boxyjeep

Haha, I haven’t road tested it yet, so results are still pending. That said, the pedal feel is much more solid after bleeding. This is the guide I followed for the rear prop valve delete (obviously modifying for the Wilwood valve).

Just did this on my truck and went with a Wilwood prop valve and WJ booster/master. Thanks for the guide!

I just wrapped up my brake upgrade. I installed new front rotors and calipers, stainless steel lines, and upgraded the brake booster and master cylinder to a WJ model. I also ditched the rear load-sensing valve and installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I haven't taken it out yet, but pretty happy with the brake feel after bleeding the system. New master cylinder, booster, and prop valve installed: Before and after boosters (WJ on left): New rotors, calipers and SS brake lines: I didn't replace anything in the rear other than pulling out the load-sensing valve and installing a longer stainless steel brake line. I may do a disc conversion at some point, but for now this should be fine.

I kept the Brown Dog mounts (frame side). I purchased the engine-side mounts, but didn't end up using them. The welds weren't amazing and I couldn't justify ~$350 for that, so I returned them. The frame side mounts are still doing well, although the rubber bushing is definitely a bit rough.

Awesome build. The theme is SRT, so hopefully it's getting an SRT engine....

Need some video with sound of it driving.

I've seen that one for sale for awhile. Pretty beat, but it is an elusive '92 with short bed and inline-6. Clean it up and do a 4wd conversion and you're good...

Didn’t get a chance to take any pics, but you can kind of see it at the end of the row ~10:50 in this video. They have the show every week, so I’ll be sure to take some pictures the next time I’m there.

Decided to take it out this past weekend to a local car show in Orange County, CA (South OC Cars and Coffee in San Clemente, CA - https://www.southoccarsandcoffee.com/). This is a pretty busy show that takes place every Saturday morning and I was surprised to have quite a few people interested in the truck and asking questions (despite this being an event with a ton of supercars). Unfortunately, when I got home I discovered that the serpentine belt jumped a tooth on the harmonic balancer. It looks like it's being caused by PS pump being misaligned--either the pulley is starting to come off the shaft or it isn't tightened down all the way. Also discovered that the 22lb injectors are insufficient. After warming up, the truck would frequently go into a lean condition (per REM). I bought a set of 24lb units and should have them this week. I'm planning to address the injectors, brakes, and pulley this weekend. Slowly making progress towards improved drivability.

Thanks for posting this. I switched over to all LED bulbs and used 50-ohm resistors inline for it to work. That said, the hazards don't work. I'll order the flasher and see if that helps.

Not something I would cheap out on. Go with either RC or RE. The other brand is a no-name Chinese clone. Likely with cheaper metal and weld quality. Alternatively--spend the time and money now on a long arm kit.

Very interested in this. I just installed an ATK 4.6L stroker and have been trying to find the right size injectors with a frequent lean condition. I wonder if a problematic O2 sensor could be the issue.

Awesome build. How are you using the REM to trigger the electric fan?

There is a chart online for control arm lengths at various lift heights to meet the stock caster. Keep in mind that you also have to balance front driveshaft pinion angle.

I had issues with them when I bought a 7120 head back in mid 2020. They didn't fully drill/tap the temp sensor hole in the back of the cylinder head. I called them up and they wanted me to drill the hole out deeper. I told them that was BS for something that should be ready to bolt in and they gave me a hard time about a replacement. I think they likely have too much business now to worry about customer service and customer happiness. Would suggest looking elsewhere.

Bumpers have Rigid LED pods and shackles attached. Everything all installed: So now the truck is 99% complete on the exterior. I still need to re-attach the drip rail covers, but otherwise the exterior is done. Outstanding items to address: Brakes are shot. This is more evident with the increased power/speed from the stroker engine. Will be installing WJ booster/master cylinder and Wilwood proportioning valve, along with rear load sensing valve delete. Need to connect the transmission brake switch--currently disconnected. Need to pass smog and get it registered in CA. Address a handful of small electrical issues inside the truck--parking lights don't work, power locks, etc. Future mods: "Low" SOA in rear--looking to net ~5-6" lift. Will match the front with XJ kit. Install a set of newer Cherokee heated/power leather seats (in my garage--need to fab up some brackets). Build a new non-disconnect HP D30 with WJ brakes/steering. Regear and install front locker. New 33" tires on slightly wider wheels. Will not be going beyond 33" or doing any fender cutting.

