SVPete

For the top and rear door window channel (door glass run), I pulled the weatherstripping from a four-door Cherokee in the Tucson Pull-a-Part. This is readily available from several sources (rockauto for one, $18 each), but this part doesn't break down like the front window weatherstripping on the triangle window. It was there, looked newer/in better shape than mine, so I got it. For the front window weatherstripping (called a glass division bar), I found a good match on the rear window of a Volvo or Hyundai. I can't remember the make/model I pulled it from, but it was an import for sure. The weatherstripping was rubber and pliable, a little bit shorter than the original. I didn't want to spend $45 + (each) for the exact part new. I would rather wander around someplace man-interesting like a junkyard or hardware store just thinking and looking (kind if like window shopping, but not wanting to pun about it) . I have another set of triangle windows needing the glass division bar, so I will make sure to note the make/model when I repair them. The outside window scraper seal (belt weatherstrip) which also deteriorates, again, I got off a Cherokee. These are available from rockauto for $25 for a set (pieces for both windows). The inside scraper seal, which is typically in good shape, runs about $9 each from rockauto.

If you are referring to the rubber trim piece around the rear window, it is not weather stripping. Merely a trim piece that is not manufactured anymore. So be extremely careful if you attempt to remove it. It seems like the weather stripping around the actual glass in the rear window frame deteriorates leading to leaks. The top and rear weather stripping for the door windows is one piece and removal is simply pinch and pull. If you need to replace the front weather stripping for the door window (likely since it hardens and breaks apart, called a glass division bar), it is best to pull the triangle window since that piece of w/s has a rivet near the bottom to secure it in place. This involves removing the door panel and disconnecting the window glass from the regulator, It's not thaaat hard. If I paint my doors again this summer I will video the disassembly. But that doesn't help you now.

Out of interest...why did you cut the section out of the passenger door?

When my seat was re-covered, the upholstery shop placed a carpet tile between the bottom seat springs and the foam padding to give the seat back some firmness. The material they used also had a foam backing to it. I am happy with it. The depression where my butt goes is gone.

Geez - tailgate thieves? Never heard of this. What is the incentive? For thrills?

Your photo had me confused until I figured out it is the passenger door....I went and looked at my truck and see the same thing. Having taken out the triangle windows, I recall noticing a residue similar to that on the screws and on the top of the brackets that the screws go into. Perhaps is was there to provide a weather seal for the screw holes. Exactly what is it? I don't know. Maybe try using some closed cell foam weather stripping to replace it if you pull out the triangle windows. You can find that at any hardware store.

I made a "clip" out of thin sheet metal to hold the grommet in place from the inside and then applied some RTV around the grommet from the outside and inside to seal it.

Did you clean out the tank? If not, I suggest you look at your pickup filter again just to make sure it isn't clogged up again.

Saw your photo and it reminded me of a problem we had with a CUCV during Desert Shield. Paint chips (from the interior of the metal fuel cans) were clogging the filter on the end of the pickup tube. It took us a while to figure that out. Truck ran fine at idle, but when you tried to drive, it would die. We cleaned out the tank and cleaned off the pickup filter and the problem was solved. When the symptoms occurred on another vehicle a few months later, we went straight to the fuel tank and solved the problem. The things you forget and then remember. Man, the bumper number was A122.

The tapered end of the lug wrench works just fine.....

I scuffed the foam and glue off lightly with sandpaper.

And there are two velcro patches at the rear of the headliner, right around the curve on the headliner shell towards back glass. You will have to pull with some force to get the velcro to separate....but gently like Jeep Driver said.....if that makes any sense. You don't want to jack up the shell too badly. If the velcro peels off the headliner shell, you can glue it back on or replace it.

