Dzimm

So I just finished doing the math and putting together a sheet of the boost numbers for the Jeep 4.0. This shows what the numbers are for different PSI of boost, and gives the info needed to compare to compressor maps to select the proper turbo for this engine. Since this is an autocross based project, I need most of the power in the lower to mid area of the RPM range (2000-4000 RPM) for faster acceleration. I'm still somewhat lost when it comes to selecting a turbo based on this information and don't entirely understand how to read the compressor maps. I'm hoping that one of you does and can help me understand it.

So assuming you have the budget to buy this.. Buy a $5000 MJ that is built and reliable, then use the rest to buy one to build yourself. This is one of the best platforms to learn your automotive skills. No matter how much you spend on an MJ, at some point in the NEAR future, you will have to do some sort of troubleshooting and maintenance on it that you have not done before. In my opinion, it would be best for you to have 2 MJs or an MJ and an XJ. One to daily drive and not worry too much about, and one to build and learn on. That way when your DD breaks down, you not only have a backup vehicle, you also have the know how to fix it. That way you don't get stuck in the stress and the situation of having a broken vehicle you depend on that you don't know how to fix. This all assumes that you have some free time to tinker on a vehicle. As for tools, start with the basics like a simple socket set, screw drivers, a hammer, pliers, and a floor jack with stands. When you need a tool you don't have, go buy them as you need them. There really isn't many special tools for anything on it so you'll be able to get a long ways into a build before needing to spend money on tools. I say this from experience. I have 2 XJs and an MJ that I take very good care of, yet it always seems that at least one of them needs work done to it.

That is a very nice truck. It is probably worth that much but 95% of the fun of owning an MJ, is the building it to your needs. If I had that kind of money to spend on an MJ, I'd buy 3 of them and build them all in different ways.

Do what Ohm says and see what happens. It sounds like an electrical problem somewhere. Just to be sure check your shift linkage adjustment. I had a problem adjusting my NSS once causing weird start conditions and it turned out my linkage was off by a gear. You mention the trans was rebuilt so maybe it was reinstalled with the linkage in the wrong gear? Also return that unit you bought since the original works just the same.

Mostly true about the 0-60 however in a autocross/rally vehicle, acceleration is key so my time should change. And when I don't have any real way to test power, it's a good option. A supra turbo will be hard to find around here but I'll look into the Nissans and see what I can find.

Right and thats what I am really going for. I don't have access to a dyno nor do I have the money to go test multiple times (I wish I did). My results will be measured by 0-60 and 1/4mile time. I will also try to find a place to run it around a few corners and time myself. Obviously not the best for representing the results but will be enough to show what gain there is.

Good to know. Thanks. I did look at some of their equipment but it was hard because their website is garbage.

Wow thats some major horsepower from just accessories. What all did you put on it? Edit: I must have skimmed the first sentence when I first read it.

What is this boosted with? As for the power loss with the aw4, I'm okay with it. I do plan on wiring it so I can manually shift it if I want. I'm curious if manually shifting the aw4 will make any difference in the power loss or if it is just in the design of it to begin with.

This is good info but it also makes it so I don't have to do the trial and error because someone else has done it already. I also don't plan on this going together overnight so doing it myself in my shed is no big deal. I also am not going for a 12 second vehicle so I won't be pushing it nearly as hard as they did. I just want some more power out of an MJ to have some fun with. Like I said above, I plan on only running 6-8psi, a factory 4.0 and aw4 should be able to handle it. If I blow it up, we'll my budget is blown and I get a new motor. I'm not going to depend on this vehicle for anything, it's purely for fun and to see what I can do in my shed, with my skill level and tools, and to learn about turbos. I appreciate the push back on it. It gives me more to think about and you may bring something up that I haven't come across or considered yet.

https://bangshift.com/bangshiftapex/the-humbler-five-buddies-built-this-cheap-turbo-jeep-to-go-12s-and-destroy-on-the-autocross/ I know I'm not as smart as these guys but I am smart enough to do my research and make something like this happen in a Comanche. I want to try to find a decent turbo for cheap rather than an ebay unit but if worst come to worse, I'll get an ebay unit and see what happens.

I should be able to get anywhere from 6-8psi so upwards of 80 more HP without blowing the budget or any major stress on the stock motor. That does mean either I use an ebay turbo kit or I piece together a kit. I'm looking currently for a suitable factory turbo vehicle I could harvest most of the kit from. If I can get the turbo and some piping from a JY or Craigslist deal, it will be cheap enough to stay in budget. For now I'll keep an internal wastegate so that takes some cost off. The biggest expense will be an efi system to control fuel. I've found decent ones in the $500 area.

That is helpful thanks. To get a quality turbo I will probably have to get a used factory one of some kind.

