Marine1Texas

typical HOrnbrod

So if you used one of these you could hook heater core direct no bottle and just get a over flow tank. You would not even have to change your radiator right?

Just my 2¢

Since it started after fill up, check your fuel pressure 31 with out vacuum and 38 with. This happen to me years ago, pulled the fuel pump and the hose above the fuel pump in the tank had a small hole in it. It pumped a bit, however mostly went back in to the tank. Now I would think the noise from rear end would be a different issue, unless it was coming from the tail pipe! As Eagle said could be water, just go through the motions first. Check that pressure if it is good then you go from there. how long ago did you change your fuel filter?

do they still say you have to spend 500 dollars on repair, and you can get a pass on smog testing for california?

diesels engines exempt in California before 1998.

I remember back in the day, I had a old 1981 in cali that failed when station in camp Pendleton. I found a guy that works on vehicles and does smog test. It cost be like a 100 bucks but he got it to pass. Now I bet it was illegal, however it passed. California smog laws are total bs and are really about getting new vehicles on the road and trashing the old ones. I know California will allow you to register if you spend 500 dollars in repairs. That is just crazy. I know they have this stuff called CRC. it will lower numbers to help pass. I have a friend who does it here in Texas on a 1995 and it works.

I ring in 3rd on EGR. Make sure the EGR is not clogged with soot, also make sure the vacuum lines are hooked up right for the EGR, and finally that the EGR switch is working right. I have seen them stay on and choke a engine out, also seen them just not come on at all. A bad egr that is clogged or does not come on will cause your NOx levels to climb.

So today I had some time to spend on the 1987 Jeep Comanche 4.0. I redone all the c101 connection. so direct wire solder and heat shrink wraps. Then I got over to the 3 relays. I pulled them up and check the bottom connections. They had that same c101 crap grease. So I cut out the relays and put in some new relay connectors and new relays. solder and heat shrink wrap each wire to the relay connector. Now from the video here you can see that the idle is perfect. We bought this truck new in late 1987. From day one we had a idle that jumped around. No matter what we did it was jumpy. I knew the c101 connection was a problem in these jeeps as well as the crappy ground system. I did all cruiser tips and it solved a lot but not everything. So don't just check the relays, and connections, look under and clean that great out, or do as I did. I installed water proof relays for all 5 that I have. The Fuel pump, relay latch, o2 sensor, headlight relay (add on), and the air con heater relay.

2nd picture I use those all the time at work. They are high amp fuses. normally 40 to 100 amps. I used them when hookup a winch. 1st picture looks like at 1970's style starter relay. however it is a relay none the less.

I would check your idle air control valve (this controls how much air the intake gets while at idle) and your TPS (this controls the amount of fuel at all times your injectors give). There are many things on the renix 4.0 that can cause rough idle. A bad o2 sensor (if not getting power to heat element), a vacuum leak, for sure check vacuum line from throttle body to your map sensor. Make sure to do the cruiser tips. I my self have never had a cps do what your explaining. For me it works or it doesn't.

if it won't start with map hooked up I am assuming something wrong with the map. even if it is new could be bad or wiring. The map measures the air density going in to the throttle body. If it is not hooked up it goes to default settings for idle, however the ecu has no data on to calculate how much fuel because air density is not in the calculation. So when you hit the gas you are getting super lean and it will stall to much air not enough fuel. Long cranks normal mean CPS. however a few other things. Your Ignition control modular could have bad contacts and need cleaning ( always a good think to look at. Water can get on contacts from coil to Ignition control modular and cause bad contact. Look at your coil as well. I had a coil one time work and just cut out, then work, then just cut out. Some have had just low volts get put out of the coil. Of course you can't forget standard tune up parts, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Also Cruiser has a indexing tip for the distributer. Also finally in your Distributor you have a Electronic Pickup called (Stator Sensor ). I have herd of them being faulty, but never ran in to that. Seems like you been changing every single part and not found the reason for it running right. What I explained above is everything left. I am think to look at your wiring. Make sure rodents have not chewed on your wiring giving you problems. Like Ωhm noted below me, yes what about that TPS.

