cruiser54

Test the CPS first. You've got my instructions, right? Make sure your CPS is plugged into the correct connector. If the harness came from a donor that had the cPS wiring mod done, you could be plugging the CPS into a "dead" connector.

Rod bearings get bad fast. If it's staying consistent, and has been, it's probably some piston slap. How's your oil pressure? And, what brand of oil filter are you using now?

That fixed it?

Make sure the bolt is tight that holds the dizzy down.

And that mixes up unknowing original posters.

How about say nothing if you're not sure?

New what on? Did you ever do the connector refreshing in the engine bay? There are some connectors over behind the battery that can get corroded. IIRC, the trigger wire for the alternator runs through them.

Not really. That's what the knock sensor was for. It was to reduce emissions. Do you just pull $#!& out of your hat and post it up? Consider the folks that are relying on intelligent, well informed answers. You're doing them a real dis-service.

You're 100% sure of that? For about 40 years I've been pulling plug wires to check for rod knock. Combustion gone and knock is gone. Sounds like shooting from the hip and inaccurate bull$#!& to me......

Stick with the Redline on the BA-10.

That's eXACTLY why to do the sensor ground upgrade!!!!

I was hoping someone would chime in with a good gear oil to use.

Probably because you needed new plugs anyway. I will never use Bosch again as I have done back to back tests with them versus NGKs. Both times I was fighting a driveability problem for someone else. Out with bosch, in with NGKs. Problem solved.

Change the gear lube in it and make sure the level is fine. drive it. Oh, and an HO is no huge improvement over your good old Renix motor.

Where do c3 and c4 get their inputs?

I don't see a C3 and C4 in my manual. Please verify and tell us what you think this will accomplish.

You didn't do the ground fix?

Spray Brake-Kleen on a rag and wipe it down?

Did you check the bolts for tightness or just gander up there?

Here's 2 links for ya. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-fix-flexplate-knocking-125547/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/found-way-see-crack-my-flexplate-before-removal-171945/

NGK plugs and Taylor Lightning wires.

Test the CPS: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting 　 　 Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8" from the stock 5/16", or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. 　 　 Revised 01-26-2013 Fuel should be SPRAYING out. Get a fuel pressure tester and check the pressures.

Let us know what you find.

Rotate the engine to #1 TDC and see if the rockers feel loose . Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC 　 With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out.You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

Have you ever clicked on the link in my signature and done the Ground Refreshing, Connector refreshing?