Wrapping up the tailgate: Before: Decal installed (from jeepsticker.com): New black painted handle installed: Also, this is not the original tailgate from the truck. I bought this from a CJ enthusiast in Long Island NY who got it from a friend. It was from a white 91-92 HO MJ and in absolutely pristine condition. I paid too much for it, but couldn't pass it up as my tailgate had a nice convex shape to it... My original tailgate--saved to mount to the wall in the garage at some point:

Now that the truck was running relatively well, I wanted to wrap up the exterior. I had a spray-in bedliner installed. Before: After: I also decided to sell off the JCR front winch bumper and winch. While I do intend to take this truck offroading a bit, I hope to never get stuck or go it alone. Also, this will be on the road 99% of the time and I thought it looked a bit gaudy. Instead, I bought an XJ/MJ JCR Crusader front bumper to go with the rear MJ bumper. Sanded and primed. Also bondo'ed up the logos to keep a sleek look: I originally went with a Rustoleum black semi-gloss epoxy paint, but could never get the finish to look right. Ended up sanding a bit to get it looking better and finally gave up and went with Rustoleum Hammered black paint. I used this before for the grey bumpers and liked the finish. Sanded (again): After: Also decided to paint the grill insert black. My painter had painted it all the same color as the body. Also pulled off the tailgate handle and hardware to remove paint. The supports are aluminum and not painted from the factory (and easily chip). The handle should be black. Original: Paint stripper: Had to do a handful of coats of this. The product is not very good anymore due to low VOC regulations.

Time for an update as a lot has changed since my last post. I moved back out to SoCal (southern Orange County) and immediately ordered a new crate stroker from ATK. While Golen and other vendors have a better reputation, the ~$3k price tag and warranty for the ATK unit just made sense. Unfortunately, there was a ~2-3 month backlog, so after ordering the engine in late November, the truck sat while I wrapped up some minor projects with it. The truck will be getting smogged and registered in CA. Unfortunately, this requires VIN and emissions stickers (which I removed and discarded when I had the truck painted). I created these in Photoshop/Excel and had a sticker shop print them. The bar codes scan and all info is valid. Also ordered some new tail light lenses from Key Parts and installed them on my existing housings. My old lenses were severely faded. Also upgraded to LED bulbs. After that, the truck went off to get the new engine installed. This took about 3 weeks and ran into a few issues--the shop misaligned the intake manifold and broke a few brackets/bolts that were painful to track down. After getting it back, there were a few things I had to adjust. It was also clear that the 19 lb injectors were too small. If you ever have the problem where the PS bracket won't line up with the water pump, it's because the intake manifold isn't fully seated on the dowel pins. It also is likely that your intake was cracked because of this.

No. You would need to swap over a ton of the electrical system for this to work. While possible, it will take significantly longer than just pulling your engine harness and fixing the issue. Use the 88 Electrical Manual that someone linked above.

There is a company called "Key Parts" that makes replacement lenses (about $185 for a pair). They are brand new and recently manufactured. The downfall is that you have to use your old housings and remove the cracked lens. If you don't have good housings, eBay or some of the FB Comanche groups is your best bet. Lowest I typically see if ~$200 for a usable (but not mint) pair.

Nice! I just replaced the lenses in my truck with new ones from Key Parts. Was planning to do a write-up, but it looks like you beat me to it. Looking good :-)

Wondering the same thing--I have "high" knock in my truck. That document that Ohm shared shows between 10-100 at 2500 RPM. Does that sound right and does it correlate to the reading from the REM?

Ditch the valence. You’ll thank me later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck. The only way to find the connectors for the through-firewall harness is from another one. Very tough to find those pins anywhere online. Everything else is viable though.