You don't have the right pump. This is the Bosch number here Bosch number should be 69302. That pump looks like it is a inline style to me. this one fits too

yes sounds like a sticky cable. I agree with Gogmorgo needs cleaned. Use some brake cleaner to spray the cable down and get any hard great off or heavy dirt. Then get some good Penetrating Oil and soak it good. It is not a normal area that gets maintenance often. make sure the spray from in side down. push the thing to the floor and spray it good. Do inspect it, to see if your getting any frayed wire coming out. While your at it spray the whole throttle body link are too connected to the cable.

yep that is the number I am looking for. I will have to shop around for the best price for sure. it is boo koo bucks for sure for that one. found a new one just now for 21.99 on ebay Thanks Coolwin57 for the number made is much easier, and found it in 10 seconds

Seems like my IAC is not functioning right anymore. It has been at least 15 years since I replaced it. I was looking to see if they had a mopar IAC however I can not find the number. 87 mj 4.0 Renix---- I have found AIRTEX-WELLS 2H114 / STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC12 / ULTRA-POWER 2H1141 / OMIX-ADA 1771506 but no Mopar I can't read the stamp on the old one that lasted 15 years so I am not sure what brand I put in it. I use the MOPAR 33004650 TPS just can't remember if they sell a Mopar IAC. Any help or subjection would be greatly helped....

check your crank position sensor. could be dirty, bad connection, fried wire or just bad.

I would say yes needs to be cut. however I am not going to say that. you need to find out if the resistance is the same, or if the 1st box not like the old one Test the resistance on the plug side if they are the same then you just plug it up. I bet the 2nd box is got a extra resistor in it.

The EGR valve should only open up at cruising speed, after engine is warm and vacuum is 35 psi or better. Never at idle should it be on. I think either your EGR valve is stuck open, or the electronic valve on the driver side fire wall is not functioning proper. The ECU is hard coded to send single to electronic valve when all criteria's are met. 1st The temp from you temp sensor is at operation temp 195 and up, you RPMs over 1500, map vacuum saying vacuum is up at 35 psi or better, then it should get a signal to open. It should not open any other time. I would first check to make sure the EGR is not stuck open, 2nd make sure your make sure the vacuum lines hooked right. the electric switch has 3 vacuum openings . The one by it self that faces front of engine is vacuum from manifold, and it should be hooked to the ported valve on the manifold. Then you have two valve on the other side of electric switch. the most rear one is a relief valve. the one closer to the vlave in the back goes to your egr. If everything is hooked up right, and no stuck EGR I would suspect a bad electronic switch. Simple test when engine on at idle disconnect egr valve vacuum line. if rpm goes up, due to vacuum leak it is staying open and faulty or getting current it should not have there. 2nd same test but disconnect the wiring connector as well as EGR vacuum line if the rpms go up again you valve is 4 sure bad.

here in Texas all vehicles 25 years and older are exempt. Just have to do visual, horn and light check. In Texas all pre obd2 that are not exempt get the tail pipe check so 94-95 (but not in all counties. Some counties are exempt for all but inspection). All newer 96 and up, just get computer check. So as long as computer passed, horn and lights pass you are good. It is getting hard to find the smog machines here in Texas, since only 2 years left then it is exempt. Diesels in Texas and motorcycles are exempt from emissions testing, but are still required to have the annual safety inspection. So no obd2 check here.

I bet you blew a bunch of carbon in to your intake manifold. I capped my EGR off for good. All it did for me is blow carbon in to the intake. I used seafoam to clean up the carbon. another reason for stumble could be a bad vacuum line.

When you use the e-brake does it stop you from trying to move? I never herd about them failing for rear drums, unless the ebrake is not doing the job. In Texas they push the ebrake down and nug the vehicle forward, if it moves it fails. It could be simple adjustment. The rear drums self adjust screw a lot of the time does not work correct and you need to adjust it your self from behind the drum. I have been using the same hardware on my 1987 since 1987. only ever swap out shoes and lube up. Since the load sensor gives very little braking to the back. When I switched over to the 4.10 from 3.07 I taped up the sensor lever and it locked up almost every time I applied heavy braking.

I have the temp hooked as normal, however the air temp sensor is direct looped. I will then put a adjustable resistor in place of the loop. I will play with the knob with my analog meter to find best ohm. I think 2,000 ohm is good to start. That is around 85 degree temp. Since it is about that temp right now in Texas.

So we were taking the air cleaner out today and the air temp sensor wire snapped off at base of sensor. So Put the new inline tube air cleaner in and I had to go look at the ECU wiring diagram. It basically same setup as the ECU temp sensor, as the engine heats up lets more ground through the sensor to feed back to ECU, which leans it out. Now it looks like the engine temp ground side goes through the air sensor and then finally meet ground. So for temporary I have wired a loop in the wiring to pass right through where the air temp sensor is. It was cold and it started right up without issue. I have seen posts on here where to get a replacement sensor, will take a few days till I get it. What you think on this will it lean out the engine the most since it is giving full ground? Just got the mind going and was thinking about those sensors and how the ecu works on renix 4.0. If in theory I wired a toggle switch to ground and spliced it to the sensor line by ecu, when switched the toggle on, it would bypass sensor and get a full ground, causing it to lean the engine out all the way the ECU would let it. So if one was on the highway driving in cold or hot weather you would get great mpg.