Jump to content

mfendley

Members
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Woodbine, GA

mfendley's Achievements

Can Spell Comanche

Can Spell Comanche (2/11)

  1. Thanks HOrdbrod. Oddly enough, the diagram that most closely resembles the Comanche install is the Wrangler with 6 cyl. The Comanche w/ 6 cyl (24-1700) has the compressor on the driver's side, where ours is on the passenger side.
  2. Yes! Although this AC is a little different style (I suspect they changed halfway through the model year) I should be able to look at a 92 and see what I need. Appreciate the link.
  3. Thanks to all of the help received from the forum, we have my son's Comanche running great. How I'm turning to the AC to get that working. Since all of the parts are so dated, my intent to to replace everything (since swapping the condenser and dryer did not fix the leak issue). I can only find the suction and discharge lines listed. I don't know what to call the third line - but I don't see it listed anywhere. Does anyone have a diagram and/or part numbers for the AC lines? Also, these replacement lines (as well as the original lines) do not have the high side and low side ports; these are located on an adapter block that screws on to the two ports of the compressor. What is this part called? Anywhere to buy these - or is there a kit to rebuild the valves in this block?
  4. If you ever have to change lanes in a hurry, and you don't have a sway bar - you may lose your truck. Here's another data point. My Power Wagon has electronic disconnect for the sway bar. If I come out of 4-low, or exceed 18 mph, it automatically re-connects. A PW is a great deal heavier than a MJ, but it still applies.
  5. I did find the the CPS sheath and wire had come into contact with the exhaust manifold and melted down to one of the wires (didn't check which one before discarding). When I did the resistance check, it was 77K ohms, compared to the 91M ohms of the new one. I wonder if this now shorted to ground signal wire connected to the ECU caused a component to fail? This was a Cardone unit that I had purchased from Rock Auto, so I wasn't 100% sure it was the best fit for the vehicle. It had been swapped out when my son went through water after IRMA and shorted out the distributor and computer.
  6. SUCCESS!!! The 56027532 (used) arrived today, and I installed it prior to installing the new distributor or fuel pressure regulator. Started right up, so I went for a quick test drive, since we have been able to repeat the issue in 6-10 minutes. Drove it 30 minutes without an issue, so I turned the keys over to my some who have been driving it the last two hours. Other than stopping for gas, the engine has not been off, and has not skipped a beat. Thanks to everyone here for the assistance. I going to find another one of these ECU's - one this this has taught me is to build up a cache of spares, becuase some of the parts are getting hard to find.
  7. Great, just picked one up.
  8. HOrnbrod, is the distributor plug on the 94 the same as the 91 version?
  9. Thought I had found the issue. Decided to swap the CPS, since last one was a "cheap" one from Rock Auto. Dealer did not have any in stock, but was able to find one at NAPA. After swapping the sensor, noticed the old sensor had a melted shield and wire. Also changed the fuel pump ballast resistor at the same time. Went for a test drive, but the issue still exists. Threw the fuel pressure gauge on while is was sitting in the driveway. At 2500-3000, still misses, with no load on the engine, fuel pressure never dropped below 24 psi. I have an ECU coming (56027532) that will be here on Saturday. I also have an engine compartment wiring harness (from a junkyard) that I am going to go through wire by wire to ensure good connectivity and grounds, and will swap that. Any other ideas?
  10. Cruiser54, is there a troubleshooting guide for the post-Renix HOs? I was following the Renix guides trying to T/S my son's 91 Comanche, but some of the steps are different enough that I did not want to assume the modifications. For example, I pulled the connector for the TBS, and I could not see any markings. If the pins are A - B - C, then my grounds are on A, not B. Was less than one ohm, so I did not split the wiring loom to re-do the ground connections. I did replace the CPS, even though I wasn't getting any CEL other than 12 & 55. One of the bolts holding the CPS was loose, and the sheath had contact something that melted the sheath, and one of the wires. Even after replacing the CPS, we are still having the miss issue. I watched the engine miss at 2500-3000 rpm range when I had the fuel pressure gauge installed, and the fuel pressure never dropped below 25 psi.

     

    Could the partially grounded CPS (due to the melted wire) have cause an issue with the ECM? I have another ECM coming (that is the right number 56027532 provided by Hornbrod) so I'll get that swapped this weekend. 

     

    Any other ideas?

    1. cruiser54

      cruiser54

      Fuel pressure is too low. 

      Supposed to be 31 with the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator and 39 when disconnected. 

    2. mfendley

      mfendley

      Okay, haven't checked with the vacuum hose disconnected. Since I swapped out the pump and filter, should I get a new pressure regulator?

       

      Appreciate the help.

    3. cruiser54

      cruiser54

      Not necessarily, Test it again. 

  11. Thanks HOrnbrod. That is the coil and harness that I just installed when this issue started. I have the coil mounted just behind the passenger side shock tower. The harness that came with the coil was long enough to reach this location, but I did have to get a longer coil wire. Thanks for the ECU info, I will start searching for one of those. This morning's update; first I searched for OBD codes, still only received 12 and 55. Took awhile to get started, seems like there was still residue from the cleaner used to clean out the throttle body and MAF sensor. Once it finally started, it was blowing all kinds of white smoke, until it burned off all the cleaner and raw fuel from the cranking process. Finally smoothed out, and had a great idle. Went on a test drive, and about 6.5 minutes into the drive, started missing / cutting out. Checked the fuel pressure, was between 38 and 40 psi.
  12. I will check for codes this morning. Do you have the part numbers for the 94+ coil and ECU? Is it possible to go much newer to the coil pack setup, or is that too far of a jump?
  13. Unplug the ECU to get the part number, and reinstalled. Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, but everything back together - now it won't start. Cranks, and almost tries to start, but no go. I will charge the battery over night, and give it a go again in the morning.
  14. Is there any way to get a new ECU, or just find the correct part number our of a wrecking yard?
  15. I just looked. The APP985 are the plugs we pulled out, the AP985 are the plugs we installed. I will also look for some Champion 412 just in case.
×
×
  • Create New...