boxyjeep

Any reason why a second LHD fan couldn’t be used instead? $340 is insane for one of these...

This thread is exactly why I will never be hacking up the rear of my MJ. Stock rear flares with minor modifications to the front flares and that’s it.

Quick update--got the new O2 sensor installed this morning and it's running about 10 times better. Now it's properly switching between LEAN/RICH, and CLOSED loop doesn't cause the near-stall condition like it did before. The O2 sensor reading is properly ranging between 0-5v on the MT2500 (as expected). I didn't have a chance to drive it or let it fully warm up, but the results were pretty immediate. The idle is still a bit low, but overall seems much improved. Thanks everyone for helping on this. Super pleased that this MJ that I bought a few months ago is finally starting to run better.

I believe I saw this posted on IG. Looks awesome! I'm also in Dana Point and drive by that spot pretty often.

Can you go more in depth on the 99 Intake swap into the Renix system? Is it just the TPS adapter and various vacuum hoses/adapters?

Haha well there we go. Should get the new sensor in a few days and be able to report back!

Yes, but I’ve heard varying reports that this is not an accurate value on the MT2500.

Thank you sir. Will let you know how it goes when I receive it. Went with the Bosch part from Amazon.

O2 sensor resistance is infinite when disconnected from the harness and measured across A/B. I'm assuming that confirms O2?

Ok, just tested the O2 sensor. B to C terminals read a solid 5v while running and A to B read around 14.3v with +-.05v while running. I believe that would point to a faulty O2 sensor. I’ll get one ordered.

The injector o-rings were replaced when I swapped out the exhaust manifold and gasket. The MT2500 is showing both STFT and LTFT at 128. It's just odd that the AFR never changes from LEAN the entire time the engine runs/starts, and only enters CLOSED loop for very short periods of time and quickly flips back to OPEN loop after running super rough. I don't have a fuel pressor gauge, but the fuel pump was recently replaced (this could be good or bad). The truck also had the fuel pump ballast resistor bypassed when I got it. I fixed that and it is now NOT bypassed.

Ok will check that.

I’ll have to check. I think it’s the pre-97 Jeep troubleshooting cartridge. I bought the bundle on eBay recently for a fraction of what it cost new 😁

It was my understanding that a vacuum or intake leak would cause a higher idle. I have replaced the intake/exhaust gasket and all bolts are properly tightened. It was my understanding that a vacuum or intake leak would cause a higher idle. I have replaced the intake/exhaust gasket and all bolts are properly tightened.

I've been troubleshooting this for awhile now and have done a lot of the suggestions on Cruiser54's site. The key issue is that the engine has a very rough/low idle and comes very close to stalling once warmed up when coming to a stop or not depressing the accelerator. I have a SnapOn MT2500, so I can see that when in OPEN LOOP mode it runs reasonably well. I've replaced the IAC, adjusted the TPS, replaced most of the vacuum lines, grounds, etc. Based on the Jeep Renix Fuel Injection manual, I believe the O2 sensor is likely bad (since it's running terribly in CLOSED LOOP mode and always in a LEAN condition), but wanted to get some advice here before I start swapping parts. I don't have an analog voltmeter to test the O2 sensor. Here's a recording of a cold start. Jump to 4:40 to see it under load and then almost stall.

Finally had a chance to mount up the brackets on a set of XJ buckets that I bought. These brackets are top-notch and fit really well. I was able to drill out the old brackets that came with the XJ seats and these mounted up like a charm. They also have an indentation for the spring mount which was great to see.

Poor thing. What is the "street" model?

A tad? :-|

I don't know why anyone keeps these. Take them off and dremel the flares to match. Looks much better IMO.

Make sure to grab those rear fender flares and the mini console. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just installed the ZJ steering box. Works great.

You probably have a leak in the hose. I also ran into a ton of issues when bleeding an internal slave a few years back. I succeeded by letting it "gravity bleed" for awhile by opening the bleeder and just letting it slowly drain while making sure it was topped off from above for awhile, and then switching to traditional bleeding afterwards.

Just realized he has a 5 speed, thought it was automatic at first. The AW4 went through a few changes over the years, so only certain years are interchangeable. But since it's manual, it wouldn't matter.

He would have to get the transmission from a close-year XJ, and wouldn’t be able to get the front clip, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As someone who recently bought an MJ in California after searching for 2 years, that’s a pretty good deal. Keep in mind that a 4wd conversion would require new TC, front axle, drive shafts AND transmission. If you’re planning the 97+ swap anyway, you’d be best to find a rear-end crash 97+ 4WD XJ on Copart and just swap everything over (including engine, harness, dash, etc). I’m not sure if you’d run into issues with CA smog doing the engine upgrade—it should be okay based on the laws, but your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk