Marine1Texas

sounds like one of those bearing either input or output. I am thinking since it is only when your in higher gears your noticing it, it is your input. Like above said how the level in your trans? I ran 31s with the BA10/5 for 217k and the 3.07. Nothing ever went wrong with it, just acquired a AX15 at 217K when I needed to do the clutch setup all over again. So it lasted good for me, even know is has a bad rap...

yes it is all tight here a picture

2 days ago i noticed in to 1st and reverse my clutch was not going in all the way.when my clutch pedal go's in I have a small twist. Seems like a small crack has happen on the lever that makes the peddle twist and not push all the way.with my hand I can make it go in straight and the clutch is completely disengage. So I have checked local junk yards and no assembly's that will fit my 87 mj. Is there a part number for the whole unit or we one know where to get one? If not I will try to weld it. Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

My 217,000 mile original 4.0 has never had over heating issue. The key is to at least every other year clean out your radiator and whole cooling system. The radiator can get corrosion and blockage over time so I think about every 5 to 7 years to remove it and flush it out with pressure, to know that crap off. I have the original 29 year old radiator and I have done this 4 times. I live in Texas where we get at least 40 days a year over 100 degrees and about 40 days of freezing. I use 70% water and 30% radiator fluid. In the winter months I park in a garage, and on super icy days I use a half radiator blocker. Never had any heat issues even in low gear tracking across muddy 200 acre run, running a/c at full. I still use the renix bottle and you just got to make sure the cap is good. don't fill it past min in bottle and do the regular maintained. Most people I see just wait till they have trouble to change fluids and parts. I hear that water pump sound weird I go ahead and change it, even know I am on only my 3rd water pump in 29 years.

did you move your air temp gauge from manifold to your cold air intake? That on my 87 seem to make mine run smooth when I did that. I run HEI and have it advanced good, with a nice advance curve. not had it ping once with my advance. Since I added the over size throttle and the injectors that are 21 lbs it has so much more pep and grunt.

I seen this one http://www.strokedjeep.com/regulator.html however never tried it. I think the 60mm throttle body with more lbs injectors is well worth it and cheaper. However that's my 2 cents

I think there must be a underline effect here. A oil pump takes very very very little power from the engine, your talking maybe a 1/8 or 1/16 of a hp. you should not notice that at all. As above stated are you seeing power lost when cold or hot, or all the way around? I like to know what your psi now and before, is it around the same? If your psi is too high in the crank case you can cause rings to have blow by causing power loss, however you would notice the burning of oil smell I would think. 10 oil weight is perfect down to below freezing and 30 is good for most places in America. When you start the motor the oil it is the thinnest it will be, and it is very thin, once heat is applied it will start to firm up. 5 will act the same as 10 at the same temp since oils with multiple velocities act the same at the same temps. 5 means it does better below freezing. I would never put 20 never less then 30 since the temps of your engine is high. 20 can only get so thick and would remain thin causing easier metal to metal. When you bump up to 40 or 50 it covers for high temps to keep the oil thicker at high temps. Thin oil will cause early death to most motors that run nice and hot like our 4.0's do.... As above said go thru what you did in the process of tare down and put back together!

You said hard start, and you need to ride the clutch to get it going, sounds like lack of power. Will it rev good in neutral? is cutting in neutral at 2500 and up rpms? have you checked the fuel pressure? This happens to me when I get a small pin hole in the line above the fuel pump in the tank. I would check your fuel pressure and see if it bleeds off quickly.

you will hear all kinds of answers. 10w30 new and more miles 10W40. I use 5W50, since we get 10 to 15 with some good freezes, and then in summer 100's. I use synthetic mobile one for 25 years.

It don't take long to change out. If you go with a external you will have to go in the tank anyway to remove the old pump, then you have to design it to work with your float. If your going in the tank anyway just leave it. I only change the thing about every 12 to 15 years.

hook up to high and low gauges. Screw Out to take pressure off the high side, and more on the low side. and vise versa best to do it around 1100rpms.

r12 and r134 can reach about the same temps. However many factors go in to getting real low temps. cooling the hot Freon off and compressing it with a evap valve tuned just right. Unless your looking at turning your truck in to a ice box, I would be good with temps you have. Getting fins and fan to get as much hot air removed is key with the evap valve tuned just right, Then close all outside air off and reusing cooler air. When your air is cooler you are pushing thru the coil the cooler it will get. You also have to remember your temp gauge for your truck maybe thinking the temp is lower then it is. Eliminating that with a bye pass wiring would make it work over time and get cold. However that can cause early death on your compressor.

