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I prefer just adding the check valve to the hvac line after the canister to eliminate other possible vacuum leak locations.

If it’s a 92 then it has an internal slave cylinder. Clutch change is in order. But try bleeding it first just to be sure

If it was driven that way before you bought it, it will likely need new synchros. A clutch going out will typically slip but won’t keep you from getting into gear. Getting into gear requires that the clutch fully engages. So checking the master and slave cylinder would be were i would start as suggested. They are directly responsible for getting the clutch engaged and disengaged. What year is the Jeep and does it only happen in 1-2?

So with that info the actual lift should be about 3” over stock.

I don’t believe it’s built into the canister. Even so though, that hvac line should have its own check valve. That’s absolutely true though. An engine under load will produce almost no vacuum and the default position on that vacuum motor is defrost.

The SURR kit is a top shelf quality kit by a reputable company that stands behind the product. To me its worth it. Plus, it really does come with a great assortment of fittings including some that are tough to find.

A PDC is the power distribution center. Not sure about renix years but they were standard starting in 91+. It houses most of the relays and high amp fuses for all the electrical. I repined my 91 pdc and have my sub amp, arb comp, aux lights, aux e-fans and more all running through it in addition to all the factory components (ac, fuse block, starter, fuel pump, headlights, alt power etc)

This was a wiring project but you can see the larger Wilwood valve mounted with the drop bracket onto an 01 XJ booster and master. Best non-hydroboost brakes I’ve had so far

Get this kit from summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urr-br-ez316?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2ZaGBhBoEiwA8pfP_jl7-A7cMNJ7i74XoN6F3EDdn1ejZx-FK8gZGZeTg9kvIMZeFVOIjxoCJFEQAvD_BwE You’ll have everything you need to revamp your brakes and it’s a super quality kit with us made copper nickel line that has thicker walls than the Amazon stuff. Also, you can go with the Wilwood valve above or you can do the larger Wilwood valve which has the plumbing for bothe front and rear built in. Also has a nifty little bracket you can get for a clean install

Are you going to use a PDC?

You will likely just need to add a vacuum check valve on the vacuum line going through the firewall to the hvac panel. The vacuum motor that controls that hvac door is located on the drivers side at the plenum box. If the check valve doesn’t solve the problem, you can try using a vacuum pump (just a little minivan hand unit works fine) and test the vacuum motor to make sure it’s holding. You can backwards troubleshoot from there. It is also very common to have a vacuum leak in the hvac vacuum hose right near the firewall. Good thing to double check as well

This is great advice here and what I would also recommend. Re-purposing factory connections and the PDC is the cleanest way to go. I’ve done stand alone efi from Holley and it’s a great setup. That being said, a lot of you stock under hood wiring will remain. The ecu itself will be deleted but there are some basic things it provided that you’ll need to either get from the new ecu or will need to piece together like your 5v reference signals for map, tps, vss etc. Also, I use alldata for all the wiring diagrams and it has everything you will every need to trace down wiring and thin out what you don’t need.

4.10’s would be great with the aw4 and 31’s. I ran 3.55’s for several years on 31’s with a ba10/5 tranny and it was quite manageable. The d30 carrier break at 3.73 is what kept me from swapping gears earlier.

Yeah, don’t go with 3.73. 3.55’s or 4.10 depending on drivetrain and tire size

3.73 is an uncommon ratio to go with. If you must have it though grab an aftermarket set. Swapping in an lp axle is a step backwards

Why not go with a Holley terminator x system? Tunable to your hearts content but will get you going out of the box once you add the 4.2 hyperspark distributor

If your looking for aftermarket, I enjoyed the corbeau Baja XRS in my YJ. PRP seats are also highly regarded. For an MJ I might go with a corbeau trailcat or similar since the width is nice and thigh bolsters are easier to get in and out of.

Had that label on my 88 YJ

That’s what I’ve done before. Drill and tap the axle tube on top.

Xj/mj/tj 44 tubes are no better. And the d35 center section is rigid enough. But you could truss it. Superior had a D35 truss but it was designed for fore/aft deflection vs the typical over the axle truss. Only reason I’d go this route is for a lightweight lcg build. But it would do just fine for that. To top it off, most MJ’s are pre 90’ and have the non c-clip 35 also.

I prefer pulling the engine with tranny together and installing it together also. With the radiator support removed it is an easy pull

Super 35 . Lightweight, tons of clearance and plenty strong for narrow 35’s.

Are you thinking kind of a low CG build? I’ll probably get bashed around a bit for this idea but I’d love to do a lcg build with a super 35, Hp 30, narrow 35’s (10.5-11.5 or so width), notch flares and about 3.5” of lift with some proper air bumps setup and some good weight reduction work. Really no cost savings over a traditional rig but it would be very capable.

If the entire door card was covered in resin it may work but the factory water shield applied to the door will be more effective. Coating one side of an absorbent material won’t offer much benefit imho. A whole fiberglass door panel would be nice though! It would break up the plastic palace interior a bit