boxyjeep

I’ll have to check. I think it’s the pre-97 Jeep troubleshooting cartridge. I bought the bundle on eBay recently for a fraction of what it cost new 😁

It was my understanding that a vacuum or intake leak would cause a higher idle. I have replaced the intake/exhaust gasket and all bolts are properly tightened. It was my understanding that a vacuum or intake leak would cause a higher idle. I have replaced the intake/exhaust gasket and all bolts are properly tightened.

I've been troubleshooting this for awhile now and have done a lot of the suggestions on Cruiser54's site. The key issue is that the engine has a very rough/low idle and comes very close to stalling once warmed up when coming to a stop or not depressing the accelerator. I have a SnapOn MT2500, so I can see that when in OPEN LOOP mode it runs reasonably well. I've replaced the IAC, adjusted the TPS, replaced most of the vacuum lines, grounds, etc. Based on the Jeep Renix Fuel Injection manual, I believe the O2 sensor is likely bad (since it's running terribly in CLOSED LOOP mode and always in a LEAN condition), but wanted to get some advice here before I start swapping parts. I don't have an analog voltmeter to test the O2 sensor. Here's a recording of a cold start. Jump to 4:40 to see it under load and then almost stall.

Finally had a chance to mount up the brackets on a set of XJ buckets that I bought. These brackets are top-notch and fit really well. I was able to drill out the old brackets that came with the XJ seats and these mounted up like a charm. They also have an indentation for the spring mount which was great to see.

Poor thing. What is the "street" model?

A tad? :-|

I don't know why anyone keeps these. Take them off and dremel the flares to match. Looks much better IMO.

Make sure to grab those rear fender flares and the mini console. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just installed the ZJ steering box. Works great.

You probably have a leak in the hose. I also ran into a ton of issues when bleeding an internal slave a few years back. I succeeded by letting it "gravity bleed" for awhile by opening the bleeder and just letting it slowly drain while making sure it was topped off from above for awhile, and then switching to traditional bleeding afterwards.

Just realized he has a 5 speed, thought it was automatic at first. The AW4 went through a few changes over the years, so only certain years are interchangeable. But since it's manual, it wouldn't matter.

He would have to get the transmission from a close-year XJ, and wouldn’t be able to get the front clip, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As someone who recently bought an MJ in California after searching for 2 years, that’s a pretty good deal. Keep in mind that a 4wd conversion would require new TC, front axle, drive shafts AND transmission. If you’re planning the 97+ swap anyway, you’d be best to find a rear-end crash 97+ 4WD XJ on Copart and just swap everything over (including engine, harness, dash, etc). I’m not sure if you’d run into issues with CA smog doing the engine upgrade—it should be okay based on the laws, but your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read everything on Novak Conversions website. The 360 swap is probably not the best bet over an LS motor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe the wiring to the O2 sensor is good (I recently replaced the plastic connector). I'll get a video of it running at 2500 RPM's. I also got a few comments when I posted this on Reddit. Mostly focused on either an exhaust leak or bad O2 sensor. Going to also try plugging some vacuum lines as a process of elimination to see if I can isolate a leak.

Another popular option is a Ford 8.8 w/ disc brakes. Same bolt pattern (but will need spring perches welded on). About 1.5" less wide, but significantly stronger than D35/C8.25.

Thanks. Will check that. When I got the truck I noticed the fuel resistor ballast was bypassed and I plugged it back in. Will try bypassing it to see if that has any changes. Will also check fuel pressure. Prior owner also recently changed the fuel pump and filter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been systematically getting my '88 4.0L Comanche into better running condition and now am encountering an issue with super rough idle. I've verified the TPS voltage is good and just replaced the IAC. The video will show how the engine tries to go into closed loop mode, the short term fuel trim spikes up, then it flips back into open loop, all the while stumbling with idle. Before I replace the O2 sensor, does anyone have ideas that could cause this? The coolant and air intake temps appear good, as well as the MAP voltage. The O2 sensor reads a constant 4.98v and never fluctuates (although I've read that is expected because an analog voltmeter is the only way to read it).

The exhaust manifold is aftermarket but built to OE specs. I was also concerned about thickness differences between the intake and exhaust, so I measured them and found they were the same. This is still holding steady after re-torquing the manifold bolts to 25 ft/lbs in proper order.

Re-torqued the bolts and it appears to not be leaking. Will keep an eye on it.

Forgot to mention--I replaced these when I replaced the exhaust manifold. No leaks. They are definitely a bit noisy, but there is no fuel leaking and the vacuum leak doesn't appear to be coming from them. There is a bit of air movement from the cooling fan. May try with the match (wish me luck--don't want to burn the garage down).

Will be checking that once I get the stethoscope. I just removed the intake manifold heat shield to make things easier to see, but nothing notable. Also checked from underneath using mirror and from the ground, but couldn't see anything significant.

Forgot to mention, tried that as well but didn't see anything noticeable (will get a video on this). The exhaust/intake gasket was my first thought since I used the cheaper one that was included with the new exhaust manifold, so I replaced it with a good Fel-Pro unit and sprayed both sides with Permatex High-Temp Copper spray (but still had the same issue).

I've been trying to get my '88 MJ running right, but continue to experience a rough idle and what sounds like an intake leak somewhere around the #4 cylinder. So far, I've replaced: Exhaust manifold & gasket (replaced gasket twice) Throttle body cleaned, gasket replaced, MAP connector tapped & replaced Valve cover gasket Ensured all manifold bolts are properly tightened in correct order Checked head surface for approximate flatness using straightedge I'm about to pull my hair out on this one. I didn't see any obvious issues or cracks when I took the manifolds off the last time. I just pulled the heat shield off in order to get a better look, but still don't see any visible cracks or other issues. I ordered a mechanics stethoscope and will be using that to try to figure it out. Any ideas or suggestions would be super appreciated. Really hoping that the head isn't warped or cracked.

I don’t even know what to say. It sounds like your rear axle came loose, rotated, and pulled the slip hole (not spindle) out of your transfer case or transmission? Something is definitely screwed. We will need pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk