zomeizter

Yeah man, that is the plan...about the POR 15, that is the same as the Rust-Oleum stuff right? Also, I have found the source for the moisture on the floor, the top of the windshield is letting water in. Is it just a matter of removing the chrome trim and applying some sealant?

Define lucky...

I've been traveling for work lately and upon my return from the last trip, I jumped in the 'manche to go somewhere and the clutch hydraulic system had failed. I had been adding about an ounce of fluid to the master cylinder reservoir semi-monthly but I could not determine where the leak was located, this time it showed itself clearly at the slave cylinder. Crawled underneath to see what I'd need to get to the slave cylinder and noticed that the PO had made an "access door" on the floor hump passenger side right next to the cylinder. I proceeded to lift the carpet on that side and I also found the source of the musty smell developed after moving to the south, trapped moisture. Thankfully, the rust and erosion is not great and a floor pan replacement is not necessary, see pics. The black stuff you see is some silicone sealer I applied for the meantime while I gather materials to coat the floor. I have removed all carpeting and insulation and reinstalled the console and seats, I sealed off the HVAC ducting going into the console and also performed a temporary repair of the lower shifter boot by installing a piece of foam padding between the AX5 top cover and tunnel. I looked for a replacement lower boot online but failed to find an exact replacement, it's stays as is for now since I plan to replace the power train later on and some mods maybe be required to this. As for the floor restoration, I plan to neutralize the rust by spray chemical application and following this with some Rhinoliner or the like, unless y'all have a better recommendation, no carpet will ever go back in, I'm all ears. As far as the slave cylinder leak goes, I removed it from the bellhousing and cleanded it up still connected to the fluid line, bled the system and reinstalled it. The hydraulics are now working again and to my surprise, not one drop of fluid has come out of the slave cylinder, yet. I will order a replacement to include the master cylinder and replace them before completion of the floor repairs, holler...

^^this^^ HOrn, you beat me to it...

Check for leaking injectors/fuel pump check valve by performing a fuel pressure drop test. Also, I battled this for a while on a GM vic, turned out to be a defected coolant temperature sensor...$0.02

HOrnbrod, ain't you required to have some u bolt thread stick-out on them lock-nuts?

All you need is electrical schematics, a test light/multimeter, and lots of patience. You need to verify the correct reading on grounds, battery, ignition, and crank scenarios for the respective leads. Once that is verified, move on to the reference/return voltage to all sensors. Continuity checks are done if you have a bad or non-existent reading, suspect an open circuit then. You got this, gitter dun!

awesome idea AZ, thanks!

Getting close to starting on this swap on my MJ and am wondering how y'all went about hooking up your e-brake cables to the actuators. I found these examples online (see below), pretty straight forward. Except for the Lokar ones, how are they attached to the MJ e-brake cables? Can the original 8.8 cables be hooked up to the MJ instead? Show me your 8.8 e-brake setup!

An easy way to achieve your goal is to mount an iPad or Android tablet onto/into your dash. There are dongles for your ALDL connector to monitor your powertrain through bluetooth and an application. There's lots of info on this on the web, google is your friend... Ras-pis are cool but I'd use them in the house for other functions such as smart-home integration and such. I'm not trying to discourage the ras-pi used in a vehicle but there are for sure some more practical ways, like a headset that has all the features you mention already built in.

No sway bar on-road driving=extremely interesting and exiting way to get to point B...if you make it to point B.

T-stat stays, the flow is restricted when it opens...

Thanks for the link, now I understand why the restriction works ...carry on.

HOrn, you speak of a high flow coolant pump and am wondering if all you need is a radiator (larger or with more cores) to complement/take advantage of this high flow to "stabilize" the cooling system? Maybe some better cooling fans that move more air while idling and at a stop with the A/C operating? If you do go with a conventional water pump and that cures the issue, then the engineers commenting previously are right, there is a happy median for coolant flow, given all other components and fluid levels are proper. This interests me lots since I've been "upgrading" the cooling fans on my fleet and have noticed that high air flow during engine idling and using A/C does nothing when the coolant flow is under par due to restrictions in the rad core tubes, holler...

Don't be scared to tear into the structure, go for it, just ensure you beef up on the critical supporting areas. It is very good to mimic what the factory did but there's always room for improvement/overkill. Clean the rust well before you weld and if possible, keep water intrusion in check, seal everything with welding or pucky.

The coolant in our MJs can be kept below a specific temperature with the appropriate cooling fan and coolant temp switch when you have a properly working, non restricted cooling system. I swapped in a late 90s Volvo sedan radiator fan assembly into my 86er when I replaced the leaky radiator. I installed a cooling fan switch near the thermostat on the intake manifold coolant passage that closes at 200 degrees and opens at 195 degrees. This setup kept the regular green coolant+water mix in the system from ever reaching 205 degrees in the southwest city traffic while using the air conditioning. Good coolant flow+good cooling fan air flow=cool MJ engine.

There are some good high-flow converters out there which you could install permanently...

OP, if you are near me, I have EFILive V2 to flash your 0411 PCM...

Time to verify that the ignition switch is actually energizing the stater relay/solenoid. Ensure the clutch pedal switch is good if it is equipped with this, you can bypass it by bridging both of its terminals.

With your "screwdriver" test you can get the starter motor to engage because you are bridging the battery lead terminal to the starter motor terminal. Try bridging the battery lead terminal to the small starter solenoid terminal and see if the solenoid engages. Some starters have two small terminals on the solenoid, one is to engage/energize the solenoid and the other is to supply full power to an ignition coil while cranking, you may have the wrong small terminal connected, check it out.

I had the same issue with my MJ, the turn signal indicator bulb in the instrument cluster had a broken filament which caused what you describe. Sometimes it would go out completely and come back on intermittently with a few dim blinks. Installed a new bulb and all is well now.

OP, you need welding and fabbing experience and some cash but you should be able to keep it affordable if you do your research and your own work. My 86 will get a SBC/LSx or a Mopar 5.2/5.9 depending on which NV4500/5600 tranny I find first (GM or Dodge).

Back in my wrenching for a living days we ran into a few driveability issues that could only be resolved with a PCM reflash/tune, but some could only be done by the stealership.

Are these PCMs tuneable? Is that what y'all are after?

nicely done...