carnuck

MJ? Maybe a little "custom" work. GW? It's been done to at least one '91 that I know of.

I'd be hesitant to take my 300lb body up there!

1: I survived a car falling on me during the Duvall quake of '95 by stopping it with the hardest part of my body. 2: I was a mechanic from early '60s (helped my dad rebuild the 327 from his '62 Impala while barely out of diapers) until Jan '95 when the car fell on me. 3: I like wheeling so much I bought a cabin near Reiter 3 years ago, but still haven't been wheeling except on my driveway (4 miles and qualifies as Class 2 or harder depending on the time of year and/or flood damage) 4: I need more than my fingers and toes to count all the Jeeps/other AMCs I've had. 5: Hardest part of my body is my head, but it has a crack from the right eye socket across the top to the back of my head, and when the car fell, my right eye was popped out and I lost 3 pints of blood out of my left ear. 5A: I'm still cognizant!

Could also be an SR5 or SR4

I haven't seen one do that yet. The pins are stepped to avoid this. (I HAVE seen people force a bulb in 180 degrees off!)

Once in awhile a push rod pops loose too (that's what's wrong with the '80 AMC Eagle wagon I just bought) Collapsed lifter or cam with a flat lobe is annoying too. Make the plug wires loose at the cap and pull/replace them one at a time till you find the one that makes no difference. That helps narrow down the culprit. I then undo the clips holding the injector connectors on (or at least the one to the "dead" cyl) and check for signal by unplugging them while running. Sometimes it can be as simple as the connector to the cylinder next to it was swapped so the fuel sprays at the wrong time.

Haven't done one yet, but my own options would depend on the drivetrain. Early with 3 speed auto could be swapped out for a VW Turbo Diesel from a Rabbit or early Jetta with the use of a 904 auto trans from a DJ5-G which came with the 2.0L Audi/VW/Porsche motor. (you'd have to swap the internals from an XJ/MJ 3 speed 904 to make it 4x4) The engine cradle from the DJ would also allow you to set up the motor mounts pretty easily. Not 100% sure, but the oil pan should swap so you get the clearance from the front axle. DON'T try to put rack and pinion steering in though! :nuts: If you have an AX-15 or AW4, a Toyota 2LT would be a better choice. It came with a Toyota version of those trans, and my measurements say the bells should swap, but I didn't check spline counts, etc. There are other options, but these are the ones I've checked into so far. Corrolla diesel MIGHT be able to bolt to the AX-5, but I haven't checked yet. The one I was going to test was bought out from under me.

Look above the gas pedal for a vacuum motor (it looks like a distributor vacuum advance almost). The hose to it gets knocked off by people putting their feet too high on the pedal (sometimes caused by 10 toes down and 10 toes up if you're flexible! Tilt steering is for more head room!)

Ever get yourself a JtrucK? I will have one for sale soon. 1983 J10 longbox with 4.2L/AW4 (I swapped out the dead T5 and just need to finish the swap with a custom trans crossbar) with NP208J tcase. Stock D44 front and M20 rear, probably 3.31 gears. Alloy wheels or old whitespokes with my old 33/9.50/15 BFGs. I was going to fix it up for hauling fifth wheel, but I got a shortbox '76 J10 with J20 axles instead to do that job. (it got the 304 motor from my '73 J4000 after I rolled it almost 2 years ago and a Jeep 727/Dodge NP208D from a Ramcharger to match the axles)

if your gonna go 350 then you may as well go 372/383/400 Then there is the final one: 454 I just happen to have one for sale with TH400 for $1200. Comes in a nice, portable package that looks like an '81 Chev C20 with 14 bolt rear and 4.10 ratio (5th wheel hauler with less than 80,000 miles on it)

