cruiser54

how else am i supposed to know if it's tight, just because it looks tight doesn't mean it is, advance proved that with my starter, Redwolf Meaning?

It's a 90. What's the 10th digit in the VIN? An L?

Did you put a wrench/socket on all the track bar bracket bolts and steering box bolts?

BAD idea. You're replacing one 20+ year old part with another 20+ year old part that's going to be just as bad. There's a replacement socket, with pigtails, that's in the HELP! aisle at most of the auto parts chains that's a perfect fit. It's not listed for Jeeps, it's listed for some Ford vehicle or other, but it works perfectly. Just take in your old socket and match up the tabs on the bayonet lock mount. This^^.

Yup. Hornbrod did it for y'all!!!

I'll send it to Hornbrod and have him do it.

Refresh the ground for the fuel pump and sending unit behind the driver's side taillamp assembly.

My 90 does the "Chrysler thing" but my 88 did not. It does now. I have the write-up if anyone wants it.

Bad ground at the driver's side socket.

Swap the bulbs side to side and see what happens.

2 harnesses. One for one set of bulbs, one for the other.

Got a part number for that?

I stole your photo!! Thanks. LOL.

You got REnix bearings with the offset tangs.

Click on the link in my signature and find the "connector and relay refreshing" post. There's a critical 10 pin connector you need to look at.

Headlight switch is getting overheated and the circuit breaker inside it is tripping. Put an auxiliary headlight harness in your MJ and enjoy long-lived headlight switches and headlights that are about 40% brighter. Need links to harnesses? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7X6-/330813121438?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d05ffa39e

Tighen up the stuff we suggested first.

Yup. That,too. Gotta poke your noggin under the Jeep and put your mitts on stuff.

Correct. They all are.

Normal. It is on a slight angle.

Tighten all the track rod bracket bolts on the driver's side frame rail even if they appear tight.

And when you get done with the alternator issue, do this: Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. Revised 03-04-2013 And this: I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one . Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012

I think your TPS is taking a dump.

You're doing alot of stuff right. Kinda like eating an elephant. One bite at a time.

Supply and demand. Manual trans were not common at all.