carnuck

Not showing sig here on Tapatalk but he fixed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a joke if you read what they put into it. Sounds almost like the took my old project truck and tricked it out but mine was an '89 Longbed with stroker six I was too sick to finish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you remember if it was 4 cyl automatic or 2.8 V6 auto? The 229 didn't come in the 4.0L years because it was only 23 spline input behind 3 speed 727 or 9XX automatics (which the 4.0L also didn't come with stock) and it didn't come with std trans because the viscous coupler had trouble with shock loads of std trans in full time 4x4 high. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might add if it's short or longbox. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$175 gets me a windshield so my unlighted visor is out there for sale. Longbed pendaliner still here as well. I found a sliding rear window for mine but I still want to make mine a full width crank up glass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The bypass is just a workaround so the AC compressor isn't running. The waterpump has a hose through the intake to the thermostat housing that can clog up or the vanes may break off if the motor is frozen then started. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now to find out what gears it has in front. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not something everyone dreams of, but having spare full size parts around helps. These are anti-swaybar plates that can be mounted between the bottom of the leaf spring pack and the new welded on differential spring pads. Or you can make new pad mounts out of correct width channel steel with a curve cut in them to sit on top of the axle and long enough forward to add a shock mount hole on the inside to use stock length rear shocks. Longer pads on the diff help control axle twist. I need one main leaf on my parts rig so I can rescue my landlady's car from the Briar patch (no, it's not a rabbit) Beefier Ubolt pads from a front D44 and I have brand new Ubolts to assemble it with too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I had help I'd check out the 93 Grand Cherokee AW4 setup I have and see if it's longer than the XJ one. (I think it is) NOT going out there tomorrow unless it's in the AM and headed back by noon because traffic looks like 5:00 Friday long weekend but going the other way due to defective drivers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just got on here today with Tapatalk and so far 2 Brazilian ads have popped up to block the screen of my phone. The ads are screen sized too and they overcame my pop up blocker to redirect me from Comanche Club when I clicked the X to close them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk In settings there should be a show newest post first option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like Pete said, it could be clutch not fully disengaging or possibly the crank pilot bearing is seizing up to the trans input shaft. (Mine did that at a traffic light and I almost launched into the car in front of me) Quick test: Check clutch fluid level, then put the Jeep into reverse (make sure the mount isn't sagging and making the shift boot put pressure on the shifter) and THEN start the truck with your foot already on the clutch. Be aware it may try to drive away in reverse (with your foot still on the clutch) or it will just grind like it did before (bent shift fork or something else internal to the trans. ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like one blade is reversed on that? The fan clutch won't like spinning the wrong way either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The battery to body ground could be missing. That could make the fuel pump ground wire burn off while cranking because too much power (amperage) is going through it. The fuel stops pumping when the motor isn't cranking over and runs for just 3 seconds unless the motor is running when you first turn on the key from the off position to prime the system. Look up cruiser54's Renix tips and follow them to get things done right. The auto trans is 3 speed (904 by Mopar) or 4 speed auto? (AW4 by Aisan) That hole in the exhaust wouldn't happen to be where the O2 sensor used to live? Mine blew apart and melted the crank sensor harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what we've seen every day this past week or so. Krypton sun and everything is reddish hue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It used to be my icon with an airstream camper behind it. Pic is from a Warn winch poster and the mountains on the right with the drop off are "added" through the miracle of photo editing back in the day. It was a wide angle photo they chopped a chunk out of, but the road was Big Bear near Imogene pass I was told. Before and after (last one is real) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've seen a few modded ones that read beer instead of Jeep. It must have taken some time to shave the P and make it into a b Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 2.5L (also 4.2L in Eagles and other Jeeps plus AMC V8s) with carb ran a 3 line fuel filter with a bleed back system that went to the fuel tank return to avoid vapor lock. The third line had to be kept in the 12:00 position with the filter horizontal to avoid running issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coolant sensor is in the head. Someone may have planned to add an electric fan from a TJ or something or just old broke the thermostat housing so they stuck a later model one there. The power steering low speed idle up wire comes in useful for other things. I used mine when I ran my power inverter to operate power tools and use the AC compressor to air up tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's probably the net getting ready for Apple's iOS 11 plus fires, tornadoes and hurricanes over and above the hack scammers out there. This is the error I get today.

I'm considering taking the spare light I have with broken lens but good back part. I have a pair of A1C lights with a Chev LED bulbs to swap out, then go for clear lenses.

I found a universal one in my collection from the Help! Rack.

Was your original motor zero balanced? Some were. You don't want external balance stuff on the new motor because it can vibrate it to pieces. Vacuum leaks can be an issue. Especially if your carb was for the heated base gasket version and not adjusted. Those carbs are notorious for issues too due mostly to age and modern fuels. I would try to find someone nearby who knows how to set it up and check for leaks if you don't know how.

That was it! Wonder why the link wasn't visible with my phone?

Tons of updates last week before the long weekend on App Store for other things might have something to do with it.

If the fuse for 4 way flashers was blown, do they work now that you replaced the bad fuse? The previous trailer you pulled may have had a short (or wired wrong if it had electric brakes) or yanked on the harness under the truck and caused an intermittent issue back there. Checking the plug on the pedal switch to see if it has power going in is good. The 4 way flasher switch on the column can be part way engaged and cause an issue with signals. As long as the lights in the back are working otherwise, then it's not the bulbs.