eaglescout526

I’d love to hoard such. I try to let others get the opportunity first before I take up anyone in their offer.

Hmmmm. That could be an issue.

….of course…thanks AMC. Now I want to hunt a 231 case end and see if that will bolt to the 207 and would help eliminate problems with lifts while using a 207

Yeah the Bendix belts are very rebuildable. The AMC ones are not and are very fragile.

Wait, will such bolt to a 207? Might be a worthwhile upgrade since the 207 speedo gear is also unique to the 207.

Nope. Completely different animal. On the 228/9 you can as that carried over to everything else but the 207 is unique for some odd reason.

Ahhh. Yup the 207 will do it.

AMC switched in 87 to an adjustable. If you’re good with electronics you could in theory adjust the older style which I would love to know how to do in the event I need to use an older tech from a 6cyl. Same goes for the speedo connector. interesting you weren’t able to use your speedo cable on the AX15 even though nothing changed for using the cable there unless you have a AX15 with the digital speedo sensor. When swapping from an 86 cluster to a 87-90, you’ll need a new speedo cable that will clip on to the new connection.

Finally got a tire on the spare and able to put this cover I got many many moons ago when I had my spare in the bed of my MJ. Now I really want to put the AMC logo with “Jeep” below the logo on the cover.

I enjoy treasure stories like this.

I just a bottom vent to direct air. On models with a center console, a different box would be there that gets connected to a plastic tube that’s guided under the console to blow air to the passengers.

My bad. I was slightly wrong. But what Eagle said is right. The rod for the brake master pushes on the switch itself.

Without literally sprinting to my truck to take a pic of such, the pedal bar needs to be in between that gap on the switch itself.

Honestly, there’s nothing wrong with such. If you work on a project to the point where it’s not fun, you’ll burn yourself out on it and end up getting rid of the project. So if anything, it’s more of taking a break on one and distracting yourself with another.

Holy schnikes!! It’s actually not on the brake pedal! Good catch Ωhm! Whitaker, looks like you simply need to remove it and get the pedal bar in between the switch.

It’s supposed to be a brown connector similar to the low level washer sensor connector.

Wait…did I really send you a harness with the correct plug for the switch missing? If so, holy shcnikes I am sorry. Also very important to line up the wires to the correct color.

Hmmm. That’s good. I know the old style brake switch isn’t exactly adjustable but I think it can be angled incorrectly.

Downgrading from power to manual? Interesting. There are ways to make your power windows better and faster. Manual regulators are nice yes but stupid rare. No one makes new ones, all the old ones that are approaching 40 are either getting replaced from years of abuse or age. If you find a doner with manual, then go for it. There’s two types of manual regulators. 1st gen is riveted to the door. 2nd is bolted to the door. A factory power door MJ is quite rare as others have said. Even the high trim MJs didn’t have such. Maybe power lock but not windows unless swapped from a 2-door. since we’re on the topic, has anyone ever screwed around with XJ rear window regulators and bent them to match the fronts?

You’re welcome! Thats an interesting issue. The white vac switch is only for dumping the vacuum from cruise control, that is adjustable and if it’s not adjusted right, cruise control won’t work at all. how badly faded are your tail lights? I’ve had someone tell me once that my tail lights weren’t working only to find that they were and the AZ sun was just washing them out.

You might be one of the few walking into uncharted territory with that one. I haven’t heard of many if at all of deleting the EGR on the 2.5L. Some say that deleting such helps an engine run better. I don’t think smell should be an issue unless your cat is failing.

What’s great is that EGR is a GM Rochester EGR so they can be found vs the 4.0L. Now a lot of guys usually delete the one for the 4.0, never have I seen anyone ask about the 2.5L. Now if you live in a state that doesn’t require emissions, you can remove it, the solenoid and vac harness for the EGR and be done.

I got cruise control to work. Just need to tune it to get it dialed in. Got AC working too. Turns out a Schrader valves gasket was bad. As soon as I pulled it out, there was a piece of rubber that was supposed to help seal the system but failed. So I put in the Free Zone, no leaks, temp gets down to about 45*, not a performer but better than sourcing and converting to 134. Curious as to how it will handle in the summer. Should see 50* which will be better than nothing. I imagine driving around will make it colder as it cools off the condenser more.

That still the 2.5L harness? If so, there is some stuff in there that runs to the gauges. And I have an 86 wiring manual that I can use to help you identify which one is which. 4wd light switch for the cluster

Not entirely true. I’ve got a few manuals that cover the engine and fuel system.