Marine1Texas

I turned the valve in to a manual valve, winter time I turn heater on all the time, summer time no fluid circulates in to the heater core at all.

disconnect pump tube and turn the ignition on the pump will start pumping it out. unless your pump is bad.

the old fitting is for the r12 system the was from factory 1989. there are two ways of upgrading the r12 to 134a service ports, putting ports over the old r12 or the new hoses with 134a ports built in to them. When ever I vacuum down a system that was r12 going to 134a or unknown info on it, I will empty the whole system, vacuum both sides down. If your system is working as it should the low side can bleed off and still keep a good amount of Freon. If anyone thinks a system has any moister in the system you must change your receiver/drier then vacuum down the system. The reason for the receiver/drier is to collect dirt and moister. once a system has to much moister, you are not far from a a/c system ready to lockup or leak off. moister with Freon will make acid, that will eat thru your hoses , rubber valves and cause internal compressor problems. When every I change a hose I always change the receiver/drier, it is a small cost to ensure the other parts of the system.

what are your fuel pressure readings?

I like the sye since I have had rear u joints blow out. then you can drive in 4wd front wheels to where you need to be to fix it. it almost a safety issue in my case.

Did one on Thursday for a friend a BA10/5. once you drop crossmember lower it down and get your self 2 feet or longer. I basically had 3 feet on a air ratchet. took those top two off, then I raised it back up to level and pulled the remaining. Pulled the transmission jack back with some wiggles since that bearing does dry out and sticks. while your doing the clutch make sure your clutch fluid is not dark, if it is clean your good. if it is dark coming from the master, best bet to change master too. once it gets any contamination it can cause early death to your slave. Dark fluid can also mean you have a small leak around the seal between firewall and pedal, you don't need that eating your wiring up below in the fuse box. I went ahead and replaced , master cluch cylinder with new line and everything in the trans. when you put the trans back in grease up the end up it and the bearing, it will make it easier. while you have it down clean up your cps sensor as well, they can get pretty dirty.

sounds like a intake valve is not closing all the way and compression is pushing past valve to the intake. you either have a sticking valve or a bent one.

So your getting constant power from the pink/red 12volt, and when you turn your key to run your getting power from the yellow ignition wire, sounds like you have a bad ground black wire or connection.

That shows you that wider and larger tires take more gas to turn. This is why plus sizing from stock 225/75 of 28.3 inch's tall to 31 inch's tires is a good reason to regear from 3.07 to at least a 3.55 on a manual or better. I think even 3.73 is a great option but 4.10 don't let the hills slow you down at all. I picked the 4.10 over 3.73 because the gas mileage was not going to be that much worse, it would make hitting hills way easier and when your in 4wd low it really just rolls over everything with out any effort. Before we chipped the back ring tooth it was 3.31 and it was good on gas and pulling hills with 235/75's. I tried 31's on it with the 3.31 gears I and my employees did not like it much. So I switched back. Now we have the 4.10 and 31's it is even more peppy then with the 235/75's and 3.31.

I would not doubt it, some time Walmart stuff is just crap. check the unit with a battery yellow and red to positive and black to negative. you will know quickly with it works or not. I bought two Sony CDX G3100UP Car CD Receiver's, one for each jeep from frys when they had on sale for 19 dollars a piece on promo code last year. they are short because no cd player, it has tuner/AUX/USB. I just fill up with 300 sounds on usb and let it rip. I had a Walmart radio in it, and it over heated when you put above 20. it was just under powered.

at 75 I get 19 mpg, at 70 I get 20.5 and at 65 I get 22 mpg that is 5 speed 4.10's with 31's and a tonneau. When I am pulling a trailer that is 7200 lbs fully loaded I only drive 65 mph max, because of my own safety reason's I get 17mpg. I also run no lift stock 4wd height that is on my 87 mj 4.0.

3 main ones need connected for power unit, yellow which comes from ignition, red that is always on 12 volt and the ground black. My unit does not come on till key is in start mode or running, for the ignition yellow wire to be on. some units do require if there is a mute button, to be hooked up for audio to flow, meaning you can hook it to the same yellow from ignition, but will not keep unit from powering up, just audio from speakers. Make sure your 12 volt red is working, you can touch both yellow and red on the units wire to see if powers unit on, with black ground connected of course. If it does then you need to make sure the ignition is in on, if not powering then trace back to fuse box. Could be a loose prong on the fuse, that happens some time.

at 75mph in 5th I run 2670 rpms, and in 4th at 75mph 3380 rpms. That is ax15 with 4.10 and bf Goodrich 31's. I think the 4.10 with 31's highway speed is at the sweet spot for power range too.... Before I had the 31's with 4.10, had the 235/75's and 5th at 75mph was 2825 rpms, and 4th was way to high for my likes at 3575 at 75. When you plus size tires your loosing rpms and power ranges go's down. to get the power range backup that's why you regear. as you plus size gets higher and higher you need to compensate for more mass turning as well. I think 3.73 with 31's is about the same as power band as the 3.07 with 225/75's. However a 4.10 bumps your rpms up a bit higher and your engine has to do less work because it is producing more power.

let me know if you want to sell the tank. I need another metal one for my other mj.