In my limited experience, a common problem for manual window regulators is the internal spring-looking-rod-thing the window actually attaches to, gets worn down in one area. The effect you hear/feel is a clicking/ratcheting noise in that spot and the window will no longer go up/down unless you pull/push the glass (pull up usually). Solution one: swap the internal spring-rod-thing from the left side to the right side (and vice versa). It's pretty easy. This may work to repair the passenger window regulator (moving the driver's regulator spring-rod-thing over), but I've noticed (in my limited experience) that the passenger spring-rod-thing tends to exhibit a lot of corrosion on the end of it which makes it unusable. You'll know when you pull them out. Solution two: find manual window regulators at the junkyard from a Cherokee. They do exist....then follow solution one. The internal spring-rod-thing is the same in the front and rear doors of a Cherokee. The shape of the regulators obviously is different, but the internal piece you likely need is exactly the same (I've used them to repair mine and they looked like they were hardly used). Sorry that I don't know the "technical" name...

You need: Card stock Headliner foam backed cloth (looks like your visors are leaning on some in the photos) Headliner spray glue and maybe a good wife..... I recreated the card stock interior with cardboard, using the deteriorated card stock as a template After the job was done, I found a large enough piece of card stock that came in some packaging at work (actually, I started seeing it everywhere). So look through trash for the first item. Big pieces might come from packaging for flat screen TV's, separating plastic panels, etc. While the cardboard is pretty robust, if I had to do it over again, I would use the thinner card stock since a sewing machine would likely be able to stitch the edges. My wife hand-stitched the edge of my sloppy job which made it look like a professional did it. Cost = Free.....? The foam backed cloth I got from Amazon. Cloth is sold by the yard (36 inches) and generally comes in a width of around 52-60 inches. So buying two yards will get you a piece of cloth that is about 72 inches by 52-60 inches. This is enough to screw up doing the headliner once and then do it right with the wife's help. I was fortunate to be able to save about half of the screw up job, which was enough to do the visors. If you are just doing the visors, then one yard is plenty. Cost = about $25 for two yards, I didn't get the expensive stuff, obviously. The headliner spray glue can be obtained from any auto parts store (or other places). I've used both the 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive (item number 38808) and Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive (item number 27828, which I got from AutoZone). One can is enough to do the visors. I'd go with at least three cans for the headliner and visors together. Cost = $13 a can for the Permatex spray and $20 a can for 3M from AutoZone.

Can I live without it? Sure. Am I happy I have it? Yes. I have the column where I want it, not where someone else wanted it. If you are going to be the only person behind the wheel, take your pick. I'm 5'11" and my wife is 5'1". If she drives the truck, the column gets moved.

Price aside, it looks okay. It is likely that many have added some type of "bling" to our vehicle that really didn't do much other than we liked it.

Check the 7.5 amp fuse marked TRANS. The reverse lights run through that fuse.

Yes, number 20.

Look at this. https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/37167-loose-steering-wheel-fix/?tab=comments#comment-373470

Since you have a tilt column, it it loose? Meaning, does it wiggle up and down at the pivot joint? If so, fix it and you should be able to have the covers off to re-paint them. If the column isn't loose, then I wouldn't go through the disassembly. I was looking for the photos which outlined the repair, but can't seem to the the thread that I think linked to an XJ forum. It was tedious, but really not that hard.

If you are referring to the plastic rivets that hold the rubber type flap attached to the front of the fender liner......again, I used regular, old 1/4 inch bolts, nuts, and fender washers.

I punched out the broken studs and used regular old 1/4 inch coarse thread bolts, nuts, and fender washers. I don't live in the rust belt, but I concur with Dzimm's caution. I might have to take them off again in another 25 years......or sooner.

Huh? I pretty sure the "extra trim piece" is not items 3, 4, or 5. Those are the "clamps" that hold the flare to the fender. I think there is just an optical/lighting illusion in the photo which makes the fender liner blend into the lip of the flare. BTW - the fender liners I got via amazon were made in Taiwan and have gaps also, but not quite as large as schardiens and I had to enlarge some of the push pin holes to get them to line up. But for about $25 total, I'm happy.

I am more confused now. Edit: saw some pictures of the CA-3116, I'm pretty sure that is NOT what I have.

If I understand your post above correctly, the cable you are holding is CA-3068, which has the plastic connector on the speedometer end.