eaglescout526

That hose looks pretty damn awful actually. That would cause the engine to run like trash and creating a rich condition cause its struggling to stay running. There should be a sock on the bottom of your pump like that XJ pump you have there. Luckily the socks interchange. What does the inside of the tank look like to really tarnish everything?

You can swap all the parts on the XJ assembly over. Ahhhh yes the 86 sending unit dilemma. So you can swap over parts like the float level and hose and wiring. You can not how ever swap the bigger pump to that unit. You can swap the smaller pump to the bigger one but not the other way around. I am pretty sure you cant as I had an issue where I had to figure out why my fuel level was reading funny on my XJ and it used that smaller unit. Then I ended up having an issue where the pump was dying on me and would only produce enough pressure to last me a 5 min drive. If that. Do you just need to swap the hose over?

IAT doesnt look too bad actually. Better shape that most. That cage is usually melted off. To find the CTS, put your finger where the IAT sits, go towards the drivers fender and youll find the CTS bolted into the manifold on the side. That O2 doesnt look happy, or good. Looks a little burnt. Glad ya checked the timing for giggles and its ok.

Its this kind of crap that irritates me when selling through ebay. Yeah its a huge audience but then you get the scum that abuse the policy like walmarts return policy. Then again retail had that coming...anywho I could go on a huge tangent but thats a pub post for another day.

Oooooo I didnt think of this but I can see there not being enough material left on the balancer to drive the pulleys.

Wow....this is why I have all my sales final. Course ebay has a crappy seller protection in place so the customer can rob you regardless.

It’s Chrysler recycling codes on dealerconnect. They’re not as accurate as the build sheet in starparts but JMO hasn’t been around in a bit and I still don’t work at a Chrysler dealer so yeah.

Haha of course and merry early Christmas to you as well. I once heard from a YouTuber, if you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong. Hmmmm. I dont know if you have been to this website but a very good read. https://4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-tuning-and-troubleshooting-the-2-5l-jeep-tbi-four/ The IAC and CTS basically are more for timing and fuel flow which in a sense if it’s dumping fuel would be fuel flow. Did we ever talk about the EGR? As far as brand goes, It’s a crap shoot. I know O2’s we’re made by autolite for AMC. MAPs were GM, injector probably is GM too. As for the others, we’ll it’s a crap shoot. ohhhhh. I don’t like the sound of that history. Hmmmm well ok then.

Wait. Another rare as hens teeth 2.5L with the AW4?

Wha? Why? I take offense to this haha. Its not a bad engine and dont let all those 4.0L lovers tell you to swap because its "gutless" and "slow". 4.0L is the same exact way. But the 4.0L was never raced. Only broke a land speed record.

How bad does it look? As long as it has the bulb on the end of it, it should be fine. Should test it to see if it Ωhms out to spec on both cold and hot air. Same with CTS. Look at the O2 as well. Do you happen to have a REM? Does the heater relay for the O2 work? I am not aware of a conversion for the 2.5L. There is one for the 4.0L. BUT! The two sensors are different in thread size. 2.5L looks smaller than the 4.0 and I have a 4.0L one thats been converted. I also have heard of a relocation for the IAT as well. This kind of issue would drive me mad. Are all vac lines verified to be good and crack free? While its running, have you looked at the spray pattern of the injector? Maybe the seals around the injector are bad and causing it to leak more fuel in and its running rich and like garbage because of such. Do you know how long it has been since that MJ ran and drove before your ownership? I went and did some homework on your MJ just to get caught up on what were gonna deal with.

The 3 piece and one piece should be the same. I haven’t had both glass in my possession to confirm but it shouldn’t be much different from each other. Can’t imagine AMC spending that much money to have two different sized glass for one hole. That being said I do have two of those weatherstrips/gaskets.

Someone on here was fixing these, most the time the internals corrode or fail. Did your yard have any ZJs?

No, as far as I have seen, the 84-86 masters have had that style where it was a cap over the reservoir.

So according to my 84-85 parts book, the 0068 is for the 84 all engines and 85 4cyl 1163 is for the 85 diesel and GM 6. Then in 86 the 1163 is for all engines. Your call, didnt see a difference according to either book.

2.5L didnt get one with an AC delete. Unless the OP has something like my 84 where its an aftermarket set up with an idler.

Like belt isn’t spinning at all? Sounds like it’s slipped off the harmonic balancer.

The only difference I can speculate is one is just an 84-85 XJ part number and the other is the 86 XJ/MJ combo. But I don’t know for certain.

I honestly don’t see much of a difference at all.

I would definitely try to go OEM. Used or new.

12 years is alot of MJ catchin up to do.

Intermittent pump, ground or relay. Even though the ECU does bypass the relay still wouldn’t hurt to check that.

It’s brake fluid and it’s pretty easy. Main goal is to have all the air out and any fittings that could let air in addressed and sealed. You could, might be more of a pain than taking it out. You have the easier set up where the bolts are sideways vs the later where it’s an over under set up. In my opinion, yes. But seeing how yours is the 84-86 style, i dont know who the OEM manufacture is for that one so this is up to you. Me personally I’d like to just inspect it and see what your up against. Worse comes to worse you get it apart and the bore is pitted to where it’s no longer gonna seal properly, then you’ll get a new one. I think I’ve got one or two of that master cylinder style from the PO of my XJ who went on this rampage to have a stiff clutch pedal.

Have you taken apart your master cylinder to investigate? I wouldn’t be surprised if the internals are rusting.

I’ve got a few cup assemblies that don’t have a bezel. It’s an easy swap out of the bezel. I’ll locate them this evening and send you a PM