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You could also run the sd springs hd 5 leaf packs with a slightly longer shackle. Those springs lift a good 2.5-3”. Without the longer shackles I bet it will be pretty close to level

Good rule of thumb for sure. My dad was raised on a sheep farm in the Dakotas and thought me how to drive in the prairies and crossing the creeks. Never needed 4wd, he just showed me how to pick my lines and now my limits. I took him out to Moab with me in 2017 and we never needed 4wd. Just lots of articulation and clearance it seems. The “slick” rock had loads of traction when dry. I think that’s the last time he wanted to go wheeling though lol. He’s a few years older than you and was not up for any more “jarring” rides. Driving on ice though the million dollar highway from Durango to Riverton in a YJ with 35’s and Detroit’s was a white knuckle experience. I think that’s the last time I really went wheeling anywhere.

I’m just referring to it fitting on the knuckle. The correct caliper and rotor combo would be needed. It makes perfect sense though that for the old bolt on fixed position calipers (pre-90) they would need the rotor located at a specific depth to center it in the caliper. That would be accomplished through the unit bearing shoulder height. So that makes sense as you mentioned that the pre-90 brakes would lock up with a different unit bearing shoulder height. When installing a different brake setup though (Wilwood, big brakes etc.) I normally use the 99.5+ unit bearings on the pre-90 knuckles since there is less offset to compensate for and the wheel studs are longer. They work just fine in the earlier knuckles.

Interesting. On my 91 there is no board there. It’s a plastic clamshell that opens up to hold the fabric.

Yeah, prices on our trucks are not coming down. Big demand low supply.

Proof of concept coming along. More tweaking required but here’s a teaser.

Do those open up like a clamshell to insert the fabric? On my 91 they are a clamshell design but I’ve never seen piping on some

The only substantial change on the unit bearing was in 99.5+ when they went to longer studs and a different shoulder height. The pre 90 unit bearings also had a different bearing design. The pre 90 knuckles had bolt on calipers with thick lugs cast into the knuckles. The pads were held in only by the calipers and they also had a ball joint “preload” insert in the lower knuckle flange. In 90 they added the “wings” onto the knuckles to retain the pads and the caliper mounts are itty bitty compared to the older knuckles. The rotors in 99.5 also went to a cast design.

Did the sensor run a light or gauge?

Looking forward to the build. For some reason I think we have all the 91 eliminators ever made in the club lol. Glad to see a fellow HO

I remember my dad always telling me, nothing gets stuck more than a 4x4. It is pretty amazing how 2wd can get around. Pick your lines and it’s almost magical. Appologies @Minuit for the hijack. To answer the main question, I was born in the Renix MJ era

Love top gear. And for those that think you need 4x4, lockers, winch, lift to go wheeling:

No need to get personal here Jesse. We’re all here to help in one way or another.

Yep they’re not bad at all. If your getting their kit, stick with the longer 4.0 rods vs the short 4.2 rods. It’s a bit extra but worth it

I think @Minuit started it this time. I remember your first posts and saying that you had no license and never worked on cars but wanted to tackle this punch list of mods yourself, stroker, lift etc. I think this thread has pointed out the reasons for our different responses (age). My comments were like, get a license and learn how to get a screw out first and others have been like “son, I’ll take you through this step by step and together we’ll build the MJ of your dreams”. But then we all find out that you not actually starting any of these projects... Plus the literally endless threads that go nowhere. So yeah, I try to keep my comments informative but also want to give you a realistic view of what to expect. Not everyone likes that though. Some just want to dream on and that’s ok too. But I’m not going to sugar coat and gift wrap everything if that makes sense. Just trying to be a straight shooter here so appologies if any comments have been harsh. I will always try to be helpful once a thought leaves the theoretical stage .

Pretty much same story for me

Wonder who your talking about

or a hydroboost!

This is true. 90% of the time a larger MC is not needed especially for stock brakes. The ratio from MC bore to Caliper piston size is the basis for hydraulic leverage. However, there is a volume equation in all of this that seems like it’s being forgotten. Not to mention, the booster capabilities. If you run a hydroboost setup there is just no reason to run under a 1” bore with stock brakes. The booster is far more effective at providing assistance so why not up the volume for improved pedal response. This applies equally to vacuum booster setups while running significantly larger caliper sizes. In essence, everything needs to be balanced. The built in brake bias due to caliper sizes is based on a vehicle with a specific weight distribution. Our trucks for the most parts just don’t fit the bill unless they have a fair amount of cargo weight to equal it out.

That’s a bummer! A write up would be awesome though. Especially as things start to warm up stateside

It’s some stuff called Hippo Linner from dominion sure seal. I love this stuff. UV stable, great adhesion, no rubber crumb and a great finish. It’s tintable and is pretty much the same product as Monsta Liner. Takes 72hrs to fully cure.

What about your stock axle? Dana 35 is fine with 31’s

Wouldn’t door lock linkage retainers work also? They’re all over the place online and come in metal or plastic

For the bedliner?

Awesome. What was the missing cable/ground you needed?