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Are you going to use a PDC?

You will likely just need to add a vacuum check valve on the vacuum line going through the firewall to the hvac panel. The vacuum motor that controls that hvac door is located on the drivers side at the plenum box. If the check valve doesn’t solve the problem, you can try using a vacuum pump (just a little minivan hand unit works fine) and test the vacuum motor to make sure it’s holding. You can backwards troubleshoot from there. It is also very common to have a vacuum leak in the hvac vacuum hose right near the firewall. Good thing to double check as well

This is great advice here and what I would also recommend. Re-purposing factory connections and the PDC is the cleanest way to go. I’ve done stand alone efi from Holley and it’s a great setup. That being said, a lot of you stock under hood wiring will remain. The ecu itself will be deleted but there are some basic things it provided that you’ll need to either get from the new ecu or will need to piece together like your 5v reference signals for map, tps, vss etc. Also, I use alldata for all the wiring diagrams and it has everything you will every need to trace down wiring and thin out what you don’t need.

4.10’s would be great with the aw4 and 31’s. I ran 3.55’s for several years on 31’s with a ba10/5 tranny and it was quite manageable. The d30 carrier break at 3.73 is what kept me from swapping gears earlier.

Yeah, don’t go with 3.73. 3.55’s or 4.10 depending on drivetrain and tire size

3.73 is an uncommon ratio to go with. If you must have it though grab an aftermarket set. Swapping in an lp axle is a step backwards

Why not go with a Holley terminator x system? Tunable to your hearts content but will get you going out of the box once you add the 4.2 hyperspark distributor

If your looking for aftermarket, I enjoyed the corbeau Baja XRS in my YJ. PRP seats are also highly regarded. For an MJ I might go with a corbeau trailcat or similar since the width is nice and thigh bolsters are easier to get in and out of.

Had that label on my 88 YJ

That’s what I’ve done before. Drill and tap the axle tube on top.

Xj/mj/tj 44 tubes are no better. And the d35 center section is rigid enough. But you could truss it. Superior had a D35 truss but it was designed for fore/aft deflection vs the typical over the axle truss. Only reason I’d go this route is for a lightweight lcg build. But it would do just fine for that. To top it off, most MJ’s are pre 90’ and have the non c-clip 35 also.

I prefer pulling the engine with tranny together and installing it together also. With the radiator support removed it is an easy pull

Super 35 . Lightweight, tons of clearance and plenty strong for narrow 35’s.

Are you thinking kind of a low CG build? I’ll probably get bashed around a bit for this idea but I’d love to do a lcg build with a super 35, Hp 30, narrow 35’s (10.5-11.5 or so width), notch flares and about 3.5” of lift with some proper air bumps setup and some good weight reduction work. Really no cost savings over a traditional rig but it would be very capable.

If the entire door card was covered in resin it may work but the factory water shield applied to the door will be more effective. Coating one side of an absorbent material won’t offer much benefit imho. A whole fiberglass door panel would be nice though! It would break up the plastic palace interior a bit

If the substrate was stronger it would work well but since the door cards get pulled and pried off and have to have some flexibility, your resin is ill start to crack. That may cause the remaining resin to act more like a water trap

I used a good pressure washer in my old ones. Worked fine

Not a bad idea. How about spraying on some flex-seal, rubberized undercoating or similar on the card?

The specs on the general spring/SD truck springs have been well documented here. Many of us have run them so you won’t be buying blind.

This is what I did but I applied it to the door itself. If the factory water shield is missing, the door cards will start to get wet over time

You may have your shift fork on upside down. Are you testing this in the bench or in the truck?

And if you still have you late 80’s-early 90’s plastic palace interior it will make a ton of noise lol. Shakes the screws loose and will drive you nuts sitting at a stop light

No belt would do it

@eaglescout526 can get you new OEM mounts.