.

Welcome. If they dont know how to pull it up, tell them to click on your VIN in the lower left hand corner of the screen and the build sheet, date and body code will come up.

Yes. All mopar parts employees have access to that program. It is the digital parts catalog. That’s how JMO and I were able to provide the build sheets that had the correct info. Not sure why the two don’t talk to each other on the build sheets but that’s how it is.

Oh yeah. That’s easy to correct. You need the build sheet from the starparts program. Not dealerconnect.

Dammit. I used to know this one. I honestly have not really noticed the thing function. I can speculate it’s something similar to carb set ups where it’ll hit a certain temp and open up to allow vacuum to pass through. Like how it’s lined up to the preheater hose. Course I live in the desert so it’s probably always open haha. Or closed. How ever it functions. I know the 4.0L air box has the same exact thing in the top of its lid. Let me do some digging in my literature and see what I can report back with.

I got a rock. Not the joke fad from the 90's but a tortoise.

Both the grey and the one at the HVAC panel that controls your fan speed. They are the same wire harness and checking to make sure the wire isnt melted from the blower switch to the resistor is free of resistance. I figured the resistor is good only because you replaced it with no change. Usually its obvious when a resistor blows on ours.

Definitely might want to check the connector at the switch and make sure the switch isnt gunked up. And make sure there isnt resistance across the resistor connector to the switch connector.