The biggest regular tires sold are 26.7inch a 215/75r14 for the 14 inch rim it is a trailer tire. They do have 28x9r14 mudder tires, I have them on my ATV, but they are limited to 65 mph.

had a flat one time and wanted to get it off the ground till I had it fixed. I tried a 28x9r14 from my ATV that had same bolt pattern. it would not mount

If your 300 high and 35 low that is right around it needs to be at 90 degrees, but can be adjusted. if you want to lower your high side a bit and raise your low side you can adjust your expansion valve screw on the side slightly out. no much of a turn will change the pressures. This is something you have to watch closely when doing it tho.

no more oil is needed. more oil will in fact lower the cooling so it will not cool as well. the oil you add is for the 2 moving parts in the system and is not sticky like engine oil, since it operates at very different levels of temps and psi's. if it is not getting as cool as you want at the right charge level, you want to look at the air going thru the condenser. the most over looked thing on cars. If it is dirty or the fan is not pulling enough air thru the condenser you are not going to cool that coolant down to the levels you need.

yep just drill the hole. I drilled one at top and bottom. The hole is only needed for the burping. The system in time will burp its self if you have the bottle Renix.

I think your max would be a 31 inch on your 2.5L AX4. However you will notice some lag on the hills. at 55 mph with factory size tires your at 2369 rpms. With your current 235's your at 2270 Rpms. If you go to say 31x10.5r15s you will be at 2117Rpms. I think it all comes down too what you going to use it for. If your going to off road bigger and wider the better. If your going to just do a small bit of off-roading but with highway driving 235/75r15 (9.3wide x 28.9 High) at perfect in my mind. If your not going to offroad and mainly use for highway I would go for best economy with width 235/70r15 (9.3wide x 28 High) or 225/75r15 (8.9wide x 28.3 High).

ok noted. I only have the information put on the spec page to go off and did not see that. However I do have listed the AX5 and AX4 with the 3.55. I use the 31/10.5r15's with AX15 with 3.07 in diff on my 88MJ with 4.6. feels like the 87 with smaller 235/75r15s because the extra power of the 4.6 on my 87 I use 235/75r15's with AX15 with 3.07 in diff with 4.0. When I put the 31's on the 87 4.0 I had to down shift on some hills on highway. When I ran the 235/70r15's on the 87 4.0 it was very very peppy but noticed the ride was rougher.

Please change to right forum please admin Here is a quick chart for MJ's for changing tire sizes to your trans and to your rear gear. Also makes a good ref if your planning on changing the diff gear ration what the RPM will change on your trans

I am not sure if you have a manual or auto. I think the 2.5 was 4.10 rear end . if you have the 4.56 I have numbers for that too. 235/75r15 is 28.9 but basically a 29inch tire Check this link out to my blog http://vitha.us/blog1/2016/08/22/jeep-tire-to-trans-and-rear-end-gear-ratio/ It gives how bigger tires work to lower final ratio to the rear gear and the trans. I have most of all Trans and final gears listed I have listed each trans as it works with each of the available rear gear ratio's It shows you how rpms move to each gear at a speed with changing of tires up and down

I adjusted the valve pushed down also slightly and I don't get the issue since, on my newer 88 MJ. It has the smaller drums and was doing this very often.

It may not need parts but need to check the wiring. I don't know if the 4cyl is got the ground issues like the 4.0 does. I am sure some owners of the 4cyl will chime in.

It looks like r12 and not been upgraded from the connectors that are on it now. If it is leaking from the front of the compressor you have the option of using that R12 substitute or 134a. If it is r12 and you do the 134a conversion ur best bet is to do it all at once so your not have any future repairs. a new receiver/drier, you can not mix R12 with 134a receiver/drier will clog, also the oil is not the same. Then you just buy the new 134a fittings that will screw on the old r12 fittings. and of course a new compressor. don't forget the Pag oil. If it is r12 and you want to stay with r12, your best bet to keep a good fix, replace that compressor and a new receiver/drier. A new receiver/drier will keep the system clean from any humidity that will or is been exposed, because of a leak. don't forget when replacing the compressor your need the oil that is compatible with the r12. If it is a r12, and r12 tend to leak less since lower pressure, make sure the vacuum stay down . best bet 20 to 30 minutes of vacuum, if not lost anything your good to add your oil and Freon. The AC lines are not original I can see that clearly. They look like newer 2003 plus year design. That means they should have the 134a/r12 compatible Orings

Since I have had my 87 MJ 4.0 never had a cooling issue at all. Even when it is 110 here in Texas it has never gone over 205. When I turn the a/c on it over cools and stays right around 195 even sitting and idling for long periods of time. Even with a non vacuum line hooked to EGR it does not heat up. I think the biggest issue with temps not maintained cooling liquid. I like a 70/30 water/antifreeze in my MJ. I always thought the thermostat was a good restrictor by its self. I could see a thermostat that had a even less of a opening would slow the flow as well. that my 2 cents lol