Marine1Texas

As above stated if your reservoir is leaking it will give you many future problem. the fuse box is right below it, and you will get corrosion in your fuse box that can cause many gremlins.

AX4 fill location is passenger side of the trans picture below alternatively there is a torx plug on the driver side of the trans, about half way up the side that can be used to fill as well. Also you can fill from the shifter hole Image Not Found

it is normal and yes the renix is more so. When I installed the 4.6 with HEI it starts super quick, it has no cps.

the pressure switch will not activate below 45 psi. + or - 2 psi you can check static low side. The low side while compressor is on should be between 27 and 40 PSI ( do not exceed 40) . If the out side temp is hotter the higher the psi should be. The high port should be 225 psi to 250 psi. if you check the static psi, that means when it is off. both sides should be very close to the same psi any where from 75 to 100. if your static psi is lower then 45 the pressure switch will not allow it to kick on the compressor. (a quick Tip) You can begin testing with only 45 psi. You won't get any cold air, but you should start to see some compressor engagement. As soon as the compressor engages, it will cycle off rather quickly when the suction side of the compressor draws the pressure on the low side below 20 psi.. You will see the low side gauge at 45 psi, drop quickly to 20 psi, at which point the compressor will cycle off. Then the low side gauge will climb back up to 45 psi as the high and low side equalize. At this point, he compressor will kick back on and the cycle will repeat itself. This is called short cycling. This rapid cycling of the compressor is a good indication that the system is low of refrigerant.

first go check your tire balance, it is the easiest and cheapest thing to start on.

yes if the leak is small it will work for a while. I do a/c repair my self it is part of my business in my company, and I never never never ever do dye. you can not get the dye out of the system unless you replace every part. the dye will interfere with the total cooling and heat exchange, and there is no way to vacuum the dye out of the compressor completely and you will need a receiver as it will cut life of it in half. To find a leak, you are better off filling with nitrogen and using soapy water. unless I am doing a unit that is a b*@$£ to get to all the connectors. I just go ahead and change all the orings. I am not saying there are not other ways of doing leak checks, but doing things the right way does not always cost more money in the long run.

134a kit is pretty much universal. new connectors with Freon, and pag oil. From what info you supply which is not a whole lot. I would make sure your not already converted to 134a. I am assuming the age of your vehicle it was converted over at least 10 to 15 years ago. Left is the R12 ports and right is 134a ports. That way you know what you have. If your already 134a then you need to check your Freon level. Get your self a small gauge that screws on the top of a 134a can, you can normally pick them up both for around 20 dollars. At Walmart they sell 12oz cans for 5 dollars, you can try to add a can or 2 to see if you can get it going. Never the less if you have to add Freon you have a leak. To test if the compressor is working at all jump the wires on the pressure switch. you will know right away if it is working or not. don't jump it for long, you don't want to run a compressor with low Freon. Normally I recommend when you have a leak anywhere in a a/c system, you replace receiver all the orings, and inspect the hoses for cracks that can be a leak. I think if your going to do it do it right so it lasts. Harbor freight sells a cheap manifold kit and a cheap vacuum that you hook up to your compressor. With a oring kit, and a new receiver you pretty much good to go.

if the Freon is low the pressure switch that is on top of receiver will not allow power to turn the compressor on. If it was the old R12 system, and your converting to 134a, I would replace all the orings, the receiver, the new 134a High and low ports. You will need to add the PAG oil also. Inspect your hoses to make sure they are going to last, nothing worse then converting and 1 year later a leaky line. Some will say only needed is orings, Freon and oil. receiver is always best to change when opening a system up also you will have oil from the r12 system trapped in the old receiver. after you change everything out, make sure to vacuum the system down and let is sit for 20 minutes or so. that way you know you have not even a small leak. Once you are sure add the PAG oil and the 134a after that.

