boxyjeep

The exhaust manifold is aftermarket but built to OE specs. I was also concerned about thickness differences between the intake and exhaust, so I measured them and found they were the same. This is still holding steady after re-torquing the manifold bolts to 25 ft/lbs in proper order.

Re-torqued the bolts and it appears to not be leaking. Will keep an eye on it.

Forgot to mention--I replaced these when I replaced the exhaust manifold. No leaks. They are definitely a bit noisy, but there is no fuel leaking and the vacuum leak doesn't appear to be coming from them. There is a bit of air movement from the cooling fan. May try with the match (wish me luck--don't want to burn the garage down).

Will be checking that once I get the stethoscope. I just removed the intake manifold heat shield to make things easier to see, but nothing notable. Also checked from underneath using mirror and from the ground, but couldn't see anything significant.

Forgot to mention, tried that as well but didn't see anything noticeable (will get a video on this). The exhaust/intake gasket was my first thought since I used the cheaper one that was included with the new exhaust manifold, so I replaced it with a good Fel-Pro unit and sprayed both sides with Permatex High-Temp Copper spray (but still had the same issue).

I've been trying to get my '88 MJ running right, but continue to experience a rough idle and what sounds like an intake leak somewhere around the #4 cylinder. So far, I've replaced: Exhaust manifold & gasket (replaced gasket twice) Throttle body cleaned, gasket replaced, MAP connector tapped & replaced Valve cover gasket Ensured all manifold bolts are properly tightened in correct order Checked head surface for approximate flatness using straightedge I'm about to pull my hair out on this one. I didn't see any obvious issues or cracks when I took the manifolds off the last time. I just pulled the heat shield off in order to get a better look, but still don't see any visible cracks or other issues. I ordered a mechanics stethoscope and will be using that to try to figure it out. Any ideas or suggestions would be super appreciated. Really hoping that the head isn't warped or cracked.

I don’t even know what to say. It sounds like your rear axle came loose, rotated, and pulled the slip hole (not spindle) out of your transfer case or transmission? Something is definitely screwed. We will need pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PM'ed you. Definitely want a set of these.

Thanks Cruiser. I did clean that when I had the front clip removed. Is there a specific terminal that you believe is not properly making contact?

Been going through the electrical system on my '88 MJ and fixing any problems, including rebuilding the fuse box and refreshing the grounds, but I have a strange issue with the front blinkers and emergency flashers. So far I've replaced the blinker switch in the steering column, replaced the corroded fuse box terminals, and replaced the sockets for the front parking lights/blinkers (somehow they were bad). The blinkers now work as you would expect until I try to use the emergency flashers. When I do that, they flash super fast and stay on most of the time. I think there may be some type of power back-feeding into the blinker system, but I'm not sure on how to fix that. I have the factory '88 electrical manual and used that for installing the new sockets and repairing the fuse box, but it doesn't have any guidance for something like this. Any advice?

Also dealing with this on a new-to-me '88 MJ that I got a month ago. It was death-wobble free until I replaced the motor and transmission mounts (don't ask me how that happened, it doesn't make sense to me either). I'm lifting the front around 3" and ended up getting Rusty's Heavy-Duty Steering conversion, Rough Country Track-bar and bracket, OEM uppers, and Rusty's fixed LCA. Haven't installed them yet, but am excited to do so. Will probably get JKS quick disconnections and new sway bar bushings at some point in the future, and possibly replace the ball joints when I rebuild/re-gear the front axle.

Don't sell it! https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/jeep-comanche-4x4/6656594873.html

You guys are making this even more difficult for me to decide on. Level it with spacers and run 31's, or 6" lift w/ SOA and 33's...

Got it now. Didn't realize that image was for XJ. In that case it looks like I'm close to stock height or possibly -1". I'm assuming 2-3" coils would balance things out? If I were to do SOA, what size coils would I need up front for a "level" truck?

Thanks, but I measured from the top of the rear axle to the bottom of the frame as outlined here and got 8". Wouldn't that be around 2" lift?

I just got a new-to-me '88 MJ and am debating on what route to take it. It's got a 4.0L, AW4, 4WD, w/ Dana 44 rear (with Trac-Lok) and the "offroad package" that includes a slight lift and skid-plates. After doing some measurements, the rear is about 20" from fender flare to hub center and 8" from axle to frame (which equates to around a 2-3" lift) and the front suspension is about 18" flare-to-hub for around .5 to 1" lift. The truck has no rust, but sat for a very long time in the CA heat and sun, so almost all plastic and rubber parts are totally shot. I've been focusing on fixing a bunch of electrical issues and getting it roadworthy, but the front suspension is totally shot. Almost all of the bushings are near completely gone, the steering is super floaty, and it has terrible death wobble above 25 MPH. The tires are also dry rotted and not safe IMO. I'm debating on whether to go with a rear SOA lift and ~6" front coils with the goal of running 32-33" tires and 4.56 gears, or to keep it mild and just level the front with 3" coils and run some 31's with stock gearing, etc. I'm going to need a new track-bar, drag-link, control arm bushings, so I'm planning on just upgrading all of those, so the cost would be negligible between the 3 or 6" lift options, but I would need to decide between the extended track-bar bracket, drop pitman arm, control arm lengths, etc. depending on what height I go with. I'm thinking if I go SOA, I can save a bit of money by buying JK Rubicon take-off wheels/tires and just getting the 4.5-to-5" adapters, which would set me back around $600 total based on current prices. If I go with 31's, I would get new tires and probably new 15x8" wheels, which would run over $1000. I guess I'm asking what you guys would recommend. Keep it mild or spend slightly more money to get to 6" lift w/ 33's.

This is absolutely amazing. Any reason why you didn't get the whole truck repainted?

Awesome build. Are you interested in selling it for the right price?