cruiser54

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=compression+testers&tag=googhydr-20&index=automotive&hvadid=1144960541&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8941910265002084&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8mg4qjl79j_b

Gasket scraper for me.

I'll bet the gauge is wonky. Vatozone, you know.

I love that whole write up but I have an 89 Mj so no c101 connector, If you mean the ECU connector I'm sure it wouldn't hurt anything for me to refresh tha tconnector so this weekend while I'm messing with it I will do that anyway. Do you know which bulbs go in which sockets in the tail lights? I love that whole write up but I have an 89 Mj so no c101 connector, If you mean the ECU connector I'm sure it wouldn't hurt anything for me to refresh tha tconnector so this weekend while I'm messing with it I will do that anyway. Do you know which bulbs go in which sockets in the tail lights? The connector I'm referring to is the one for the front lights, the one in the photo. You should do the Ground Refreshing, Connector Refreshing, the ICM to Coil contact refreshing anyways.

Correct! I'm only test driving it to pinpoint the noise, Plan was to swap in the correct ratio gears, but another project got in the way. I sure hope I don't have to replace those intermediate shaft bearings. If I install a one piece shaft can I do away with them? The bearing is easy. It's what causes it to go bad that's the problem...bent housing!!

You need to replace/clean the CCV lines, especially the one from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold. also, the grommet in the valve cover may have swelled nearly closed.

So you can't shift into 4Wd now because of different ratios? I've seen the little bearing between the intermediate shaft and right hand axle shaft go bad. The noise is there in 2wd, but gone in 4wd. Usually due to a bent front axle tube.

Click on the link in my signature and go to the post about connector refreshing. there's a photo of a connector which could be the source of your problem.

It seems to be more noticeable on the 2.5s for some reason.

this is no joke ! i had a broken wire going to the TPS ...talk about drive you nuts !! That was found how?

Remember the CPS windows. You cannot put a 91+ flywheel into a Renix truck. It will not run. A Renix 4.0 must have an 87-90 flywheel. Beat me to it. absolutely correct.

Yep. Click on the link in my signature and do the ground refreshing and C101 cleaning to begin with. Pull a plug and see how it looks. They're due for plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 30,000 miles.

Double check the cap.

Go to Napa and buy a 703-1396 cap for that bottle. Seals tighter and holds a bit more pressure. Leave the stat alone. For less than $10, you could have this problem licked

Paradise: Check your dizzy indexing. Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap. Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw. Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor. If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block. Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole. Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position. Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position. Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal . Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved. Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections. Revised 07/03/2012 Need pics, check out the link in my signature.

Only reason I ask is I saw one at the JY. A piece of pipe with the radiator switch in it. I snagged it for use on my son-in-law's project jeep.

So it has the fan switch n the lower radiator hose?

You really should do a ground refreshing, sensor ground test, and connector/relay refreshing before this below. click on the link in my signature for the info you need. RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up. IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. MANUAL TRANSMISSION: RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have only a flat three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body and it provides data input to the ECU. It has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over. Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles, as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES: Check the square four-wire connector side of the TPS. If you have ENGINE ISSUES check the flat three-wire connector side of the TPS. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. Revised 09-22-2012

Do your turn signals work? It's common for the brown wire at the ignition switch to melt and you lose blower, turn signals, and something else.

Good tune-up. Cap and rotor with brass contacts, Napa wires. NGK or champion Copper plugs only. CPS can be tested.....

You'll be crapping in tall cotton real soon!!!!

No. The aluminum dealie whopper that the metal fan bolts to.

Did you unplug the wires individually?

How's it coming along?

Wanna bet? According to my Renix MJ diagram, the reverse light circuit is fed by a 7.5 amp TRANS fuse. Correct. I just tested this a minute ago an my 1987 2.5/AX5 manual transmission: ignition on, shifter in reverse to turn the reverse lights on. I then pulled the 7.5 amp trans fuse and the reverse lights went out. I woke up this morning knowing someone would try this overnight. Thanks.