boxyjeep

Yeah, I didn't have a leakdown test kit at the time, but should have started there. Will always be doing a compression and leakdown test on any new engines I get. From my initial seat of the pants testing, the HO head was well worth it. The truck feels completely woken up. I also plan to swap in a HO horseshoe intake and TB at some point soon, which should bring some additional improvements.

Thought you guys might want an update on this, since it seems like rough idle on Renix common problem. After fiddling with a variety of potential causes over the past year and using a REM to verify all sensors were good (I did replace the O2 sensor as recommended above), I finally ended up replacing the cylinder head. This solved the issue and it was clear upon removal that the old head had problems. The combustion chambers were rusty and I doubt the valves were sealing very well. Gasket didn't look too bad, but it was also leaking oil out of the passenger side of the block. I couldn't see any obvious cracks or warping, but I'm sure it wasn't true. Parts Replaced: IAC O2 Sensor Coolant sensor Knock Sensor Complete exhaust: manifold, cat, muffler Intake/exhaust gasket Injectors, Plugs & Wires, Distributor Timing chain (checked for tightness, not replaced) All of these parts incrementally improved how it ran, but never really fixed it. The PS pump would also constantly whine because the engine didn't have enough low RPM power to spin it fast enough. Moral of the story is to pull the cylinder head on any older trucks that aren't running well. Even if it is good, you'll also be able to check the cylinder walls, head gasket, etc, and verify everything looks good (and I'd suggest upgrading to a HO 7120 or 0630 head at the same time...).

Been following this build for a long time and am super impressed at how it's been going. Going to need more videos of that engine and some crazy burnouts.

Pics? How did this happen? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, thought you meant 2.8. I would assume the 2.5 would be the same throughout the years.

You would probably have luck finding the front portion from a Blazer or equivalent truck with the same engine and then modifying. Do you just need headers-->cat?

Spring perches from an XJ are about .5" to 1" off. You would need to re-weld them. Best bet is to grab an older Explorer 8.8. It has disc brakes, improved strength, no carrier break, and plenty of factory gearing/LSD options.

See above

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Hey! That's the same thing I'm doing. Except no extra harness. I'll try to attach some pics. I used a PDC/relay box from a Grand Cherokee.

What's wrong with your current harness? A lot of times it's easier to repair.

Any interest in making 97+ style body side moldings that would fit the MJ? Or 97+ rear flares?

Build or repair your own. That's what I'm doing.

Unbelievable work. Looks amazing.

Thanks--this is helpful.

It looks like the O2 sensor heater is powered from terminal 87A on the relay, which should be powered from terminal 30 when terminal 85 is NOT grounded by the ECU and terminal 86 is powered by fuel pump relay. Is this correct? If so, I'm trying to understand what terminal 87's purpose would be (eventually connects to splice "A"). I'm in the process of re-wiring my engine harness and everything is going well, except for trying to figure out this relay's behavior.

You can buy the terminals from DelCity and just pull the old, solder on the new ones, and replace them. Had to do this on my truck. Also search for the 88 electrical manual to know what should connect where.

Refer to the wiring diagrams in the '88 electrical manual. You should be able to find it online if you search.

On a similar topic, does anyone know where to get replacement firewall grommets? I pulled my Cruise Control and need to seal that hole, and also my speedo cable grommet is shot.

Sold a set in rough shape with tires for $50. Not worth much unless they are pristine.

Aren't they all "Street Comanches"?

Wow, that's great. I'm super surprised the one-wire tach signal worked correctly.

How will you get the gauges to work, specifically the tach?

I kept the same bracket. I also had a floor shifter bracket to compare, and they appeared the same to me. What year shifter cable are you swapping in?

I bought the Mushimoto, but haven't installed it yet. However, it is amazing. Really really high quality and all aluminum. If it ever gets damaged, it would be pretty easy for a local rad shop to fix. It's also massive.