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mfendley

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Everything posted by mfendley

  1. mfendley
    Thanks HOrdbrod. Oddly enough, the diagram that most closely resembles the Comanche install is the Wrangler with 6 cyl. The Comanche w/ 6 cyl (24-1700) has the compressor on the driver's side, where ours is on the passenger side.
  2. mfendley
    Yes! Although this AC is a little different style (I suspect they changed halfway through the model year) I should be able to look at a 92 and see what I need. Appreciate the link.
  3. mfendley
    Thanks to all of the help received from the forum, we have my son's Comanche running great. How I'm turning to the AC to get that working. Since all of the parts are so dated, my intent to to replace everything (since swapping the condenser and dryer did not fix the leak issue). I can only find the suction and discharge lines listed. I don't know what to call the third line - but I don't see it listed anywhere. Does anyone have a diagram and/or part numbers for the AC lines? Also, these replacement lines (as well as the original lines) do not have the high side and low side ports; these are located on an adapter block that screws on to the two ports of the compressor. What is this part called? Anywhere to buy these - or is there a kit to rebuild the valves in this block?
  4. mfendley
    If you ever have to change lanes in a hurry, and you don't have a sway bar - you may lose your truck. Here's another data point. My Power Wagon has electronic disconnect for the sway bar. If I come out of 4-low, or exceed 18 mph, it automatically re-connects. A PW is a great deal heavier than a MJ, but it still applies.
  5. mfendley
    I did find the the CPS sheath and wire had come into contact with the exhaust manifold and melted down to one of the wires (didn't check which one before discarding). When I did the resistance check, it was 77K ohms, compared to the 91M ohms of the new one. I wonder if this now shorted to ground signal wire connected to the ECU caused a component to fail? This was a Cardone unit that I had purchased from Rock Auto, so I wasn't 100% sure it was the best fit for the vehicle. It had been swapped out when my son went through water after IRMA and shorted out the distributor and computer.
  6. mfendley
    SUCCESS!!! The 56027532 (used) arrived today, and I installed it prior to installing the new distributor or fuel pressure regulator. Started right up, so I went for a quick test drive, since we have been able to repeat the issue in 6-10 minutes. Drove it 30 minutes without an issue, so I turned the keys over to my some who have been driving it the last two hours. Other than stopping for gas, the engine has not been off, and has not skipped a beat. Thanks to everyone here for the assistance. I going to find another one of these ECU's - one this this has taught me is to build up a cache of spares, becuase some of the parts are getting hard to find.
  7. mfendley
    Great, just picked one up.
  8. mfendley
    HOrnbrod, is the distributor plug on the 94 the same as the 91 version?
  9. mfendley
    Thought I had found the issue. Decided to swap the CPS, since last one was a "cheap" one from Rock Auto. Dealer did not have any in stock, but was able to find one at NAPA. After swapping the sensor, noticed the old sensor had a melted shield and wire. Also changed the fuel pump ballast resistor at the same time. Went for a test drive, but the issue still exists. Threw the fuel pressure gauge on while is was sitting in the driveway. At 2500-3000, still misses, with no load on the engine, fuel pressure never dropped below 24 psi. I have an ECU coming (56027532) that will be here on Saturday. I also have an engine compartment wiring harness (from a junkyard) that I am going to go through wire by wire to ensure good connectivity and grounds, and will swap that. Any other ideas?
  10. mfendley

    Cruiser54, is there a troubleshooting guide for the post-Renix HOs? I was following the Renix guides trying to T/S my son's 91 Comanche, but some of the steps are different enough that I did not want to assume the modifications. For example, I pulled the connector for the TBS, and I could not see any markings. If the pins are A - B - C, then my grounds are on A, not B. Was less than one ohm, so I did not split the wiring loom to re-do the ground connections. I did replace the CPS, even though I wasn't getting any CEL other than 12 & 55. One of the bolts holding the CPS was loose, and the sheath had contact something that melted the sheath, and one of the wires. Even after replacing the CPS, we are still having the miss issue. I watched the engine miss at 2500-3000 rpm range when I had the fuel pressure gauge installed, and the fuel pressure never dropped below 25 psi.

     

    Could the partially grounded CPS (due to the melted wire) have cause an issue with the ECM? I have another ECM coming (that is the right number 56027532 provided by Hornbrod) so I'll get that swapped this weekend. 

