cruiser54

Perfect. Thanks. All in a name, eh?

for future reference, turn the signals on. Touch each flasher with your finger. The one you can feel clicking fast is the culprit.

Got all the ground wires attached at the engine dipstick tube stud? Clean and shiny? Done tip 5 lately?

Yes. Do it.

See if the injectors have good ground and a voltage signal upon cranking.

Yes. Documentation in the form of notes. which lead to this: CRUISER’S VALVE COVER MOD NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 33 COMMENTS Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, drill a half inch hole as shown in the photo. The flat side of the flute that’s closest to the edge of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets. Are you smoking something? You never helped with my website. That was Ross Halliday aka Salad on Cherokee Forum. He got the domain name and server, and then did the initial population of the site until I could get up to speed. You were nice enough to work with me BEFORE my website with a sticky here on Comanche Club. And then I realized it was too much of a hassle for the moderators on Jeep forum, NAXJA and here. Hence, my reaching out to Ross. And, what would that have to do with the fix of the oil into the air cleaner anyway? I will repeat this. I DID NOT invent everything on my website. Most came from notes I wrote while speaking with the field engineers at JeepTech. Some other things were learned along the way. They are proven. They work. I don't do it for the attention, to boost my ego, or out of any kind of arrogance. So, why the ball busting? It doesn't just irritate me. It irritates others trying to learn and fix their Comanches using solid methodology and personalized help. I guess to some folks it's more important to make themselves look better by belittling others, criticizing them because they know something you don't. You think I make money on this? Oh yeah, the Donation button on my site. Whoopy $#!&. Doesn't even pay the costs of the server....... Look who is dancing around. You.

Nope. Not a profit making shortcut. Warranty repair as needed. I didn't do that shortcut profit $#!&. We were legit. We were one of the few dealerships that had direct access to JeepTech as a result of our dedication to problem solving. A phone call away. I'm still in contact with one of those guys to this day, and I left the dealership in 1992. They gave us fixes for things that never came out as TSBs as well as some that did, but we got them sooner. That's what "the book" is as shown on my website's front page with an explanation. Ever read that or visited, or is that beneath you somehow? Why do you diss on all the Renix stuff and it's support system? Most Comanches were Renix for crying out loud. You think that $#!& helps anyone? It's getting really old. If you can contribute to the HO stuff, go ahead. That's your bailiwick anyway. Not mine. You know way more about that than I do. What in your persona is driving you to discredit most everything I post? If it's not from you, it's somehow bull$#!&? Other folks' experiences don't count? Get over yourself.

That "hack" came from JeepTech before the HO came out.......pretty much Renix specific I think. And, brake fluid has been used to soften seals for over 50 years. I didn't invent it. I just used it a lot. And, I've seen the empirical results of others using it. I wouldn't just recommend something like that willy nilly.....

Quit drinking over a month ago. What works works. Just because you have no experience using it, doesn't make it bad. Well, except to you..............

Brake fluid works great. softens, not swells, the seals. Likely what's in the Lucas stuff. Why believe someone who has used it for decades with proven results? You know me. Always giving off the cuff unsupported bull$#!& answers with no experience to back them up............... The great DonHOni knows all!!!!!!!!!!!!! Buy Lucas.

2 capfuls of brake fluid in the power steering rezzy and drive it. Has worked numerous times for me.

Ever do this? Originally by TJWalker of CherokeeForum & JeepForum The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body (front for ’87-’90). The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present. CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On ’91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling. “Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it. Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner. It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled.

Ain't that the truth. I broke my left elbow in a bizarre fall 3 weeks ago. Had surgery and now on the mend.

Pressure test the cooling system. That looks like old crap from a thermostat housing leak.

Nope. Somebody here has to have a good one laying around.

clean the throttle body..................... Originally by TJWalker of CherokeeForum & JeepForum The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body (front for ’87-’90). The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present. CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On ’91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling. “Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it. Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner. It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled.

also check out the connector featured below. I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.

Yes.

Nah. Only made police packages 91 and later.

We're enjoying our 98 Grand. I put all 4 power locks/latch combos in it yesterday. What a b*@ch for a guy with big hands and recovering from broken elbow surgery 2 weeks ago.

Uh-oh. I have to deal with you over here also? Just kidding.

Some folks are slow to catch on.....LOL.

Bought the lot from a shop that sold. I will sell them on ebay.

Yep. I wouldn't be thinking a harness would need replacement...... Do the Tips!!

I think you got some misinformation somewhere along the line.