Marine1Texas

for street use this is how mine sits with 31's. no rub ever. however I have some bags that give me 3 inch instant lift on front and back for when I am in the back. II almost never have to use the bags unless I am in deep river bed clay crap.

Slide Hammer or also called a Bearing Puller.

most manual 4.0's came with 3.07. However if you are 4.10 without to much hit to gas mileage and take off you could go with 35's. you would need to go with about a 6 inch lift. If you want more power I would be closer to 31 on a 4.10 it will be very peppy. If you have a 3.73 I think 33's would be about the biggest I would go. that your need a 3inch lift at least. If you do have a 3.55 rear end, I would not be much bigger then 31's. On 31's not every truck can get away without a lift kit. 2 inch may be needed. You also have to think about your brakes. once you get over 31's your brake need a upgrade if you want to stop fast and easy. Between 235/75r15 to 31x10.5r15 I notice a lost in stopping power with stock setup. was not bad, however I can imagine worse going bigger. If you have the 3.07 I would not go higher then 30 inch. I think the 235/75r15 at 29 inch is best for that 3.07 stock 4.0's came with 225/75r15 at 28.3 inch's and 215/75r15 at 27.7 the standard upgrade with no problems is 235/75r15 at 28.9 inch's this is on stock rims you can go as wide at 10.5 inch with out much of any problem on stock rims If you want to go bigger tires, you can however best to be at least 4.10 or more. double check your setup. It is cheaper to get a new rear end with a 4.10 then to go thru hassle of upgrading your 3.07 to a 4.10. If you do have a 3.55 and want to go bigger they do sell thick gears to upgrade rear end much easier. I am surprised no one has commented yet, since lots of lifts. a lot more people know more about lifts and brands. however most are off roaders and not just street.

engine, trans, and current axle ratio to see what options for larger tire sizes. I use 31's with no lift and 4.10 front/back ratio. However anything bigger then 31 you would for sure need a lift. are you 2wd or 4wd? I am guessing your going for look right? I my self like the way a Comanche looks with no lift and 31's

yes 1 inch spacers will work. I have no lift and run 31x10.5s with the 1 inch spacer for about 25 years now no rubbing at all

I would drill a small whole in middle. some times a EZ out will work. Then try a few different ways. small notch's to get with a screw driver if it is free turning. Some time a little heat can help it turn. If that did not work I would try to weld a drill bit in that whole made and reverse is out. I think it is a 8mm so it is very tight to work in. If all else fails buy a new yoke.

yes it should be plugged then.

When I did mine I poured marvel mystery oil from the top slowly till it dripped out where connects to transfer case. The I attached to transfer case and added a little more. I have the same speedo cable from 1987 and works great. I do the lube every time I need to service tranny clutch. my 2 cents

I would check your grounds. Under the dash grounds. I would also check the wiring on your fuse box. If you have the c101 connector box I would make sure everything is good there too. I deleted my c101 box because of the faults that can and did happen with it. With voltage meter check after the fuse link that come from alt. I know for a fact if your ground under dash is bad, that voltage guage will read low. My guess is that you have some loose connections under dash, possible in c101 box or like you said a blown inline fuse that come from allt. Since you said it cut out then tac came back. Either get voltage reader or take to auto parts store to check your alt. read out. I have a battery charger that detects the voltage and amps from the alt. then you can get a extender and check the back of alt to battery while it is running.

you can shuffle, play in order of alphabetical or from modified date. 3 choices of playing. it will also do mp3, wma, wav, mepg-4, ogg, and flac. I may play more, but not used any other file format. It will stream any audio from you phone or tablet since it is just aac from android and apple. works on my older phone android 4.4.2 and my newer phone that is android 7.1. works with my sons iPhone as well.

you can turn it to very dim. There is a 4 settings bright or off for leds. then you can do the whole changing of colors. I turn it off my self. When it is dark out and it is on led off mode about as bright as the clock on the dash board.

I got a sony DSX-A400BT I got for $60. It is Bluetooth, no cd, HD tuner and mp3. stream from phone or from a usb. I got a small usb with 1000 songs that plays over and over. It is much shorter then other units so lots room behind it. Also have it plugged in a cheap 1000 watt amp 4 channel. that is mounted on cab wall behind seat. The Bluetooth calls work great, and it is one touch calling no need to pic up phone. Also has a sony streaming and tuning app for android. I had it about 3 years now and good cheap radio.

