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I’m dreading how much work those flares are going to be to fit I'm thinking about maybe going with the Ares bed armor to get a better mounting surface and open up the wheel well to its full potential

Mopar slotted wheels just arrived. These things are awesome. Also took a picture of the back side as I couldn’t find any pics of it online. For those who may be using adapters for these wheels, they should fit very well within the back of the flange

I have a Stanley one that works just fine for 3/16. Made in China too lol. After country of origin, try to find something made pre-covid. Manuafacturing, from what I’ve seen, took a huge fall in terms of quality during and post covid and that goes for US and foreign made. Just my .02

The crush sleeve should have already been set. Tighten the pinion nut to spec and see if you still have play. It shouldn’t have come loose but more importantly, don’t keep driving it if it’s loose. Tighten it then pull the cover to inspect the gears and oil but don’t over tighten and crush the crush sleeve further

From the specs above, it seems like the WJ and 92 XJ unit bearings share quite a bit in common.

Here are the general specs for the 2004 WJ, XJ (99.5+), 2007 JK, 1992 XJ, and 88 MJ unit bearings (in that order) Stands out right away that the JK unit bearing need 32 spline outers.

What’s interesting is that the WJ conversion using WJ knuckles still uses XJ/MJ unit bearings. Since the only thing changing is the knuckle, it would be logical that the 1/4” spacer is used to correct the knuckle and not the unit bearing. That would make it seem like a wj 5x5 pattern could be had simply by replacing the unit bearing with the WJ version but keeping the XJ knuckles. Someone just needs to get one and try it

Try tightening and see what happens.

So ultimately the question still remains. Perhaps we can put this to rest once and for all. Has anyone just installed WJ unit bearings on the XJ/MJ knuckle to accomplish the 5x5 bolt pattern? Not swapping on the WJ knuckles, steering or brakes, just the unit bearing. We know the spline count fits, we know it fits inside the XJ knuckle but the question is does it center the u joint when installed on that knuckle. Or is a spacer required to bump it out?

What lift height are you running?

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Drum brakes require less pressure before locking. The whole purpose of a prop valve it to correctly distribute the pressure to keep the rear from locking before the front. On a truck, it makes sense to have a varying or adjustable prop valve as the bed weight will always be a rather large variable. The ZJ valve for a 4 wheel disk setup will allow a higher pressure pass through for rear disks. There are also many more factors at play with a hydraulic braking system.

I’m curious as well

No XJ rear disks at least none that I know of. ZJ had rear disk options.

Notch flares on the way. It’s officially an LCG build. Plan is 33’s or maybe 34’s on the 3” BDS lift. Time to measure every component to the T so it all fits as intended. I’ll post up pics on the notch flares install as well. There are very few pics of the install on the bed of an MJ. I will not separate the inner and outer wheel well housing though. That opens up a whole can of worms. I’ll trim it nice and tight but keep the integrity of that body seam. Front fenders I don’t really care about hacking up but I’m switching to the 97+ front clip . Alao reached out to Corbeau and ordered some matching upholstery for my trailcat’s to do the door panels with. Have to think ahead about audio setup as well since they will be custom made. IMO, the best scenario is to build some kind of enclosure in the B pillars to accommodate a 6.5” sub (like the little JL W3). If I could manage to accomplish that, I’d run a nice morel or similar 3 way system up front with some 6.5’s or larger main woofer along with mids and highs properly positioned. Also need to measure for driveshafts and order that “Dirty Dingo” AC kit for the ls. I considered going with the new Holley mid-mount accessory drive but after seeing how @USN_JeepMJ and @Limeyjeeper managed to install their steering reservoirs and keep a stock style PS pump using a smaller intake tubing, I’d decided to go that route. Also considering the psc big bore box as I had one previously in my YJ and it’s a great box for filling the gap between a stock box and hydro assist.

So long as you get one that matches your braking setup (disk front drum rear unless you swapped to rear disks) you should be good

Much appreciated . I try to post a ton of pics of the smaller detail items as I’ve found it’s always the one thing I skipped or overlooked that comes back to bite. So for the next chapter of this build. I have about 11 weeks to get things as far along as I can this go around. I have a set of Revolution 4.56 gears and install kits waiting to go in. The “original” aspects of the build are becoming fewer and fewer. The nos turbines i ended up selling so I have a clean slate to move forward on. My previous choices on steering gear box, and fender flares may need to be reconsidered. I’m still on the fence regarding notch flares. If I go that route, 33-34’s are in the sights on this otherwise LCG build. I did decide on some wheels though which should help things a bit. After reading through @USN_JeepMJ’s build, I love those JL wheels and am ordering some up. Will use BORA wheel adapter that will give me the M14-1.5 stud for the wheels to use JL lug nuts as specified. I have to say, I really appreciate everyone posting the tidbits of details from there builds especially issues they’ve had as there are so many takeaways and lessons from those who have gone before. So here are the Mopar accessory wheels for the JL/JT. 17x8.5 with a 71.5mm center bore. 5.22” backspacing. With the BORA adapters, they are also custom made in the USA and are available in 1mm increments for thickness. The starting size is 19mm (3/4”). Going to do a lot of measuring to get the exact stance I’m looking for.

That’s right. I’m running pre 90 knuckles with late model XJ HP30. I’m using 14’ GC calipers and brackets on 04’ Explorer rotors. I’m also interested in going to a 13” rotor. It’s a tricky part of my built atm as I try to sort wheel size, backspacing, brakes and steering. I’m running a KJ 8.25 rear with disks which is 63” wms. The track width is great in back as it fills out the wheel wells much nicer. Currently I have 1.25 spacers for the front to match the overall wms of the back but not sure if I’ll keep it that way. Looking for some wheels with the right bolt pattern and backspacing (around 5”). The tire debate is endless as well. Trying to go with at least metric 32’s but 33’s are a possibility if I go notch flares… too many options

Good to know. I’m curious if we could use WJ hubs directly on XJ/Mj knuckles for the 5x5 pattern with appropriately drilled/sourced rotors without swapping to the other WJ components. I’m running a big brake kit at the moment with wk2 calipers. I need to see if I can find someone a the parts store that will let me measure some different options.

@75sv1 just a quick recap, I’m looking at running 5x5 pattern on my HP30. Did you use WJ hubs with the 1/4” spacer on XJ knuckles? If so, what rotors did you use?

It’s also possible that you’re leaking from failed seam sealer or a rusted body seam. There is a vertical body seam under each lower corner of the rear window that will likely be hiding a good deal of rust if the window has been leaking. Personally, I haven’t seen the urtheane itself fail but rather the surface that the urethane adheres to.

If you’re running HO fuel injection, you will eventually start to have it dying when coming to a stop if your vss isn’t sending a signal to the ecu.

Doesn’t sound cheap but it does sound fun

The fork moves on a single rail. How would you propose splitting that into two and what would be the purpose of that?