omega_rugal

like, a lot... all conections have been checked, no loose wires, the only way to get it to crank as before is connecting the 2 batteries together... i had a similar problem years ago with a ford escort, starter failed overnight, turned out to be worn carbon brushes... i´ll drop the starter next saturday...

so the last weekend i took the mj to do some chores, it worked fine as usual and was parked for the las 3 days. this afternoon i try to turn it on but the starter is too heavy, my first diagnostic was that the battery was discharged (i may have left something on) tried another know-to-be-good battery but nopé, same thing, it tries to hard to start then it catches up and runs, next step is drop the starter to see what´s wrong but, how does this happen? can the started run fine and then $#!& on you next day?

you can take the hoses out and plug the thermostat outlet and screw a cap on the return tube...

so?

is it a dana 35? what if you have a amc 20

you need to drill them and use an extractor...

depends on your version of engine... update your signature

nissan tsuru (sentra in the us) not exaclty, i had to wait for it to coo downl, otherwise you can touch it, so it wasn´t operating temp neither cold i´ll check clearences again, just to make sure...

i know the 4.0 doesn´t require valve adjustments this is for another engine, i´m looking for advice from seasoned mechanics since i´m not one, i just take things apart and put them back togheter. i have a tsuru b13 with the e16s, it´s a single overhead camshaft, i had have it for like a year or so, and ever since i got it i has a weird ticking noise i always though it came from the valve train so i finally ventured to open it and see if i could fix it, after taking off the cover turns out pistons 2 and 3 had no gap in the valves so i adjusted them following a youtube tutorial (yes, i did it) weird because i expected them to have a large gap somewhere, after checking all the valves i put the cover back and fire it up, next i´ll try to explain the best i can: before: cranking speed was good, sometimes fired up quickly, sometimes it didn´t power was ok but had to give it some gas to not stall while cold, when hot worked fine after: cranking speed is slower, as if the engine was too heavy or the battery is discharged but once it begins turning works fine i feel a noticeable increase in low end power, no longer stalls at idle and overall it feels more torquey noise remains... now i suspect the timing belt or tensioner... i´m more than happy with the power improvement but i don´t like the starter like that, my theory is that by adjusting the clearence in pistons 2 and 3 fixed an unnoticed compression leak but in the same time the starter now has to work harder... or did i @#$%ed up? please move the topic if it shouldn´t be here...

my words exactly, that way i know if it´s getting power...

nothing, but apparently the pump is toooo noisy for some...

you can get a few more miles out of a dying pump bypassing the resistor... but yes, bypassing the resistor should be the exception not the rule

that´s what i don´t want to do haha but i had to ask...

one simple question: does the throttle body of a tbi 2.5l physicly bolts to a renix 4.0 manifold? is for a school project

so the truck actually rolls back in gear? wow that´s some major internal damage like clutches not grabbing but if happens after $#!&fs the somethign is stuck/plugged in the vavle body... try changing fluid and filter... but your aw4 seems to be on its last leg

once you do, take the ba10/5 apart, bet theres at least one collar stuck in gear...

that´s a stupid law considering anyone can tamper an odometer...

bad luck man, the $$$ that it will cost to drop it, see what´s wrong and fix it does not worth a ba10 you have to options: find an ax15 in good shape that don´t cost an arm or a leg or get a cheap beat doen xj donor, take the aw4 and sell the rest, or keep it for parts...

looks good,see if you can bargain a few dollars for the mandatory upgrades...

my condolences...

all have them, even the one´s that use individual coils, in this case only the CAM POSITION SENSOR aka SYNC SIGNAL with no distribuitor it says right here http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Cam_Position_Sensor_and_Sync_Pulse_Stator.htm wait, what do you mean by "Boost"?

what about the cam position sensor ? you know the one inside the distributor? if the ecu can´t get a proper sync signal to fire the inyectors it will use a random order, the engine will run but may or may not run right...

closed system + leak = your problem... there should be no leaks...

the ba10-5 looks like had provisions for a external slave... http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html "Inside the bellhousing of the Peugeot, it looked like it had the ability to have the external slave unit bolted to it. There was a place on the right side for a ball stud for the pivot point of the release fork/bearing such as on the AX-15. However, the Peugeot would require holes to be drilled for the studs to hold the slave unit on the side as in the AX-15." go figure

was so difficult to put an spacer so the coil doesn´t touch the engine, preferibly made of a non conductive material?