ghetdjc320

Good to know. I’d live to find a compatible connector block for the back side of those switch panels. Those are also hard to find but they have to be an off the shelf part from some other manufacturer

The startup RPM is normally coolant temp dependent. It’s normal to have an idle up at startup for a few seconds. The vacuum leak would definitely idle it up though across the board.

been away on work but return in 2 weeks. I’ll be hitting the ground running to get this project finished before winter. Attached some recent pics to hold you over until then

NTK is what I run for any sensors if it’s available. A nos sensor is nice if available and in good shape.

Nice! I had very similar issues. Someone should start a repair service. Would be a nice hobby with a bit of income . Just can’t find any good replacement units anymore.

If you want the be all end all dampener made in the USA here you go: https://www.newcomerracing.com/store/p23/Jeep_AMC_4.0_4.2_Stroker_(87-06)_Direct_Replacement_ATI_SFI_Approved_Harmonic_Six_Rib_Serpentine_Balancer_Kit.html

I’ve seen the “cure” used at the knuckles as well

Good to know. I’ll keep an eye out for them

That track bar kit relocates the frame side track bar mounting point. Having it out of alignment with the drag link will cause your bump steer which quickly leads to “death wobble”. You also mentioned the bolt was undersized, if it is, that is a serious problem. Or it is also very likely that the axle side bracket holes are wallowed out. IMO Rough country is a corner cutting enterprise. With affordability as their underlying goal, things such as “safety” and “engineering” take a back seat.

Wouldn’t this work? https://www.quadratec.com/products/55014_8029.htm Edit: or this? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1997,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180370,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1768.html They have a few varieties last I checked

I would think the opening could probably clear a 35 with a 2” lift but you’d need to adjust the bump stops.

It does seem more practical, just not the best look imo. It’s the small size of the MJ cab that makes a long bed look a bit off to me. Resale value may be lower as well depending on the buyer.

That stuff works well. Used it on 3 projects now. I went over that with a good cavity wax and never saw any more rust in the frame.

T&M fab also makes a striker reinforcement plate. Just installed the pair on my build.

There are a few aftermarket gauge options. I’m planning to go quite custom on my build but the options I also came across was the intelliteonix create-a-dash and the autometer invision universal kit.

Could also use a universal gps unit from Dakota digital and just program it to the 91+ electric speedo

Very practical advise there. When researching what lift your want to run down the road, keep in mind that 3” is about the max you can go for a reasonable price (~1k-1.5k) on a decent lift. Above that amount of lift and a lot of factory suspension geometry will need to be corrected which is where the prices do really add up. It can definitely be done, but the costs to do a good quality lift that right way increase exponentially over around the 3” mark. Tires sizes over about 31-32 will also need extra $$$$ to upgrade the associated components such as axles and gears.

They said the Amazon listing is an old one but yes it’s about $600 which is not bad for a solid piece of fabrication all powder coated. He mentioned how they tied together the mounting brackets inside the bumper with a cross brace to provide a true class 2 receiver hitch. Ties in the back of the d rings as well. On the suspension side he has a 3.5 and 6” bolt on full 4 link MJ specific lift kit.

Some of you probably knew this but it was news to me. I came across an old Hanson rear bumper design for the MJ and reached out to them. Just had a long conversation with the owner and it turns out they still have all the parts and even have a couple leftover in stock. He has a 91 and has designed a few products for his personal rig. Said he could also do an overland style rear bumper for the MJ similar to their XJ unit. He’s going to send me an email with pictures and info of what they have and what they can make. I like their rear bumper design as it is a good compliment to my warrior front setup with the hidden winch. Good to know there is another source though of anything MJ related. I’ll add the info that I get from him here.

There are 3 drain holes in the front of the bed. Check and see if they are open and allowing water to drain

Thanks for making these available!

The replacement bedside panels will need to solid metal to weld to. It does not look like that would be a good option for you rig. I would be curious to know how the underside looks as well and in how many places the rust has eaten clear through the metal. Having a shop weld on new metal will probably cost you more than a decent replacement bed. @Pete M is our Comanche bed got to. Now I don’t recommend this as it’s not a permanent nor a structural way to repair things but you could also sand everything down with 80 grit (using a da sander or similar) to remove all loose scale and paint. You could then use the whole por15 treatment process which starts with an acid based rust killer. I have seen people even use a mesh backer along with several coats of por15 to create an almost fiberglass-like structure to bridge holes in sheet metal. That stuff is quite the product with proper prep work.

I’ve talked about the quality of welds in my build thread a few times. Having owned a 90 and 91 I can tell you there is zero consistency in factory welds. The 91 I had the welds looked very clean like someone knew what they were doing. I’m not referring to the spot welds mind you. It’s the hand welding that was done all over the Jeep. My 90 looks like yours. Utter crap welds with spatter all over the place. Also looks like they probably used a flux core wire as the spatter was epic. I’ve cleaned off sooo much spatter. Any welds that looked questionable I just went over with my mig setup then cleaned them up. It does have me wondering though if there are welding quality differences between the amc and Chrysler gears though.

For reference, all the fans on the Novak unit are Spal units. The shroud covers practically every square inch of that radiator. I do plan on adding a condenser fan as well for the ac as that can make a huge difference when idling or in traffic.