Marine1Texas

I got these GENSSI 7x6 LED on Amazon for 29.95 buck a piece https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013TMZUSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought 2 earlier this week for my f250 same size and notice very bright and the amps went down. So I ordered 2 more for the MJ and wow it is like driving my 2018 truck with brightness.

Best bet is when you replace the slave replace it all. I been thru the Replace master then the slave went out then the line burst. So when I replace one every 6 to 8 years I do it all.

All you need to do is put the ho motor in with all your renix stuff attached. Use you intake, dizzy, and sensors.

02 would only cause it to run rich/ lean or Map Sensor would not would not interfere with firing on start. If you turn over (crank) and nothing in a Renix I would go 1.) CPS 2.) spark plugs/wires/cap .... If you have spark most likely you can move on 3.) fuel pressure 31/39 .... fuel pump working even with 20 psi it should fire 4.) coil I have has 2 cps die in 30 years on my 87. the key is good product and keeping it clean. about 7 years ago we had the coil go out. At that time it was a Saturday morning and nothing open till the new year, soo we put in a old 4.2L HEI Dizzy with built in coil that does not require computer or cps to fire. We timed it and it been sitting in since. The nice thing about the HEI it fires on first next cylinder, no waiting for full rotation. We never switched it back because not one failure making us do so.

I would check cps.^^^^ dirty, loose bolted or bad cps could be the issue.

The pressure of the coolant system would push coolant in to oil before it would allow oil in to coolant system. Check your oil. If you oil does not have coolant in it, than I am thinking something else than a head gasket leak. However a compression test with spark plug inspecting will see if you have blown or leaking head gasket. Check and smell spark plugs for coolant. I would not doubt it was radiator stop leak added. Many people get heater core leaks and add it to stop it. However it ends up all thru the cooling system. You can always do a pressure test on your cooling system. I bet your heater core leaks and Previous owner added it in.

yes 42 is the gear for those two 31's and 4.56

you need to work on the fuel side 1st then go to the firing side. like ^ both above said cruiser tips. Grounds, for fuel pump are behind the driver side rear stop lamp. Can be one issue there. After you make sue that is good, you need to start at the pump and see if you getting power. like above said, are you getting power for the 3 seconds when you move key in to run mode. If not you need to check that ballast on the driver side of the bonnet/engine bay. see if broke, disconnect and if working. You can temporarily bypass it if needed. If all working there then you need to trace wiring back to fuse box. The cps is know to get dirty and have a real weak signal. they have some mods in cruisers tips to drill it out and get the thing closer to your fly wheel. Cruisers tips will probably solve your problem. However there has been bad ecu's on some and dripping master clutch's that eat away the inside of your fuse box, causing a load of gremlins. Steps, cruiser tips, then fuel and fuel wiring, then cps and other wiring

I have non c101 I bypassed it years ago and have everything wired direct. Since day one in Nov 1987 the truck had those wiring issues in the c101. we took care of that long ago. Plus we added a extra piece of sheet metal that would catch and push away any drippings from the master clutch over the fuse box. I have done all of the cruiser tip type stuff, and then some more. We have redone every ground either with larger grounds wires and cleaner spots as well as created a 2 gauge ground wire running thru frame that I have each near by ground connected to.

When I pulled the thing out today to check on it, everything seems like it is almost 1 piece. It is the blue case. I can see if you unsolder you can get it out after you take the few screws out. For now I just installed after market electric one I had on a old tractor that needs rebuild. It fit the oil sender port on the engine and reads about where it should be. I have it tie strapped in place just over the steering wheel. To me the temp and oil are needed. We spend at least 10 hours a day in the back acreage in it. Running from one place or another to get work done. In the amount of mileage we have put over the last 30 years on it, it holds up great. I think we can make it to 500k easy before it needs a rebuild. Seems like the sensors are the biggest issue we have ever had on it. You can push it hard all the time and it never skips a beat.

I think I am going to start looking for a new cluster.

Ok 87 4.0 manual 4x4 renix with full cluster of gauges. The oil Pressure gauge when off or with key in is saying 20 PSI. I disconnected the lead to pressure sensor and it stays the same, so I am looking at a guage that is not resetting to 0. I also made sure it was not sensor by using a old one for testing same results. So at idle it says 55 to 60 psi and when driving is from 75psi and goes all the way over pass 80 to what would be 85. Basically about 20 higher then it really is It just started doing this yesterday, when I had to pull 10k hay bales trailer 65 miles to Quinlan. I pulled over to check everything once I seen it acting weird. No excess oil in pcv valve or hose, and no excess oil coming out of the filter for the valve cover. oil level is full and golden color. The engine running at a nice 205 no up or down, and not a single oil drip. Today I drove it down to Houston to pickup some parts a 460 mile round trip had not a single issue doing 75mph there and back. So I am thinking something in the cluster is messed up. Anyone know of away to repair the gauge? or am I looking at looking for another cluster. All the other things work on the cluster fine and reads very close to what is.

could your transfer case be in 2wd but your front axle actuator not be working and that is stuck in locked mode? easy way to check lift front of truck on jacks while your truck is in 2wd. turn your front tire and if front drive shaft turns it is not releasing the actuator. It will not hurt your transfer case if you have stuck actuator or sleeve. Many people mod it to stay locked all the time anyway and rid the vacuum lines.

