eaglescout526

I don’t see entirely why not.

Huh. I learned something new today. I mean most people don’t go and say I should get my manifolds machined when they have their head off for rebuild. Not something one thinks about.

Holy crap! What did you do?! Haha. Honestly impressive.

Sounds about right. I’ve never bought a new one and just kept using my originals. So I see three options, new one from Chrysler fix your original or used. I almost wonder if HO guys have a problem but Renix may not.

What I encountered was fitment issues, bolt holes not lining up, exhaust leak and vac leak. On the XJ during my trial of getting the engine to run from the swap, the intake portion was wet as if fuel was leaking and that was a problem. originals. They need to go through an electrolysis bath to see what shape they are in though now what I think about it.

Yes that’s the gasket. I think the ship quantity is 2 of them but doesn’t hurt to have one extra. I am 100%. Save your less of a battle trying to get all the bolts in and holes lined up on the full manifold. Fun fact, there’s supposed to be a stud according to the parts catalog at the last manifold bolt. My 88 and 84 have not had them.

I have the part number at home for the separate intake gasket. AMC didn’t put a gasket on the exhaust and probably due to the same reason I keep having issues with the full gasket. There is the full gasket but it’s not something Chrysler ever made for the 2.5L. Im not saying dont use the full one since it’s free with the manifold but I’m just more informing ya of the issues I have had.

Looks like you have everything in order there. Hell I think I have a exhaust manifold laying around. And last I remember, Chrysler had maybe one or two left as NOS. But you got it all. I’d highly recommend ditching the gasket that comes with it and just get the intake gasket. I’ve had bad experiences with the full gasket not sealing or lining up right. But that’s just a recommendation. Also I like the vacuum idea of blowing air to find a leak….but I can see that blowing unwanted carbon and debris into the engine.

This is correct. The shift gate for the 4wd may not be the same from the later years. Course my understanding is all the consoles conform better around the carpet than the vinyl floor. My XJ is the same way with the full console and I’ve just happily ignored it.

Wait? My kenworth shift boot find? Haha that is timing. I’d like to add. I drove chunk today with that fix. No heat nor hot console.

So I did the wiper bushing repair today. Linkage is less loose now and shouldnt part where ever it wants. I also replaced the shift boot at the floor today. Not the one on the console but the body. I had tremendous amounts of heat coming through the console and I knew the boot was nonexistent but man was it like I had the heater on. Here they are side by side. Sure the screw holes dont line up but heres the best part, that base is rubber. Not metal with rubber like the old one. Might bite me in the butt later but we will see. New one on top of the old one. Perfect fit! So I took some screw drivers, lined up two holes and drilled the rest Installed. Doesnt even look out of place really. And console back on. No issues shifting or anything. Now I should have no heat coming through anymore. And if youre wondering: Theres the part number. Its for a Kenworth big rig.

We will have to suspect theres a break in the wire from the diag connectors or a break from ECU to ISA. Or worst case, the ECU circuit that controls the ISA is no longer able to function. I.E. a resistor blew.

Hmmmm that’s really odd. I wonder if something internal to the latch broke. This is hell of a pickle to be in. Button on the outside will almost always push in unless there is binding. And you have tried both pushing the button outside and pulling open the door and pulling the handle inside to push the door open? Maybe need a sacrificial..I mean a helper on the outside to push the button on the handle while you kick the door to force it open. I feel it should free up with some force so long nothing is binding and where all the rods connect move.

Just making sure :) Since you pulled off the door panel and what not, are any of the clips broken? Rods not hooked to where they need to to get it open? Does anything move freely on the latch itself? All the linkage or is something binding too?

Lets see, where to begin. I spent a few hours collectively trying to figure out my fuel gauge issue. Same issue with another gauge, same issue with a later cluster but a little less sensitive. I added a ground thinking that was part of the issue and it wasnt. So I am now looking at the sender being an issue which will be incredibly odd but I shall see. Luckily I have a couple sending units to goof with and I plugged it in place of the one in the tank, recreated the sloshing effect and didnt have the issue on the gauge. I worry that I may end up wasting my time on chasing this bizarre issue. I even tested the current sending unit outside of the tank but I didnt account for any sloshing or anything like that so it could be busted in a weird way. Just 84/Renix things. Still have some stuff to do like the wiper bushings, oil change, cruise and AC. Gonna try that free zone stuff I acquired a while back. I also got this done: Whats different? Well I made some custom brackets to get it in place. Thanks to some examples of this radio for the XJ on ebay, I was able to copy the brackets to a degree and get this radio in place correctly. Im pretty proud of the few hours I spend cutting and designing the brackets. Now it wont flop around or move with the XJ/MJ specific radio adapter bracket.

It’s not locked right?

An interesting dynamic indeed. Course I don’t think the bronco II was a great name which probably didn’t help to sell it.

Ahhh my XJs direct competitor

If you know someone tossing out a set of washer and dryer, that’s great cheap floor pan metal that’s already treated to fight rust.

Indeed I am! Got all three palms. And then aged out haha.

Surprise it didnt turn into a DeLorean for the time traveling that has happened here haha. Well done finding the post for this MJ.

22?! Ive only owned 5 automobiles.

It should. The vac harness didn’t change from 87-96 with that control deck.

Ok did some more digging. I think I know why there is such an Ωhm difference on harness vs sending unit. Looks like beginning in 86 the cluster became known as "type 2" which has a solid state module for the fuel gauge. Probably thus resulting it working in conjunction with the new FSU vs the old one being just the float and not having a pump. So to probably fix my issue would be to swap to a 86 blue cluster and I shouldnt have any issue with the reading of the fuel level. Now the type 1's have a white housing, blue film to dim the lights and the fuel gauge has a printed paper circuit with resistors on it.

My thought too. When I get that resistor, I hope that solves the problem. While doing what Eagle_SX4 suggested I found something very very interesting. I didnt even actually start it up I just tested the sending unit first. It reads true at 75Ωs right now for an almost full tank. Connect it to the harness and that is instantly cut in half to 40Ωs. Now probing the two wires that B and C on the connector to the chassis side, I read .006VDC I went and added a ground from the fuel filter mount to the SU. No change. Harness side reads 57Ωs. Plug the two together and you have 40Ωs when reading the full tank. So I can only suspect one thing, 84-86 clusters may not be as plug n play as we may think with Renix. Im going to look in the 86 manual of the cluster and see. But that residual voltage is concerning. I should take a pic of the 84-86 style fuel gauge back side.