Marine1Texas

I am not saying it can not be done, but remember this, if your gearing is off even 1/64 of a turn while you are in 4wd low you are going to rip up your transfer case chain, then any other weak spots. I am all for trying new stuff, I see no advantage at all to doing this my self, but WTH right The money to do this verse putting a lift on the front so you can run the same size tires. I say go for it if you can work out the engineering, then your have a one of a kind. I use 4wd low ever single day I need to work on my ranch here in Texas at this time of the year with the raining season. I use 235/75r15s with 2 inch lift. torque is a major factor for me, because I am hauling equipment thru the streams and run off area's. I did try 31's at one point and in one area of my ranch got stuck a few times. When I went back to the 235's I had no problems. My MJ is a work truck and not everyone is going to be in the same environment. We are in a soft black clay area, we call it Texas Gumbo here. Others offroad in sand and rock. and lots people need height. It all comes down to what you going to use it for. I say go for it if you have the money to throw at it and the time to dedicate to it.

Manche757, The heater core is not located in the same part of the box as the evaporator. The right hand half of the box is a little larger for the a/c and smaller for the heat only unit. The Heater core mounts in same place. I got mine from Akula69 on Comanche Club. He had multiple parts for the MJ. I am not sure now, but he had more then one HVAC box left last year. The HVAC box was same for all years of MJ heat only or with a/c, also same as the XJ so you should be able to find it. My first MJ I used the AC/heater Underdash Unit. it worked great. so cold it spit ice cubes out at you if you turned it up to much. The problem is mounting it. Either you have to remove half of your HVAC box to hide it under the dash, but then you have not defroster. They do have units that have a connection so you can add defroster. Most MJ owners say it is ugly and will give you much slack for it. But hey it is you truck and business that is why I give the info out. If your good at making your own a/c lines, you could mount a under dash unit behind the seat and have it blow straight up. I thought about that since I have the two seat not the bench. but bench seat would get in the way. I no longer have this installed, I did the full HVAC a/c system, but it looked like this http://www.vitha.us/124051.jpg

in 4wd you will cause the transfer case a lot of extra load on your chain. This will also effect traction issue since your rear tires will want to go faster then your front tires all the time in 4wd. if it was 2wd no issue but 4wd I would not recommend it at all.

^ crusier tips are always a must. a Bad, dirty or ground issue can cause CPS to not put out enough volts causing no start. A working CPS is needed for the coil to fire. This is usually a main culprit. Since no extra info given, If it was running before you did the tune up. Make sure you did not knock loose the CPS wiring, and then also make sure the coil to cap wire is good. If that wire is faulty at all, got a no start.

If you have a truck that did not come with a/c you will need two extra parts. 1. you need the HVAC box that can fit the evaporator, the heat only HVAC will not fit Evaporator. (my 1987 MJ I had to install new HVAC box from the old heat only) 2. You will need the controller that has a/c. This one can be done with a work around, but much easier just to get the right controller. (I did the work around by a toggle switch) Those parts on top of the Condenser, Drier, Expansion Valve, Evaporator, Compressor, Cooling Fan, High and low hoses. you will need a relay and at least 14 gauge wire to hook up everything up. I did not buy a kit, however if you do, you will need extra parts on top of the kit.

Spray foam needs to have a moisture blocker if it is in a not ventilated area, just like in a home (they use aluminum foil). Since the area is vertical, their is ample air flow with the heat and air flow from engine bay will be good to keep moisture away. I would not recommend this if you have a hvac box like the above is not using a HVAC box. (my self I would at least want the defroster which means a HVAC box) Where my HVAC box is I used aluminum Spray foam. Once the foam dry's it becomes hard and will not draw any moisture. aluminum Spray worked for me because I use it often, but most people do not have the equipment or money to spend on a one time thing. Also forgot to add you need to prep the area correctly. I can just imagine people spray it right on the metal lol.. You can't do that, you would need to put a moisture blocker, a good rubber seal would work well enough. once foam hardens, then you cut it down so the foam is not on the steel.

^ correct there are no delete plates. The fan area is was standard fan with heat. only non standard was a/c. It was not plated it just had a thick rubber gasket. Always the option of getting some sheet metal and tacking it up their if the foam is not good enough. I would at least want the fan my self to use on the windows for defroster.

My 1987 that did not come with a/c only heat just had these 1 inch thick rubber sheets. You could always make some or, get some of the spray foam insulation, and put a piece of card board on one side and fill the gap up and put another on other side to push it together, let dry then pull that card board off and you have a tight fitting foam. I did that to fill the small gaps when I installed the a/c HVAC box. The rubber all ripped up when I tried to put the small wholes for the a/c lines in it.

even if you have extra blow by, it can be solved from pushing that oil in to the box, for less then 5 dollars.

basically the door is in one direction, either cold or heat . I can't remember what direction is which on the box. I guess if it was not pulled all the way it could be in the middle. It is the flap for direction of air from the fan, either thru the heater core area, or bypass the heater core.

