omega_rugal

OR put an overflow tank...

use any hose that fits... air goes there, nothing else...

no one mentions the ford 8.8 so must be a bad choice... also, is the zjs D44 that bad? so even a turdyfive is better?

anybody has one?

do an XJ swap... how come you have a rear D44 in a short bed? some OP swapped it?

bad ignition switch? pretty obvious

$1800? with that you can buy a working XJ, take the AW4 and part the rest...

Just sold my 1995 Zj... to sav eup for a 96-98 ZJ

You need the axle, front shaft, Transfer case and transmission (the BA10 has diferent spline count) and a shorter rear shaft of course you also need the shfiter linkage...

a battery usually overheats when too much voltage is sent to it OR when 2 or more cells have a shortcircuit btw don´t use it again until you test it or it will blow up and relase acid and toxic fumes everywhere...

bad battery

steam? hissing? from where? is that an open or closed system?

the 2.5 has the same chevy pattern, shouldn´t apply too?

get a 700R4 from a S-10

if you have the 2.8 shouldn´t a GM auto tranny work? get a complete 4.0+aw4+tcase combo from an XJ, you current setup will be difficult to upgrade...

everything from the front doors, drivetrain everything except the rear axle, requieres frabrication, not a bolt in swap...the rest of the unibody doesn`t fit

you can swap the whole door...

revving up under load i meant...

weird, a bad pump will no let you revup enough to get to 4th or 5th gear... sounds like a timing issue...

for an inline 6 or a crossplane V8, running at 2500-3000 is not stressful, in a way is a good rpm range to be in, with air, oil and coolant flowing at a good rate... in a inline 4 or a V6 running at those revs or more means the internal components literally fight to stay together due the imbalanced designs, OD helps in this case

running at peak torque doesn not directly translate into better MPGs, quicker acceleration and response but guess what it takes? gasoline...

what grinds? the tarsmission? soudns like a differential problem

at cruise, you move at a steady speed, the engine delivers almost full torque WITH VERY LITTLE RESISTENCE, lock the converter while standing still and with high revs and watch it it gooooo! a properly working TCU will never apply the lock up unless the right conditions are met, you said doing it manually...

and if you have bad luck, @#$% up the lock-up clutch, is small and it was designed to work only at highway speeds where engine torque is minimal, it can`t withstand the engine`s full torque you are kidding right? the TCU senses how fast the output shaft turns and uses 2 solenoids to route hydraulic pressure inside the transmission to apply or release clutches and band that control the gear reduction, see? very simple! of course you can but you must flipp it at the very right speed or else the transmission will hicup (like when you suddenly let go off the clutch after shifting a manual) ... keep doing it and you`ll eventally kill the clutches and the tranny itself...

"stop and go" is where gasoline goes down the drain, kicks the ECU out of closed loop in order to give you a quick start, even if it switches back as soon as you release the pedal, and with a stroker and bigger inyectors is to be expected...