     

    Any other ideas?

    1. cruiser54

      cruiser54

      Fuel pressure is too low. 

      Supposed to be 31 with the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator and 39 when disconnected. 

    2. mfendley

      mfendley

      Okay, haven't checked with the vacuum hose disconnected. Since I swapped out the pump and filter, should I get a new pressure regulator?

       

      Appreciate the help.

    3. cruiser54

      cruiser54

      Not necessarily, Test it again. 

  11. mfendley
    Thanks HOrnbrod. That is the coil and harness that I just installed when this issue started. I have the coil mounted just behind the passenger side shock tower. The harness that came with the coil was long enough to reach this location, but I did have to get a longer coil wire. Thanks for the ECU info, I will start searching for one of those. This morning's update; first I searched for OBD codes, still only received 12 and 55. Took awhile to get started, seems like there was still residue from the cleaner used to clean out the throttle body and MAF sensor. Once it finally started, it was blowing all kinds of white smoke, until it burned off all the cleaner and raw fuel from the cranking process. Finally smoothed out, and had a great idle. Went on a test drive, and about 6.5 minutes into the drive, started missing / cutting out. Checked the fuel pressure, was between 38 and 40 psi.
  12. mfendley
    I will check for codes this morning. Do you have the part numbers for the 94+ coil and ECU? Is it possible to go much newer to the coil pack setup, or is that too far of a jump?
  13. mfendley
    Unplug the ECU to get the part number, and reinstalled. Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor, but everything back together - now it won't start. Cranks, and almost tries to start, but no go. I will charge the battery over night, and give it a go again in the morning.
  14. mfendley
    Is there any way to get a new ECU, or just find the correct part number our of a wrecking yard?
  15. mfendley
    I just looked. The APP985 are the plugs we pulled out, the AP985 are the plugs we installed. I will also look for some Champion 412 just in case.
  16. mfendley
    I did a search online for the numbers you listed; and they list the 56005707 as being for an automatic - does that matter? We have a 5-speed.
  17. mfendley
    Autolite APP 985 gapped at 0.035". I will look for the Champion 412. At this point I am ready to try most anything. Still need to get a pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure, and clean out the intake.
  18. mfendley
    I don't see any of those numbers on the tag. I see a 798528, and a 201608257928091.
  19. mfendley
    Swapped all of the parts, seems to take a little longer to start missing (15 minutes instead of 5 or 6) but still have the issue. Will clean the TPS/IAC and throttle body tomorrow night. Here's a picture of the plugs that were removed, seem to have a pretty good pattern - no oil being burned, and not running too rich. I will also try replacing the resistor for the fuel pump.
  20. mfendley
    My son didn't know to wait a bit after the last move to on. I showed him the process, and we watched the codes flash 12 and 55. No other codes. Started to rain (from Hurricane Michael) so I'll have to wait a bit to swap the plugs, wires, rotor and cap.
  21. mfendley
    I had my son do it. I will try myself after work.
  22. mfendley
    Will clean these tonight; I can check the vacuum but I will have to pick up a pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure. Did just change the fuel pump and filter, so I hope it is not that. PITA to drop the tank again.
  23. mfendley
    BTW, I am located in SE Georgia, between Brunswick GA and Jacksonville FL. Is there anyone nearby with diagnostic equipment for this year of vehicle? It would be helpful to have equipment attached when this occurs, so I could see if this is a spark failing, or an interruption in signal to a fuel injector, or something else completely.
  24. mfendley
    No codes registered. Even though this truck is not driven often (my son's daily driver is a Renegade) it has been a couple of years since its last tuneup. Will get cap, rotor, wires and plugs swapped. Will also run some Seafoam or similar to ensure the injectors are clean. That way, I know that portion of the ignition has no breakdowns (shorts to ground).
  25. mfendley
    Changed the blower motor and resistor, blowing much better - except that there is no high speed. Have Low, Med1, Med2, but no high. Will have to figure that out later. More importantly, I received the NOS coil and voltage reducing harness (no bracket, but I was able to re-purpose the old one. Relocated the coil behind the passenger shock tower. Still have the occasional miss, after the engine warms up. Did note that this only occurs over 2750 rpm; lower than that and it runs fine. Any other ideas? Still have to go check the trouble codes, will report back what I find.
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