boxyjeep

Build or repair your own. That's what I'm doing.

Unbelievable work. Looks amazing.

Thanks--this is helpful.

It looks like the O2 sensor heater is powered from terminal 87A on the relay, which should be powered from terminal 30 when terminal 85 is NOT grounded by the ECU and terminal 86 is powered by fuel pump relay. Is this correct? If so, I'm trying to understand what terminal 87's purpose would be (eventually connects to splice "A"). I'm in the process of re-wiring my engine harness and everything is going well, except for trying to figure out this relay's behavior.

You can buy the terminals from DelCity and just pull the old, solder on the new ones, and replace them. Had to do this on my truck. Also search for the 88 electrical manual to know what should connect where.

Refer to the wiring diagrams in the '88 electrical manual. You should be able to find it online if you search.

On a similar topic, does anyone know where to get replacement firewall grommets? I pulled my Cruise Control and need to seal that hole, and also my speedo cable grommet is shot.

Sold a set in rough shape with tires for $50. Not worth much unless they are pristine.

Aren't they all "Street Comanches"?

Wow, that's great. I'm super surprised the one-wire tach signal worked correctly.

How will you get the gauges to work, specifically the tach?

I kept the same bracket. I also had a floor shifter bracket to compare, and they appeared the same to me. What year shifter cable are you swapping in?

I bought the Mushimoto, but haven't installed it yet. However, it is amazing. Really really high quality and all aluminum. If it ever gets damaged, it would be pretty easy for a local rad shop to fix. It's also massive.

Willing to customize these and print out the vinyl for folks for a fee? Would like to get two--one with "Fog Lights", "Aux Fan", and the other with "Ext Idle", and "Front Locker". Let me know.

Could this be printed on paper and glued to the transparent cover?

Awesome stuff. Thank you!

Yeah, that makes sense. Plus the locksmith can now sell you twice as many keys ;-)

Just took a look at my two original keys side-by-side. Looks like the door key had a blank spot closest to the key ring end. You could probably remove this tumbler from your ignition and key tumblers 1-5 to match.

I swapped in a 91+ column with the newer "Chrysler" key that matches the newer door keys. Sorry, should have mentioned that. To add to this, you could likely remove the 6th tumbler from your ignition cylinder to match your door cylinders.

I got a bunch of cylinders from the junkyard and am going to key them all to match my ignition cylinder. Re-keying shouldn't be too tough.

I'm actually in the process of doing this myself on my '88 Comanche and using a fuse box/PDC from an early Grand Cherokee. There's a lot of detractors here, unsurprisingly, but this will be worthwhile when I'm finished. I've been able to reduce the harness down significantly and re-route most of it along the firewall (and shorten wires where possible). By doing this I've eliminated the harness that runs around the front cross member, the fusible links, all the weird connectors on the passenger side, the crappy relay bracket, etc. I'll be using fuses for all powered relays, as well as the always-hot circuits and downstream components. One issue with the stock Renix wiring is the huge amount of splices that are wrapped with duct tape. I'll be eliminating most of these and re-routing individual components back to individual fuses. Also, replacing any wiring with appropriately-gauged wire. Here is a write-up for someone else that did this: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-88-comanche-886068/index27.html I'll be sure to add some pictures once my project is done.

Take a look at the other spots that typically have the VIN. There should be a tag under the hood, as well as the last 6 digits on the front of the front crossmember.

New cable is $20. Just get it and replace it. Be prepared--it's a b*@ch to swap it out.

That's a pretty good price if it includes everything pictured. Most of those seals are $20+ each on other sites.

I spent some time testing and debugging this and don't remember exactly how or why, but this works well. There are two wires that go to the overhead module that have a constant 12v current, except for when lock/unlock is triggered. Jumping those two gives power to the appropriate wire at the right time.