^ yes it connects to the hot / cold lever

A few things to check Make sure your idle stepper motor is working properly. check those bolts on your intake, they can come loose and while cold the gasket is not expanded as they do when they heat up, causing a leak. Make sure bolts are snug on your throttle body and your gasket is in good shape. to test the vacuum hoses with some spray fluid, something like starter fluid, or brake cleaner.

Agree with ^ Other things to check are Front Hub Assembly on both sides, if the hub has just a slight give it can cause some wobble, also check those rotor's out.

So whereabouts in Kaufman TX do you live? :D close to FM 148 between West of 20, East of 175, and North of 34 very near Talty. I live about 9 miles from Kaufman, 10 miles from Crandall, or 13 Miles from Terrell.

Where I live not worried about it. in all my years never had anything ever stolen on my land or from my trucks. Also we leave our trucks unlocked and everything here. Only place I lock is if I drive up to a bigger town. However I don't do that often

Not ever seen one my self. Here in Texas your allowed to carry long rifles and shotty in the open and loaded. If it is a pistol allowed to be loaded but out of view. All my trucks on the farm here or when I go to town, have a 30-06 or a 308 rile along with a 12 gauge, and A 45 semi under the seat. I do have the Texas Concealed Handgun License, but normally never far from the truck anyway!

When I was stationed in Praha, Czech we used 0w30 and 0w40 Most places that falls below freezing 5W30 is good, however if you are losing that pressure from old age or the engine 5W40 would be good.(note in old VW bug engines they used 20w50 because of the sloppy low compression heads). The reason people go with 5 or 0 is cold starts for the first 15 to 30 secs of engine warm up, the oil is more free to move around those cold pistons, before the engine can heat up that oil. Places that common 0 degree's 0 works well. The price of the oil is no different unless you get a brand that makes it that way. That is why I just go with 5W50 mobile 1 all the time with all my trucks. I change my oil every 6 thousand miles and it is still golden color after 6000 in all 4 of my trucks. This is just my subjection.

I use synthetic Mobil 1 5W50. It idles when cold at 40 then after hot, it is right about 28 to 30. I been using this oil for 21 years now. Before I would use 15w50, since it gets hot here in Texas.

Well that is better then a head gasket at least. What method you going to try to fix the plug?

looks like a head gasket to me from your pictures. I can see that line where the head and the block meet, looks like it coming from their. That missing bolt can cause some vibration on the head and not a even flow of temp on gasket from small exhaust leak making the gasket expand and restrict in that small area. You can always pull spark plug number 4 and see if you got any coolant or residue from it in number 4 cylinder. If non, then it might just be a small bubble on the out side of the head. That area it looks like coming from is very near of the rear water jacket on the exhaust port of the head. I was just doing a quick look at your pictures to a upside down look of the 2.5L head online and about lines up.

If you have a HEI Dizzy on the Renix you could advance in to get some extra mpg. Even on this new MJ I have that has the 4.6 HEI and carb I only use 87.

Your lines are ran fine just make sure they are not leaking. Where you have the red nipple that is capped that is where your going to run your line to the solenoid valve. The EGR solenoid valve will be located on the driver side fender next to the fuel baluster. you should see a plug there for it near. The solenoid valve is controlled by the ECU. basically that capped vacuum from the intake go's straight to the front of the solenoid valve and on the back of the solenoid valve you will have a blow off breather and the main that go's right to the EGR. this is what your going to need http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/JEEP/1990/40L-I6-MPI-GAS--5-Speed-Manual/SOLENOID--EGR-Vacuum--SOLENOID--Vacuum-Switch/4520241/33002298.html you should be able to find one off a jeep in the junk yard. from what I can see on the parts write up the 1986 to 1990 CHEROKEE, WAGONEER, COMANCHE 2.5, 4.0 share the same valve. located here Up-close looks like this

Just use standard heater hose from the autopart store. I deleted the Heater Bypass Valve. Run the bottom of the bottle to the bottom of heater core direct, from top of heater core direct to water pump. Run a direct hose from thermostat to top of the bottle. You will need only hose's clamps and one 5/8 to 3/4 hose adapter. since top off bottle has that little 5/8 connector. just don't forget to plug the vacuum line that connects to the old bypass valve. I noticed no real difference in temps in the cab from this. I think every thing is under 10 buck to do it. I have no clue if 97+ molded hoses can be used on a Renix!

Something I never thought about. I never had leaky injectors so I would never of thought about this one.