So I am guessing it is the chevy 3.4 dizzy right? If it is the 3.4L GM dizzy you can use a Adjustable Vacuum Advance Canisters like a 66952C. Now the thing to check is if the internals for your advance is there, springs/weights. If not then you need to kit was it is called a Vacuum Advance Kit. Crane 99600-1 fits stock/HEI 3.4l

vacuum advance canister is what that is called.

in 1987 I have never had a issue my self switching. I have the vacuum line too. I slow down to a stop or 1/2 mph in put trans in neutral then pull from 2wd thru 4wd to neutral and then over to 2wd low to 4wd low. never grinds or even hard to go in. We put the 2wd low mod in about 7 years ago did not even need to replace anything else in case at the time, but fluid. With 400k on it never had any problems switching in to it. Most of the time I leave it 70% of the time when on the farm in 2wd low. Visually the only way to tell is to know the position of the arm from the transfer case. Yes you can push the bar manually however if your linkages are set right it would not make any difference if it is hard to shift, it is a internal issue. If you are stuck in low or high and need to drive on hard road, you can disconnect the front vacuum line that connects to front axle that will un-engage the front shaft. The transfer case will still turn your front shaft however you will not tear it up, or you can pop the front shaft out. NHMJXJ you can put in gear and jack up front with tires off the ground. in 2wd you can spin the front tires with your hands, if you can't then you engaged.

^ that's is how I like to do timing as well. I would adjust timing with out advanced hooked up to highest vacuum pressure and then back off the dizzy 1 to 2 degrees.

I call them air flaps. Sounds like something to do with your choke if the flap is not opening when warm. That is a auto Electric choke not a mechanical choke. I don't see it is plugged in from pictures

it will rub on the control arm with those. so require the WJ arms or the 1 inch spacer on the rims. I have used the 1 inch spacer for more than 20 years never had a problem. however it does push the tire out 1 inch.

^like he said yes the 31x10.5 will fit nice on the 15x7. It is because the tire is much taller. a 30x10.5 would have much more of a curve angle in on the side walls because the lost of a inch over length. so that's why if you get smaller diameter tire like a 30 you are better at a 9.5 since less stress on side walls. I and many others have been running 31's on stock 15x7 rims.

If you live in a state or area that does not do emissions, or your exempt because of age of vehicle like I am, just leave it disconnected or you can do a delete. Mine is there vacuum all hooked up, however I unplug the electric solenoid plug. passes visual if they ever do it, however does not allow that carbon from exhaust in to the intake system. They say it helps cool the engine combustion chamber. Mine has never had any effect from leaving it unplugged .

the 4.0 goes from egr valve to a electronic valve on the left fender then to the intake vacuum.

here in N.E Texas I use mobile 1 15W50 for more then 20 years on my 87 4.0. For me I find that the oil pressure stays higher then when I used 10w30 and 10w40. I like cruising with a 65 to 70 psi oil pressure. It allows my oil pressure to idle around 38 when it is 100 plus out side and 43 when it is in cooler weather. The higher the number like 2nd number 50 means it will stay thicker when hotter. the lower number the 1st one is mainly for start up. If you live in a very cold climate like Canada or places that stay below freezing you want to stay with the 0 to 5 range. If you live in a area that see's 32 and down to mid 20's you can stay with 10. 15 weight is good right down to above freezing. with the 4 trucks I have I used the 15w50 and works great with not excess pressure and no big impact on mpg. In my 2006 super duty I use the 5w20. It has a oil cooler and also that is factory oem oil weight. with 210k on it still running strong, so I stay with the 5w20. The one time I use 10w40 I seem to loose about 1.5 mpg. I say to most people just follow what the OEM says. Here in Texas no need to go below 10w on cold side however unless factory specs say so. Now on high side w40 it is not going to harm anything by going to a higher number. The higher number w40 or w50 is because oil is getting thin due to heat. On older cars the tolerances were much higher so thicker oil was needed. now on newer motors like 4.0 no need to go so thick unless your needing it for heat purposes. The 4.0 in my 87 jeep has 460k on it with out being rebuilt yet. I have done mods however renix original on the inside and still holding strong. no blow by and still getting above 140 on 5 cylinders, one getting 135 psi on number 4. I do oil a change at 7500 miles with the mobile 1 15w50 for at least 20 years now. Works for me.

the renix stores nothing. it resets every time your turn it off. not till the HO version did it store codes. things to check on renix 87 4.0 is vacuum lines, the ground wiring under hood, under dash, and driver tail light. Also check, clean or take out c101 junction box. c101 junction box can cause all kind of weird things with renix 4.0. I wired mine direct no more c101 box. make sure your fuel pressure is around 31 with vacuum hooked fuel regulator and 39 psi with it not hooked up. I upgraded my ecu to the 1989 ECU, it was a upgrade for sure.

yea been that way for 15 years or so. When I got back from over seas in Marines my brother was using it. I never needed to remove it since, so it is like that.