Dzimm

I occasionally daily mine however I have a constant fear that someone is going to hit me and wreck it. They are no different than any other vehicle to daily drive like stated above.

There was someone selling a set in the "for sale" section that were factory but like all 20+ year old plastic, they were brittle. Edit: found the better one that I got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AMDAR20/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_BqfZzbEME6Z8P https://m.ebay.com/itm/Universal-12V-Auto-Courtesy-Flip-Light-Made-in-USA-/222657638351 Here is a set that will work with very minor trimming to the hole to fit. These are the type of light most guys use for replacements. I myself got a set from the same company (euramtec) that were titled as being for the Comanche and had a third pin for the door switches to activate the light. I am really happy with my set. I couldn't find a set specifically stated as for the Comanche but these are pretty much the same and will fit. These also fit in other vehicles too, oddly enough, one of them is the DeLorean.

I'm in the same boat as you, I'm missing part of the latch. I know the autoparts stores sell "universal" latches. Some even look like the factory latches from the MJ so I'm sure they would have something that would work. Plus they are cheap.

I can't imagine a truss like that being factory, especially since it is in the bottom of the axle.

This looks just like the factory ones. It says for transfer case but the bushings are the same size aren't they? https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Omix-ADA-Shift-Lever-Bushing-18680-19.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=116&t_pt=9534&t_pn=OAI18680.19&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplpOAI18680.1990441&sc_intid=OAI18680.1990441&gclid=CjwKCAjwmK3OBRBKEiwAOL6t1Eg0MHjCXbmjzY6n9oEUEVnfa6WS0Au7BsLibksjfglo-Rls6C4DFBoC4pYQAvD_BwE

It sure looks like it. I wonder how much the reserve is, it's still not met at $3750 (as it shouldn't be). I'm guessing it's in the $7500 range.. Although this is eBay so they prolly want $20k out of it.

Would a rubber grommet work? At least for a while?

It's a good ENGINE, it's just a $%!t execution of said engine.

No fab work would be required as they are the same motor. You would have to swap all the sensors from the old motor over to the newer one to make it run but that's easy enough.

The track bar will be fine being drilled like that. I'd be more concerned with upgrading the hollow and weak steering components. The stock trackbar is fine modified like you did until you add more lift to the truck.

I've got the 4.5" short arm Rusty's lift and have zero complaints. It rides well and is built with quality parts. I'm sure the long arm kit will be a better ride and the same quality of parts.

1990 factory clock http://www.ebay.com/itm/332388008109 1984-86 factory clock http://www.ebay.com/itm/332388008112

I have continued to use Tapatalk to post pictures since you can type your post and add pictures all at once like normal but without the file size limitation. I however don't use it for normal "thread surfing" for that I use the mobile site.

I would gladly help with this but I rarely use my radio as it is (it also doesn't receive more than 1 local station and it happens to be rap/hip hop ). I'm very interested to see how this works. Good work for even making it possible! I would have never guessed it possible at all.

Well my usual luck struck again.. On my way to the Jeep show I started getting banging noises over bumps and found a fluid leak at the end of the Dana 30. I chose not to run the truck in the event so I could figure out the issues without damaging anything. Turns out my front driveshaft contacts the exhaust. It doesn't make much contact with it but it's enough to make a terrible racket, similar sounding to grinding gears on a standard trans. As for the leak, I initially thought it was coming from the caliper but on further inspection I realized it was coming out of the axle tube. So after just redoing the pinion seal and servicing the diff, I have to pull it all apart again. So far I've got the drivers side shaft pulled but the passenger side hub bolts are full on seized. I'm waiting on a 12 point socket and swivel to use my impact to hopefully break them loose.

That's good that you aren't getting vibes. The "general rule" is if you don't have vibes you're probably fine but I'd still suggest measuring the angles to be sure. The better your angles, the longer the u-joints will last.

Nice truck btw

OK I'm looking at the kit and it comes with the LCAs and sway bar drop brackets so you're good there. The brake lines may not be tight now but as soon as you flex, they will get real tight. As for bump stops, you'll have to readjust these any time you change tires so be aware of that. To set them up you can either buy kits online or use $1 hockey pucks like myself and many others. To measure for them you will want to find a ditch or rock or something to flex the truck on and try to stuff the wheels as far as you can until they just touch something (do this after addressing brake lines). Then measure the distance from your spring bucket to the existing bump stops and add 1/2" - 1" to that to account for bump stop squish. The rear is done similarly but those are between the axle and frame. Most aftermarket bump stops I've seen say "x amount of inches longer than stock" which is why I say measure to the factory stop. If that doesn't make sense, there is writeups on this out there and I'd suggest reading those to see pictures and a better understanding.

I saw the 70k and my brain went straight to "a 70 thousand mile joy ride???" then I realized it... Stupid imperial system, why can't we all just use the metric system and make life easier?!? Do the ferrets like the snow? Do they play in it?

You would never need an SYE and a tcase drop at the same time.. You shouldn't need an SYE with only 4.5" When I swapped a C8. 25 into my 4.5" MJ I ended up shimming the axle 6*. That may have been due to my welding of the spring perches not perfectly so yours may not be that far off. Are you getting vibration? My recommendation would be to check the angles and just shim the axle side if you need it. Shims are cheap and it can be done in a couple hours. Tcase drops are quick and easy but cause other issues like shift linkage binding and it can cause your mech fan to be super close to the rad. I run my XJ with one and I can't shift into 4Low because the linkage binds and I never got around to fixing it.

What all came in the lift you got? At that height you'll want: - Longer lower control arms to push the front axle forward and re-align the pumpkin with the t-case. (uppers aren't necessary but recommended) - Longer track bar to re-align the axle side to side. - extended brake lines - sway bar links like you mentioned - check your rear driveline angles and make sure you don't need a shim. I needed a 6* on mine but that was with a different axle as well. - bump stop appropriately to avoid damage It's a good idea to just generally look around under the truck and see what all looks like it would get tight when flexed out. You can also flex it to check clearances and make sure everything is long enough and there isn't contact anywhere. Also I wanted to mention this just to clarify, lift doesn't affect the need to regear. Tire size is what causes the need to regear.

The axle will fit fine however the gearing is probably not the same. If it's a 2wd it won't be an issue, if it's 4wd, figure out the gear ratios before swapping.

Thanks! It's definitely a lot of work but well worth it.

I spent the last few days sorting out my front diff issues. I pulled the cover and found it to be some kind of thicker "upgrade" cover held on with an entire thing of rtv.... It took forever to get it off. I sprayed out the case and the gears all look good and there was no metal so I think it's all OK. I did however notice light shining through the back of the diff... Turns out I had no vent tube anymore. I went ahead and ordered the proper size socket for the pinion nut (1 1/8"), a 1/8th npt tap and fitting to replace the missing vent, some fuel line for the vent hose, and a small filter for the top of the hose (the filter had to match everything else). That all arrived today from Amazon. After tapping the vent and replacing the pinion seal, I ran the vent hose and put everything back together. It was a very straight forward and easy repair. It's now all back together and doesn't seem to be leaking. The yoke had a groove worn in it where it contacts the seal so that will probably need replaced at some point. Tomorrow I will confirm it doesn't leak at highway speeds, then put the front driveshaft back on and finish prep for the Iowa All Breads Jeep show this weekend! Side note: I hate having to clean up the huge mess after such a simple job.. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Nice haha. Definitely a good story to tell.