cruiser54

REnix TPS.

I think the OP wants to swap everything over from his donor XJ to replace his 4-banger. Renix 4.0 harness he has not. This is my speculation based on his signature. I was a little confused myself.

Trans side of TPS works the same on Renix or HO. The engine side works opposite.

Click on this link and look for the photo showing the proper wire routing. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Let us know what you find out please.

I'm confused. Wanna put a 94 HO into a Renix Jeep? Easy. Here's how. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

These little suchers are pretty loud, easy to mount, and effective. Plus, cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPACT-DUAL-TONE-AIR-HORN-LOUD-139dB-for-CAR-TRUCK-RV-/320835262613?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab3459895&vxp=mtr

They work opposite. The HO decrease voltage when throttle opened and Renix increases voltage.

No LOL about it I know!! You need it.

Remove the drain plug. Drain fluid. Reinstall plug with new sealing ring. Put in 3.5 quarts of Dex/Merc trans fluid. Follow instructions on dipstick for getting the level correct. Add fluid as necessary. Done. Check level, using dipstick instructions in a week. Note fluid condition and color. Repeat this procedure if fluid appears dirty or smells bad.

I got some from Napa. They price-matched O'Reilly's. The cylinders were Italian.

What vac test did you do? Or are you referring to the MAP? Did you ohm test the CPS or do an aC voltage test while cranking? Ever refreshed that ground strap at the firewall? CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting 　 　 Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8" from the stock 5/16", or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. 　 　 Revised 01-26-2013 Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. Revised 03-04-2013

For the front lights, click on the link in my signature and go to the Connector Refreshing writeup. There's a photo of the front lighting connector that's usually corroded.

I'm not keen with something like Seafoam in the oil. Marvel Mystery Oil works well and is more a lubricant than a solvent.

That freezing stuff is GREAT! OP, when the nut starts to loosen, tighten it back in a few threads, and then proceed to remove it.

What brands? Which model? Maybe I'll jump for a new header instead of just the gasket :) APN or an ebay one with the little "bellows" looking things on it.

Well stated.

Send the harness you remove to ParadiseXJ. LOL.

Water temp SENDER or coolant temp SENSOR?

Aftermarket. Slight filing on the intake manifold. I have a photo of the filing but am such a dumbass that I can't post photos on CC.

I have HO manifolds on 2 REnix Jeeps. Requires a later model downpipe, with an O2 sensor bung welded into it and a fitting welded on to the manifold for the EGR tube.

No need to drain on a 4.0.

Throttle Position Sensor and distributor. Cover them with sandwich bags.

Yup. And it's hard for us to see from our monitors. Clean and check. That's why I did the write-up. So ANYONE with decent eyesight and a dim flashlight could diagnose their own leaks.

Yup. It's just fine to do.