I think if you put a 4.10 with 31's your be very happy. Either find your self a 4.10 axle or you can put a bigger ring gear on that 3.55 you have. With 3.55 you will not have to upgrade your carrier, however if you try with the 3.07 you will have to upgrade everything in the axle but the shafts. If you do a regear take your time to do it right. Or find your self someone who can do it right. The problem I see is 31's even on a more powerful motor is still going to be in your way on a 3.07. If you upgrade to the 3.55 you will be at around the same rpms again with the 31's however with more to turn you loose a bit of power. If you do the 4.10 with everything you have now, you will raise your rpms at 70, which will give you more power. When I did my 3.31 to 4.10 on the 31's I could go from 70 to 80 easily even going up hill on renix non HO. I think the larger throttle body with the larger injectors are a good upgrade, but you are still going to run in to the power not being there at the low in. Right now 31's your be around 1850 rpms and with the 3.55 your be at 2130 rpms at 70. however if you do the 4.10 your rpms with be at 2460 rpms at 70. So your be in higher torque to HP curve. that my 2cents!

Since most of my home duties require hulling heavy trailers thru the mud or equipment in the back I like my 2 MJ long beds. The cab is too small to put anything in and need the extra room in the back. a good amount of time 40% I am in 4wd low and go thru mud a foot or 2 thick. It has never failed me yet. if I was to rock climb or something like that I can see the advantages of the short bed. The MJ is the smallest Truck I own anyway! The only other Truck I take in to the clay gullies is my 1966 Int Harvester and the MJ handles much better being a 3 1/2 shorter, and weighing 5000 lbs less. LWD here.

since it does not have any power to it at all no battery, you are safe. I have welded on my truck with battery, ecu plugged in with stereo on 2 separate times. I am assuming you are arc welder to ask this question! The power drop off is so fast since your probably have your Clamp with in a few feet of where your placing your Electrode. However if your worry then by all means unplug it.

Being in 4 wheel drive has no effect on it. GPS apps on 99% of all phones can measure off 2 to 5 mph. I have a GPS odometer that I used before I got my new gearing for 4.10 on 31's. The GPS always reads 1 to 2 mph faster then the speedo. 1 inch will not throw off your speed that much, only if your going above 65 you would see any difference. I use 37 tooth on mine. The previous one was a 39 I noticed only above 45 the speedo was off by 5 about's. My tires measure at 30.8 so the 37 tooth is very close. The front tires have more weight on them so it will be a tad bit spread out on the bottom near the ground loosing some height. How long will it be till you change tires? it would suck to change tires in say a year or less and the new ones are closer to 31 then the ones you have. that my 2 cents is all!

I would check ebay. Dorman makes a A/C Compressor Bypass Delete Pulley for just about anything however I see non listed for the AMC 2.5L. Dorman 34171 is made for the 1991 and newer 2.5L, however I don't know if it fits. some one could chime in further. If your a/c is free moving I would not worry about it, it will not engage the clutch, unless you clutch is rusted engaged, then they have rebuilt kits for the clutch.

you can use junk ones if you plan on keeping your rail in place.(make sure you put good rings on injectors so you get no air leaks) if you plan on taking your rail off then your need to get 14mm plugs. If your injectors are new I would defiantly save then, a cheap set you can get for 60 & up. Now a set of plugs can run a easy 40 and up. Now at junk yard a used set of injectors should be able to get for 20 bucks or less. Just make sure you have good o rings on the ends so you get no air leaks. The cheapest way is to leave everything on and just some old junk injectors. that's the way I would go.

unplugging the connectors from them will preserve the life of them for a short time, however carbon build up will happen on the tips and at one point clog the spray ability for future use. A injector that runs dry for more then 1000 cycles will develop a click noise at that point it is over for them. personally if your looking to save them, remove them, plug the injector ports.

If wheel Hub assembly is good, one question, how long has it been since you flushed your brake fluid?

I used a fold up chair in a 69 chevy c30 for a while till the bench was repaired. 5 dollar chair back then cut the legs down for height and used wire to the bolts to keep in place. The days with out seat belt laws..........

Like Ataki Mention most of the testers, never even check anything other then lights and emergency brake. The guy I take too for the past 20 years, on exempt vehicles never lifts the hood. If vehicle is high enough he looks to see if there is a cat installed. Other then that Horn, All out side lights, blinkers, and emergency brake. Anything out side of that stuff you can do and pass. The EGR delete, hollow out cat, and Capping off all vacuum but the map, and Brake booster line your good. The Truck will run fine. You can always run a straight vacuum line to the heat vent inside if you want air to flow like normal function. That way all the stuff you want to clean up can be cleaned up. Just don't remove the cat housing, I was pulled over a few years ago, and the trooper did a full check, and gave me a fix it for a removed cat on a 1977 Chevy. I just put a hollowed out one on, and took in to get ticket written off. However not worth the hassle, when you can just hollow and leave hosing on.

The vacuum also changes the vents in side the cab. So if you want to go from vent to defrost it will not work, that is vacuum. The ball does not weight enough to really worry about that type of stuff, unless it is cracked and leaking. Legally in Texas your defroster has to work under inspection. Now do they inspect it, No. I have inspection only vehicles too in Texas. However every now and then they do the gas cap check. With out the charcoal can plugged in it will suck a bit of air and fail that part of the test. Make sure to put a breather in place of the can. 4 years ago they did it to my 87 MJ, but have not did it since. Other then the EGR nothing else is a drag on the system and weight is not enough to effect anything. Just hollow your cat, Cat must be on in Texas for vision check only. DPS or troopers will give you fix it ticket if they give you a thru out check on a pull over if your missing cat. The EGR is easy to disconnect without even doing much, just unplugging the vacuum to the actuator on the left wall and it will not use the EGR. Of course you can take the EGR off put a cap on intake and plug whole on exhaust manifold.