omega_rugal

i have the old style dash, with the large fuel gauge instead of a more useful tach, is it posible to dissassembly the old dash and replace the FG with the tach? or it doesn`t bolt up? i can wire it up manually but i don`t know if it physicaly fits...

then you have to settle with a fixed bias...

the dual pattern was supposed to increase low end torque right?

so no one has though of installing a lever insde the cab to change the braking bias?? ex. keep the MJ proportioning and load sensing valves, unhook the lever from the diff, use your brain to hook a cable from there to the cab, that way you can control the braking power on the fly...

youa re mixing renix efi with a 96+ block?

a bad temp switch may do that too, leaks current as it warms up... mine does that...

what he says...

isn`t that a better AW4?

whoa it must have been welded shut to prevent the engine from starting---

are the valves opening? same thing happens when a timing belt breaks, cranks but no start... also remove the dizzy cap and see if it`s turning... if still doesn`t work pour gasoline and set it on fire because it`s cursed, CURSED I TELL YOU!!!!

if you have spark, the ECU is reading the CPS properly, is not the CPS...

it`s a manual, why would you do that?

he`s got the 2.5, so it`s a AX5 not AX15...

AX15 all the way...

heat gun?

you get spark so the CPS is good, leave it alone for now puttin gasoline / starter fluid directly in the air intake and "tries" to run... check for compression and see if the valves are actually opening all the way...

mine have this too

http://www.virtualengine2000.com/ProgramDownload.htm sorrry

found a virtual engine app... i`ll try that

as i was going to crack my skull doing the math, i realized that this may have been done before, this is the dealio: i need the make a chart of the amount of air a 4.0 sucks in per minute, this varies because of rpms, air temp, and the cam profile in use , lift, duration and advance alter the amount of air that enter/leaves the cylinder, i need renix era values preferibly if someone can spare me the headache i will really apreciate it

5 years? so you are just topping it off as it burns?

If you wanna save on oil, switch to LPG, it`s been 6 months since the last change and still looks very clean, dipstick comes out so clear that you can`t see the level. the previous change lasted 8 months and only changed it because it began to breakdown and evaporate, didn`t get as dirty as when it ran on gasoline, gasoline turned it into sludge after 3 months...

so what about oil coolers? do they help? since cooler oil means healthier oil...

That`s what i was talking about

it`s not your oil cap, either the PCV valve is stuck, the lines are clogged or the engine is worn and blowby is pushing the oil out