eaglescout526

Ground out the connector at either sender. It will illuminate on the cluster. If not. Bulb could be bad. Or swap to a gauge cluster and get sensors for the two.

What kind of staples did you use for this?

Lol!!!! Really the only place for the later smooth bezels.

Yes. Lol.

Well it sort of is a wire. Grey? Now I dont know. It should be a plastic, clear for non tilt and tan/white for tilt with copper contacts in the plastic housing that when the key is put in, the plastic in the cylinder will push on that contact to make the buzzer work when the door is open. Which leads me to the door switches.

Grounds, the door switches and the contact in the column come to mind for probable causes.

Dammit!! I hate people who value their own lives and neglect those around them. Sorry man....glad youre ok, but seeing the 21slot being toast makes me want to switch mine out just to save them

From someone doing a bench to bucket swap. Might be able to get away with finding GM or ford of the same era with the Bendix buckles. But 86-87 will be your best bet for finding AMC buckles in tan

No. You can change to either AMC style or the Bendix buckles as both can be found in tan.

It all looks like original Renix/AMC parts. Early or later would be hard to tell but one thing, he didnt install a later compressor as it still mounts the Renix/AMC way and not the Chrysler HO way where the mounting bolts go down into the bracket. What part number is on that condenser?

So I installed a diode to rectify the back feeding issue. Worked like a charm. I also yanked out the fuel sending unit and found the float level to be on the fritz! So I swapped out the unit and got hell of a surprise to see I was low on gas! Haha. So I am gonna inspect that FSU and see why the hell its behaving like this.

I want to get back to this. @Eagle_SX4 I got the diode and installed it. Now everything acts normal. Even upon shut down it doesnt act like it wants to keep going. And my ipod doesnt constantly restart upon shut down or starting. But this didnt fix my fuel guage. HOWEVER! I yanked out the sending unit and found the float to be on the fritz! Well changed it and got one hell of a surprise to be low on gas! Hahaha. Thanks for the help!

On the topic of the C101. I found that in the heat it would liquify the crap in the connector and screw up my connections. Notably the O2. I cleaned and cleaned without really tearing it apart and my issue would go away for a bit but would return after a few days to a week. Then what I finally did was take an air gun from my air compressor and blew air into each socket for the terminal and blew the hardened gunk out to eliminate my issue of it turning to a grease like substance and ruining my good clean connection. So far so good. Now I haven’t done anything for moisture prevention as water feels nonexistent here and I probably should add something but I’ll get to it.

Everyone and I absolutely mean everyone, with an 87-90 MJ or XJ should replace those crappy plastic sockets with the 84-86/91-96 metal sockets to avoid any further issue with their blinkers, hazards and bulbs.

Check the switch in the door jamb itself. They corrode to where they wont conduct anymore and will need to be cleaned. That being said. Highly recommend cleaning and adding grounds if you have not done this yet. And while we're talking about your headlamp switch, if you havent put your headlamps on a relay harness yet, we all recommend you should as that will reduce the power load on the switch itself.

Huh. Of the few times I’ve been to Kent, I have never seen a single MJ.

I probably am not too far from you.

Yes they can.

Ive ultimately decided I am going to replace the cover.

We know Chrysler won’t. They could make more money selling resto parts for Jeeps than they could selling modern Jeeps.

Renault style. Cool.

Wait? That’s really not on here anywhere?? Huh. Well I’ll admit. I only followed that tightening pattern once and hated my life in that moment because of how much a PITA it is to get bolts two and three into the block.

We are back at it ladies and gents! I feel I made no progress today haha. So I got the passenger side cylinder head on. But then I started using my disc sander to clean up the timing cover where the water pump goes and am displeased with its current condition. All the while, it turns out that I needed to take it off the harmonic balancer, or what was left of it anyway. Turns out, ↓this is supposed to have a one inch width rubber wheel on this to act as the dampener. Which explains why the two bolts at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions are damaged. At least the crank shaft and internals are clean. But this ↓, worries me a little and make me think its not 62k on the odo, it might be 162k. But it ran and sounded fine so I am gonna send it. Original delco pump that still works. AMC has nothin on this beefy balancer. And lastly, I want yalls opinion. Would you get a new cover or use the same? I have no problem running it with the pits. Its the mating surface that has me worried. Not much of a bottom mating surface left to get a good seal in my opinion. Now I am looking to pillage some 350 heads and might put them on, dont know yet but they need to be rebuilt as well. These heads will get me more power and compression. And cooling wont be a problem with the OEM style 4 row radiator.

Yeahhhh I learned this back in 16… I wasn’t happy. Stupid cheap aftermarket crap.