Marine1Texas

This is common rust build up after so many years when water has gotten in to the system. However the housing that the shafts run thru have no oil that is why the large amount of rust build up. The seals on each side the tube keep any rust from passing thru. If you want to clean up with a thick wire brush and cleaner you can do so. I did this with a dana 44 in front and back. it lasted about 3 or 4 years before the rust started coming back. I just left it this last time, since the rust will stay there but not get deeper. Never had problems it messing up the seals, just make sure your shafts are in good shape.

means you have air in the lines. you need to bleed the system. you can not getaway with just bleeding the master cylinder. Once you open any hydraulic line you will get air in a system, requiring you to bleed the air out.

is it soft? is it hard? you have to give us more info. did you bleed the lines?

rubber facing down!

I use a 242 on my 87 mj. I have it in either 4L or now 2L with conversion all the time. I will pull a 10,000 pound trailer 100 acres some times thru the mud on my land, I have no problems with it. I but a few time ever drove it in high on the road, but when it was snowing. I have had more trouble with my d44 chipping teeth ever then my tranny or transfer case.

seems like your pan is already leaking from the pan seal, or is that you that let some drip out? There is no right way of letting just a little out. I just thought you could crack the bolts loose and let is drip out enough to get to where you want to be no need to remove pan. running to much fluid can cause excess pressure and can cause any leaks to become worse. If that is your seal on pan leaking, I would say just do the filter and gasket replacement, fix the leak and then you can fill to normal.

nope that's a pan drop. people have talked about adding a plug in to the pan. if you added to much, crack the seal on pan and dribble it out, and hope it will tighten backup and seal.

yep master cylinder need replaced. Do it before that fluid starts giving you problem!

I use this one. then I alter the end to a scoop

looks like a nice Truck. For me, when I look for the MJ I look for 4wd and the 4.0. I think the big appeal is offroading for these trucks. In East Texas area near me since it is a 2wd and 4 cylinder, I would say right around 1200-1700 dollars if the truck is in good shape and will not need anything major to drive down the road after buying it (that is above because of the rare MJ). Here in Texas You can pick up a truck with 6 or 8 cylinders 2wd, 2 door all day long used for 800 to 1500. That said, most people wanting a MJ may pay more just because it can be hard to find in many area's. The last MJ I bought last year, to work on my farm I paid 600 dollars for. 88 longbed 4wd 4.0 with the AW4. It had a blown head gasket, but everything else was in good shape, better then fair. We put a stroker 4.6 and a manual in it and it is a beast.

The oring should go on the end with a little push or a stretch nothing big at all. if it is too small it will not be easy to get on, if it is to big you can sure tell because it will not hug the end.

Aladdin Magic Lube OR Super Lube is the best thing to use. It fights off the humidity that can eat away at the o'ring. You can use multi purpose clear grease , but I like Super Lube. I get it by a 3 oz bottle Your biggest enemy in any a/c system is humidity, once it comes in contact with any Freon it will eat holes in gaskets and metal. 98% of all leaks I run into at work is do to humidity. So dry those connections off before you put on your o'rings. If I am working in a wet area, I use rubbing alcohol and then a terry cloth to wipe it down. Then I use the grease on Oring the get it on there quickly. Note do not fill a a/c system with pressure air, you will inject lots of humidity in to the system, making it very hard to clean out, also this will cause early death of your drier receiver. If you must check for leak in a a/c system use Carbon dioxide Co2.

Get a O-ring gasket kit, from big box retail auto store they have all the sizes needed MT2601 kit has the 3 sizes need for the MJ and XJ 87 thru end of mj line. the new orings are good on 134a, r12, 1234yf, and r22 systems

weight of long bed adds to smoothness. There are advantages to short bed when off-roading, but all in all they are not far off from each other.

How close it to be able to generate that much heat? If it is sitting right next to the cab like less then 3 inch's heat can come off it, but not enough to do that, unless you have fuel burning in the cat. My cat (hollo) sits a cool 10 inch from the bottom of the cab, right at the level of the skid plate on transfer case. A super lean mixture would make the cat hot, however fuel going in to the cat and igniting would make even more heat, at that point, the cat is no good anyway, all burnt out...

I have BFGoodrich ALL Terrain T/A KO2 31 /10.50R15. They are not noisy to me at all on pavement, and got them from discount tire. The bigger size your need to have 3.55 or better I have 4.10. They are great traction on and off... If I remember right they are pricey. I paid about 780 out the door with discounts at opening of New store deal.

My D44 just had to regear front and back on my 87 mj, I chipped a tooth on my 3.31. I used Yukon and went with 4.10. the price was not bad at all. just making sure it works out right can take some time to setup. I went with OEM style open carrier Yukon. It needed carrier and new spider gears. www.RWKHausSupply.com is a good place to buy

I have had the clutch master cylinder intake air from around the shaft of the peddle (that area get a lot of wear). When ever I change the clutch I go ahead and change everything. I agree with above. However I do bleed my self with one person. I open valve the push slowly to floor then I put my stick in place, close valve, pump 2 times slow, then I open valve and slowly go to floor then put stick in place, close valve. That is how I learned to do it by my self, and never failed. it takes about 5 minutes. I always try to bleed air out before I hook up the new master clutch cylinder and line. The BA10/5 has problems of pushing apart in the middle, because of the soft metal. I have had a BA10/5 last 200K. Once they start to go out look for a AX15 and fill it up with slick 50 till you get your ax15 or it go's out.

did you check the ujoints? if it is on down speed only, it could be ujoints with slop in them, and could be even a worn out bearing.

The first time for me I pulled it. The 2nd mj I welded it in place

a tight area to work in, however removal was not hard at all. just getting in the area without being a pretzel ! it is pretty straight forwars. just make sure to disconnect the rods from break and clutch, no need to do a extra repair.

Mine broke too, I just re-welded it

yeap you know your stuff! so guy on craigslist totaled his Rubicon and was parting out, only had 13k on it!

I am all finished, I got a dana 44 with 4.10 for the front. I also was able to get a new carrier with ring and pinion for the rear dana 44 with 4.11. took all day to do the front swap and the rear carrier install and lining all up. While I was under the truck I replace all the U joints, front back seems like a crap load of them. I also took apart my transfer case and added the novak adapter so I can use the 2wd low so I don't have to have in 4wd low when towing thru fields. I can say it pulls a bit better thru the mud with the lower gears and just happy to have another work truck on the farm working again.

I will get some and post up! it sure is nice having the land, but when taxes due that is a good chunk. The hay sales pays it tho which is good. Being able to hunt on your own land, deer, hog, and bird makes it all worth it tho. I am in area that is just 30 above ground water so it get sticky some times going in most of the back area. the black clay we have here you can park, and come back 30 minutes later and be 4 inch in mud,