ghetdjc320

Do you have access to another compression gauge by chance?

Is your battery fully charged Ned did you have all the plugs out? You need a minimum cranking rpm of 400 to get accurate results. Also remember that what your really looking for is significant inconsistencies between cylinders. Significant is normally ~20psi difference

I don’t think so. I would still like to have one but I rewired my existing setup and it does work much better now. I might still consider it though. Let me know how much shipped. Thanks

Spring over does definitely help with clearance under the axle and provides some decent lift. One drawback is that they are more susceptible to axle wrap. 5+” of lift height will require significantly more mods than lower lift heights.

You won’t see water in the coolant all the time. Depends where the head gasket blew or head cracked. ~75% of the time you won’t see milky oil at all though.

Smoke color sounds like coolant. I’d guess you have a head problem. But that’s just a guess. A comp test will get you some more info.

I have a new Mopar unit that came in last week. Let me get a pic of the part number

How does it run?

I’d hate it on the trails.

Replacing all ball joints, axle shaft u joints, welding on artec C gussets and installing the arb up front.

Installed NOS mud flaps in the rear. These were NOS XJ fronts. I made some simple brackets and they work excellent. Also installed the hilift extreme in the bed. Installing the nuts on those upper mounting plate bolts was crazy.

Yikes thing thing is rough. Looks like a cheap tube bumper that interferes with the tires. Can’t believe they angled the front flare like that. Very shoddy work all over

For a 91? Where were you able to find one?

Just note that Rustys and Rough Country are sub-par. Grab a Zone, BDS, OME or piece one together as others have mentioned.

Here is another pic of how it sits

Fabed up a custom bracket for my arb compressor and finished integrating all the wiring. All my accessorie wiring is now integrated into my main harness and I completely re-pined the PDC to have all my fuses and relays completely factory. I used painless wiring power braid wire loom on absolutely everything along with self vulcanizing wrap and heat shrink. All splices are soldered and heat shrieked and all connectors are the waterproof kind. Really like this location for the compressor. Leaves room for my eventual PSC reservoir and I was able to get it installed cleanly along with the washer bottle (thanks to @eaglescout526)

So did the latches move at all? Is one side loose?

Just a quick note: unless you do a slip yoke eliminator you should not change your pinion angle. It should be parallel to the transfer case output.

I really like BDS components and they are one of the few companies producing a variety of low lift kits for MJ’s. The 3” lift is a nice setup: https://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=7&mo=33&ty=39&yr=1986-1992 Regarding steering, look into the ZJ 93-98 grand Cherokee steering upgrade. It’s a bolt on upgrade and works very well with mild lifts. At 2” your stock track bar should still be ok but over that you’ll need an extended front track bar. You can get them in multiple varieties but many go with the JKS track bar. Above 2” you’d probably also want to go with some adjustable control arms to get your caster angles right again. I run metal cloak control arms for a TJ. Currie and metal cloak are the big brand go to’s but there are MANY other options. 2” lift with 31’s would be ok perhaps with some Napier or similar flares to open up your wheel well a bit.

The new gen d30 fronts a quite stout axles for a 30.

You two should exchange phone numbers . You can always post up what the final result is.