I know what you mean for sure H0rn. I hate how all this is made from China, however I am getting older, and I have to many hours to work in days and the rest I like to spend with family as they are getting older too. So I cave in on the parts sometime for sure. I will not go back to a china part that has burned me in the past tho.

I use 31 10.50 r15 bfg on my 1987 4wd. I have no lift kit and fit great. I did install 1 inch spacers on front so no rubbing at full lock. I have never got any rubbing fenders or body when in the back 200 on my farm. however I do notice every truck sits a little different.

I have always bought the wheel assembly at the local auto parts store for about 60 bucks per side and comes will year or two Warranty. Last time I replaced was 100k ago or 7 years ago. seems like every 100k or so for me. I did not get the MOOG it was about a 100 for my 87 4wd truck. I always do both sides when I do a wheel assembly and then replace the ujoints good or bad. I never had any problem and I load the $#!& out of my Comanche when pulling trailers and tractors out of the clay beds on my 200 acre farm. I use the 1 inch spacer so the 31 10.5's don't rub. have no lift kit either. I have never had a ujoint go bad on mine. last time wheel bearing went out notice a small noise on corners. I jacked up and grabbed wheel and did top down bottom up and left to right movement test on tire fixed. had small movement.

We got the ax15 from a wrecked 1989. it also had the transfercase. We did the mod to transfercase to give in low 2wd. I think Desertmike had the best plan for if you wanted wrangler combo.

if you upgrade your going to go to 23 spline. so either you need to change spline out of old transfer case or you need to get a transfer case that has the 23 spline already in it.. Comanche and Cherokee are best bet. mid year 1989 Comanche and up to the 1992. You will need to keep your CPS sensor from your existing, if it is a HO model tans. If you use the 94 Wrangler ax15 you going to have to beat the body above the transfer case up. since the clock is higher. Also make sure you get the cross member the BA10/5 has a different one

when my 87 does it, I grease up the cable ends attached to transfer case and the back of speedo. It is cable and not electronic. So it does dry out for me. The other 2 things could be the gear in the transfer case on 4wd or in tranny is not spinning freely and is out of adjustment or gunked up. Or it could be something wrong in the speedo guage. I would try the lube first and see if that helps.

yea tachs off on a old truck and old electronic could be a big deff. I never updated my gear I just use a GPS mph gauge. it is off 1.2 mph but close enough

HOrnbrod with .75 at 4.10 on 31's at 2700 rpms the math comes out to be around 81 mph. I can do the math on excel, however I like to use http://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator The .83 on 3.73 with 31's is about 2350 for 70 mph your right on that one

Non boosted here. Boost for what I do, would have to be supercharged. Turbo takes a bit to spin up, so your gain on low end is not much. I have The bigger bore throttle body with larger injectors and cold air or ram air. Also the delete of the EGR with hollow out cats.

If you have NV 3550 you have a .78 overdrive with your 4.10 rear end You should be at 70 mph when your at 2427 rpms. Do you have the right gear for speedo? at those specs you are doing almost 78 mph at 2700 rpms. With that power you could easy do 35's. at 70 mph you be at 2150 rpms in 5th. That would bring you down closer to factory gearing specs. Most of the manual 5 speed 4.0's came with 3.07 and those 225/75r15's. that is 2015 rpms at 70 mph. I run the 4.10 with 31's and all day long at 2500 rpms up and down hills. I seen no improve or negative on mpg

Yes 20% coolant and 80% water is what I meant

burning smell? burning means 2 things, slipping because it is getting thin and not fully engaging (also look at slave & Clutch master). or your riding to much of the clutch. Unless it is a different smell. If you getting a small amount of oil on the clutch disk you can get a oil burning smell, also it will slip.

Water gets hotter faster then ethylene / propylene glycol . However ethylene / propylene glycol will retain heat longer then water. Never have more then a 50/50 mix unless your in places like Alaska. Here in Texas I run a 20/80 Mix since we never get below 0. I also use water wetter or hyper lube super coolant in all my cars. I use 1 bottle in my 4.0 jeep. The water wetter or hyper lube super coolant makes the coolant/water more conductive, by ridding the bubbles between the metal and liquid. On our dirt track truck we play around with, we use 3 bottles of hyper lube super coolant with straight water, it is 4.0 and runs at 190 even when it is 110 outside. Never go by tough lol use a gauge of some kind. They have thermal readers that you can check the temp of the metal to see the difference in temps.