cruiser54

By some freak accident, I already had it that way!! It will work fine. Thanks again.

Okay then. I'll keep linking folks to the thread then. Thanks.

Pretty much. I was wondering if it was by itself though. It's probably the best write-up I've seen.

Pink/purple pipe to heater control valve. Black one to heater controls. Ball is in the passenger side front bumpeer and has a line running to it from the intake manifold and the other provides vacuum to the black line to the heater control. I just move the ball to the engine compartment.

Nice lift. What about the rear plates being rock magnets though? Speaking of leaf springs, anybody got a spare leaf with the clamps on it? Mine busted.

I don't mean to thread jack. Just was wondering. You said "the pipe is back away from the RMS area" by that do you mean that a RMS leak won't drip on the cross pipe? I've had a leak on the cross pipe for awhile and havn't started my search for where its coming from, but was hoping it wasn't the RMS. Use THIS to diagnose your oil leaks. I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$#!& flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013 thats what I've been doing. I was just hoping maybe if its dripping on the crosspipe then it could be said that it isn't the RMS. Its the one possible leak point that I don't want to have to fix.Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$#!& flows downhill".

I don't mean to thread jack. Just was wondering. You said "the pipe is back away from the RMS area" by that do you mean that a RMS leak won't drip on the cross pipe? I've had a leak on the cross pipe for awhile and havn't started my search for where its coming from, but was hoping it wasn't the RMS. Use THIS to diagnose your oil leaks. I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013

Uncle Bob is full of $#!& as usual!! LOL.

Is there a link to just the write-up with the photos and diagrams?

Do this while you're at it. We all get tired of the oil film/leak on top of our 4.0 Jeep aluminum valve covers. Many times the biggest culprit is the loose fitting oil filler cap. Here’s a real easy fix: Remove the plastic oil filler cap and wrestle the original rubber gasket from it using a small pick or screwdriver. Make a duplicate of the gasket out of an old bicycle inner tube using scissors and a knife or razor blade. Install the duplicate on the cap first, and then the original over top of it. It will be a tight fit on the valve cover the first time, and may require some persuasion with a pair of pliers, but will get easier with time.

This would make a great write-up. Got pics?

All depends on your skill level. Is it worth it rather than this? Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

Felpro will be just fine. Put it on dry. Tighten the bolts evenly from the center to the outside.

Pure frickin genius!! Did you use a slide rule? I'm about 99% sure all this mathmatical stuff is 100% bull$#!& regarding your issues with overheating.

Hopefully that's it. Would be interesting to have the "old" one checked out by a radiator shop.

Not at all. Ya done good.

I knew it would! I never knew about those ground wires in the wiring harness. I found them while putzing around on the 88. 54 to 78 ohms of resistance while wiggling the harness!! Not so good signals to the eCU from some very critical sensors.....

Click on the link in my signature below. I changed the color and text size.

You just made my day. Thanks for posting this up.

Grab an eCU from an 89 or 90 with the auto trans from the junkyard and you should be good to go.

On the driver's side inner fender is a white ceramic resistor mounted near the air cleaner. Battery voltage goes in one side and a reduced voltage comes out to the fuel pump to reduce noise. If it's bad, no power to fuel pump. Fine to bypass it.

86 was also TBI. OP needs to be sure the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor on the firewall is in good ahape. If it isn't, the thing will run pig-rich and foul plugs badly.

Simple fixes are the best. Keep us in the loop.

Got it all out through the galley plugs. Verified through the freeze plugs. Water hose through water pump opening.

I have experienced the sediment in the galley. Clean water during a flush. Sediment only removed by removing block plug/CTS and flushing through water pump opening.