What would it take for you to go back and *ahem* buy all my cars from my ex-wife for me? b*@$£ sold them all for a case of beer apiece! '60s Mopars with big blocks. '66 Valiant Signet convertible with slant 6 and 4 speed floor shift (O/D trans from a '76 Dodge Aspen) '68 Sport Fury convertible with 383 Sonoramic cross ram. '68 R/T with 440 4 speed. '61 Saratoga 2 dr with 383/727, '62,63, 64 Chrysler 300s with 413 motor. '61 Fargo 5 ton tow truck with 383 RB hemi engine (ex-military truck from CFB Chilliwack). '80 IH 1210 shortbox stepside with 258, 5 speed Clark with O/D, 1 ton diffs (I installed those and the PS) in gloss black, '78 Dodge Warlock 360 4 speed with full chrome package. '72 Newport convertible with 361 auto. '76 D200 crew cab long box with Pteradon 506 (400 block and 440 crank plus some goodies) 5th wheel hauler. Some others sort of worth a mention: '61 Vauxhall Victor Super 101 race car. '59 Victor wagon (picture a 'shrunken '57 Chev Nomad). '65 Chev Belair 2dr post. '55 Pontiac Strato Chief 2 dr post (Sparkling Blue was it's show title). '66 Vee Dub van with Mazda Cosmo engine and 5 speed (top speed 120 mph according to the radar ticket I got) I walked away from 10 years with 3 great kids (who decided on their own to have nothing to do with her) and my '69 F250 pickup (because it was so rusty and didn't have an original motor or shifter so no-one else could drive it easily)

ZJ front is NOT a D44! Only the Rubicon got the D44 with D30 axles.

I just had a bad 1157 in my '81 Chev C20 pickup (wish I'd taken a pic of the bulb before I tossed it) It somehow jumpered between both wires and when my brakes were applied, all my park and dash lights (ones that still worked anyways) came on and my RH turn signal didn't work with the headlights on (dash light for the signal was always on too)

If you can't get the controls to work right, make sure the vacuum bottle hoses weren't messed up during the fan replacement. Another prob where you only get defrost and no heat is the vacuum motor above the gas pedal gets the hose knocked off when someone's foot goes too high!

The hose for a PS unit has a bend to move it away from the belt.

Moisture build up between the post and clamp creates lead oxide paste (if you wipe your finger across it, it leaves a grey film on your finger) That is one of the worst things to pass power through. Once it warms up, the moisture drys and contact is resumed. Buff the post clean and the inside of the clamps before re-tightening and the probs should disappear. Best way to find it is to hold the key towards start, then quickly check for hot spots (carefully! I have burnt myself a time or two with this "resistance produces heat" test!)

No-one yet mentioned the stupid connector above the brake booster ('87 til very early '89) that I can't recall the name of. Try wiggling the connector and see if the idle drops.

There is a snap ring behind the throw out bearing retainer.

I think the one I bought has lights? (got it in Canada and it has wires coming out) I'll dig it out later for a pic.

That one looks like it survived the paintball warz! :rotf: Image Not Found '76 J10 shortbox (soon to get a Chev stepside to replace the rusty original) Image Not Found '73 J4000 that I rolled almost 2 years ago (parts live on in the '76 above) '84 J10 7' bed with SOA 4.0L (getting the 4.6L stroker 6 once I find time to assemble it) AW4, NV241 OR, Ford D44 front and J20 rear with 4.10s (those are old 33" tires on it) '83 J10 longbox 4.2L/AW4 (was T5)/NP208J Soon to be for sale Image Not Found My '87 Comanche on 33/10.50/16s (ZJ rims and Metric tires) Sadly I couldn't afford new ones when they wore out. The '86 Comanche is posted in another thread (one for sale)

2057 and 1157 can be used interchangeably. 1156 is used in the tail lights, but only for backup lights.

I had some goober try to show off with his Vette tonight. I just finished adjusting the AFB and timing (also put premium gas in for the price difference of $0.05 so it was $2.05!) He gunned his motor next to me at the red light (probably figured the beat looking old Chev truck couldn't do s#!t!) Burned rubber to the next light then did it again. "Vroom! Vroom!" When the light turned green, I launched the throttle and held on while the whole truck body twisted and took off, scaring the bejesus out of "mr Vette" with the roar from the headers and smoke from the posi 14 bolt spinning the 33/12.50 tires. Wish I'd had a camera to catch it, because I'd swear it lifted one tire! (this is a 5th wheel hauling truck don't forget!)

I use a bicycle pump on the reservoir lid (use the one from the old cylinder)

*DING!* *DING!* *DING!*

You might have a bad ground wire from the battery to the frame.