eaglescout526

Holy schnikes!! It’s actually not on the brake pedal! Good catch Ωhm! Whitaker, looks like you simply need to remove it and get the pedal bar in between the switch.

It’s supposed to be a brown connector similar to the low level washer sensor connector.

Wait…did I really send you a harness with the correct plug for the switch missing? If so, holy shcnikes I am sorry. Also very important to line up the wires to the correct color.

Hmmm. That’s good. I know the old style brake switch isn’t exactly adjustable but I think it can be angled incorrectly.

Downgrading from power to manual? Interesting. There are ways to make your power windows better and faster. Manual regulators are nice yes but stupid rare. No one makes new ones, all the old ones that are approaching 40 are either getting replaced from years of abuse or age. If you find a doner with manual, then go for it. There’s two types of manual regulators. 1st gen is riveted to the door. 2nd is bolted to the door. A factory power door MJ is quite rare as others have said. Even the high trim MJs didn’t have such. Maybe power lock but not windows unless swapped from a 2-door. since we’re on the topic, has anyone ever screwed around with XJ rear window regulators and bent them to match the fronts?

You’re welcome! Thats an interesting issue. The white vac switch is only for dumping the vacuum from cruise control, that is adjustable and if it’s not adjusted right, cruise control won’t work at all. how badly faded are your tail lights? I’ve had someone tell me once that my tail lights weren’t working only to find that they were and the AZ sun was just washing them out.

You might be one of the few walking into uncharted territory with that one. I haven’t heard of many if at all of deleting the EGR on the 2.5L. Some say that deleting such helps an engine run better. I don’t think smell should be an issue unless your cat is failing.

What’s great is that EGR is a GM Rochester EGR so they can be found vs the 4.0L. Now a lot of guys usually delete the one for the 4.0, never have I seen anyone ask about the 2.5L. Now if you live in a state that doesn’t require emissions, you can remove it, the solenoid and vac harness for the EGR and be done.

I got cruise control to work. Just need to tune it to get it dialed in. Got AC working too. Turns out a Schrader valves gasket was bad. As soon as I pulled it out, there was a piece of rubber that was supposed to help seal the system but failed. So I put in the Free Zone, no leaks, temp gets down to about 45*, not a performer but better than sourcing and converting to 134. Curious as to how it will handle in the summer. Should see 50* which will be better than nothing. I imagine driving around will make it colder as it cools off the condenser more.

That still the 2.5L harness? If so, there is some stuff in there that runs to the gauges. And I have an 86 wiring manual that I can use to help you identify which one is which. 4wd light switch for the cluster

Not entirely true. I’ve got a few manuals that cover the engine and fuel system.

I don’t see entirely why not.

Huh. I learned something new today. I mean most people don’t go and say I should get my manifolds machined when they have their head off for rebuild. Not something one thinks about.

Holy crap! What did you do?! Haha. Honestly impressive.

Sounds about right. I’ve never bought a new one and just kept using my originals. So I see three options, new one from Chrysler fix your original or used. I almost wonder if HO guys have a problem but Renix may not.

What I encountered was fitment issues, bolt holes not lining up, exhaust leak and vac leak. On the XJ during my trial of getting the engine to run from the swap, the intake portion was wet as if fuel was leaking and that was a problem. originals. They need to go through an electrolysis bath to see what shape they are in though now what I think about it.

Yes that’s the gasket. I think the ship quantity is 2 of them but doesn’t hurt to have one extra. I am 100%. Save your less of a battle trying to get all the bolts in and holes lined up on the full manifold. Fun fact, there’s supposed to be a stud according to the parts catalog at the last manifold bolt. My 88 and 84 have not had them.

I have the part number at home for the separate intake gasket. AMC didn’t put a gasket on the exhaust and probably due to the same reason I keep having issues with the full gasket. There is the full gasket but it’s not something Chrysler ever made for the 2.5L. Im not saying dont use the full one since it’s free with the manifold but I’m just more informing ya of the issues I have had.

Looks like you have everything in order there. Hell I think I have a exhaust manifold laying around. And last I remember, Chrysler had maybe one or two left as NOS. But you got it all. I’d highly recommend ditching the gasket that comes with it and just get the intake gasket. I’ve had bad experiences with the full gasket not sealing or lining up right. But that’s just a recommendation. Also I like the vacuum idea of blowing air to find a leak….but I can see that blowing unwanted carbon and debris into the engine.

This is correct. The shift gate for the 4wd may not be the same from the later years. Course my understanding is all the consoles conform better around the carpet than the vinyl floor. My XJ is the same way with the full console and I’ve just happily ignored it.

Wait? My kenworth shift boot find? Haha that is timing. I’d like to add. I drove chunk today with that fix. No heat nor hot console.

So I did the wiper bushing repair today. Linkage is less loose now and shouldnt part where ever it wants. I also replaced the shift boot at the floor today. Not the one on the console but the body. I had tremendous amounts of heat coming through the console and I knew the boot was nonexistent but man was it like I had the heater on. Here they are side by side. Sure the screw holes dont line up but heres the best part, that base is rubber. Not metal with rubber like the old one. Might bite me in the butt later but we will see. New one on top of the old one. Perfect fit! So I took some screw drivers, lined up two holes and drilled the rest Installed. Doesnt even look out of place really. And console back on. No issues shifting or anything. Now I should have no heat coming through anymore. And if youre wondering: Theres the part number. Its for a Kenworth big rig.

We will have to suspect theres a break in the wire from the diag connectors or a break from ECU to ISA. Or worst case, the ECU circuit that controls the ISA is no longer able to function. I.E. a resistor blew.

Hmmmm that’s really odd. I wonder if something internal to the latch broke. This is hell of a pickle to be in. Button on the outside will almost always push in unless there is binding. And you have tried both pushing the button outside and pulling open the door and pulling the handle inside to push the door open? Maybe need a sacrificial..I mean a helper on the outside to push the button on the handle while you kick the door to force it open. I feel it should free up with some force so long nothing is binding and where all the rods connect move.

Just making sure :) Since you pulled off the door panel and what not, are any of the clips broken? Rods not hooked to where they need to to get it open? Does anything move freely on the latch itself? All the linkage or is something binding too?