That's a supercharger.... I did look at it but yeah more than I wanted to spend and not enough power for what it costs

The aftermarket ones are not the best. If you have a helper handy, put it in reverse with the engine off, adjust it back and forth until you find where the lights turn off in both directions. Set it roughly in the middle of those points and you should be good. If not, it's junk. Your best solution here is if you still have the factory NSS. Take it apart and clean it. The dielectric grease they put in them dries up over time and causes problems with the contacts. Reassemble without dielectric grease anywhere near the contacts and it'll be as good as new.

Space really does seem to be why it's all routed on the passenger side but that requires moving the battery elsewhere and rerouting battery cables. I'd rather try to find a way to touted in on the drivers side but we'll see. As for strokers and superchargers for the 4.0, they don't give the HP gains of a turbo and they cost way more. Stroker would be way more work but a supercharger would be much easier. As for the Chinese turbos, I'd be willing to try one. I've been hearing a lot of different places that they have gone up in quality recently. I would prefer and probably will try to source a much better turbo though. I plan to reuse hoses and piping that I have laying around so I should still be able to fit this in my budget.

So I'm poking around trying to figure out what I want to do for power in my next project. What I want: - It's gotta be a Comanche - It's gotta go fast - It's gotta corner well - I'm trying to stay super cheap, like $2500 max. I want to build some sort of rally/track/autocross type Comanche and have been trying to figure out what I want to do for a power plant. I have considered doing an LS swap but even doing it the "cheap" way like you see Sloppy Mechanics do it, it's more than I want to spend. My other option is to get an MJ with a 4.0 HO in it or transplant one in and then turbo it. I have never done anything with turbos and have learned a lot in the last few days of research. I feel confident I can buy a Comanche, do maintenance and repairs it needs, and turbo it for under $2500. - What I want to know though is if any of you guys have any experience with a turbo on a Jeep 4.0 that you could share? - Pretty much all the turbos in XJs and Wranglers seem to live on the passenger side, is there a reason for this? I plan to mount everything on the drivers side in place of the factory airbox to keep the piping runs short. - Anybody with turbo experience have recommendations on what turbos and accessory equipment would be good options for this application and budget? This project is still in the very beginning of planning phase so I'm a lonnnnggg way from buying parts and building the truck.

This is a really cool picture!

Lol how could it have gotten worse? We are all standing outside looking at the clouds and it starts to downpour during maximum. Just looks like a really bad storm here.

This is once in a lifetime for me without traveling and I don't get to see it....... In Des Moines this is what we get to see of the 95% eclipse. Damn storm is coming through and will be in the center of it during totality. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

We have that schedule as one of the options. For us it doesn't cost really anything to start and stop production, the only reason we need weekends is to keep up with production since the company is growing so fast. I work in the injection molding department setting up machines and decoupling molds, etc. Basically every department on the floor has to move to this rotating schedule. In order to even do it they have to nearly double our workforce or none of us in molding, the tool makers, machine shop, will get the time off since we are such small departments and have to be here. Yet they keep touting that they are cutting the workforce need down and won't have to hire many more employees. More than 70% of our company has been here for 10-15 years or more. Changing things so drastically is really pissing people off and people are worried about everyone quiting. The worst part is that they are telling us there is no plan to change the pay at all. So we go from these great schedules to crappy ones without a pay raise. In molding we already make way less than any other injection molding company around here pays, I'm talking an average of $10/hour less than average starting wage in the industry.

The options have both rotating days off and rotating days/nights. I would consider rotating days but most of the options are rotating days/nights. Children seem to be the biggest factor in this situation. Everyone I've talked to with children straight up said they can't work rotating. One of the guys in my department is a single dad and pointed out that there are no daycares open that long or at night. For me, I'm only 22 but hoping to get Married, buy a house, and start a family in the next year so going to rotating shifts will make that extremely difficult. Especially since my girlfriend works basically the same schedule as me already (6-3). I understand why they need to do it but it sucks for everyone who has setup their lives around this schedule for so many years.

Well I'm pissed. I've been working for Kreg Tool for quite some time on 1st shift working 7-3:30 every Monday-Friday. Perfect schedule for me. The "higher ups" have now decided to run on weekends and to get rid of temporary employees. This has caused them to change up the scheduling and the options they gave us are terrible. The options they offer are all rotating 10s or rotating 12s. This also has the packaging employees only getting 13 weekends off per year! This then leaves my department, of 6 employees, with less than that since we have to be here if there are packaging employees working!! My question is, have any of you worked rotating shifts and how hard is it to do that?

I wouldn't drive it. It's a gamble, right now there may not be any noticeable coolant in the oil or visa versa but it could start mixing at any time. You may be just down the block from your house when coolant starts pouring into the oil and by the time you get to work, you'll have no bearings left and scored cylinder walls. On the other hand you may have no issues. It's a gamble I wouldn't take.

There is but you don't necessarily need it. If you have a welder make a bracket or cut holes and weld nuts to the sheet metal. If not, just use the factory hole on the Comanche (widen the hole on the striker) and use a nutsert for the bottom. I've got nutserts in the bottom of mine and they arent going anywhere.