I would find a local hose maker to make you one. Around here in rural Texas I can get a hose made for about 30 to 40 bucks, all new fittings with the 134a high or low built in to it. It takes no more than 20 minutes at most to make it to the same size you have currently. I work on Home, and commercial A/C units I have a kit and tools to make one. Most hose makers carry the R12, R22, 134a, 404a, 407c, 410, R717, R744, and newer 1234yf connectors.

Chrysler DRB II you can run and scan live information only. You need the cable for RENIX to use it. The Renix does not store any codes of any kind. So the scan tool is only for when the engine is running and you can see how the sensors are running. DRB-11 does a simple systems test on the sensors out put to the ECU. That is the most you will ever get with a Renix system. Most people do not own a DBR-11 and just go at it with a multimeter. If you having problems the best thing to do is do Crusier54'sTips http://cruiser54.com/

Mine ripped about 10 years ago, so I got 1/2 inch thick rubber sheet. It fit tight and has been better then when we first got the truck off the show room floor. I think it was 50A grade rubber. you can get it at Grainger

is your blower coming on at all? if not that is a 25 Amp Blower Motor slot 3. Take your relay out , clean connection. From there you can also jump the compressor to see if it is working. Also with your volt meter check to see if your getting power to the relay. if everything is working check to see if the pressure switch is not allowing the compressor to come on because of low Freon level. get your self a gauge to test you low side pressure. if it is below 10 psi that could be the reason, also some times bad pressure switch's can happen. This is the electrical wiring for it

1987 4.0 with HEI AX15 235/75r15 4x4 3.07 16 City / 21 hwy 1988 4.6 twin carb HEI AX15 225/75r15 4x4 3.07 17.5 / 22 hwy

Sorry auto corrected on my phone 87 not 79. 1st did you try jumping pin 87 with 12 volt to see if it would turn the pump on? If that turns pump on then you can check pin 30 and 86. 2nd Since you said 30 has not power check the fusable link. it is like a inline fuse that is wrapped. That may be blown or have a bad wire connection. You may have to replace it if it is bad. I think it is 20 or 25A don't hold me to that number not at my computer right now. 3rd the 86 which is wired to the starter relay. easy enough to test if it is getting power by Turing ignition to on, and checking if you have voltage there. If you can not get power to 30 you can always run a hot 12volt from battery connector with a fuse between battery and Pin 30. It is only pulling juice when your ignition is turned on.

did you check fusible link at the starter relay? When you check the relay harness plug in, did you get all the time power to the #79?

I have used this on my old chevy http://www.ebay.com/itm/usa-seller-CAR-AM-FM-RADIO-ANTENNA-NOISE-FILTER-WHINE-HUM-SUPPRESSOR-ELIMINTOR-/281202246104 It gets terrible noise on am. it cleared it up.

hows your ground to the fuel pump? did you do the refresh grounding behind the rear driver tail lamp?

how are your front wheel hub assembles? are the bearings good with good lube. I can think of all kind of places that could make noise. Even a slight warped rotor that is just grazing the brake pad can make weird noise.

if it is playing good when you plug something in or playing a cd then you looking at the unit it self, or maybe you have a bad connection with your antenna. If your antenna connection is loose some where it could cut in and out. The other thing is on am/fm you could be picking up some waves that are causing static. My best bet would be check you antenna, and make sure it is not grounded to the body, or got loose / corroded connections

R12a is flammable so you know that. it can be a problem if you do get a leak. 2nd yes the r12 orings are different before 2003 they were nitrile rubber, pre-2003 r12 rings are not neoprene. r12 orings would get eaten up by the 134a Freon and the PAG/POE oils. However if your using the r12 you can use either neoprene or the old nitrile rubber if you can still find them. When you go get a little bag or box from the auto part store they will be made of neoprene. All the A/C systems, I work on now days, in homes, businesses and groceries stores, I use the neoprene orings. When I service a r12 system and convert over to LPG or 404a I replace them. but hey I don't like to go back to a job to service something I already got paid to do correctly

Same for both. only thing different is the hoses on r134 are made a little better now for the increase of pressure. All the lines you find now will hold more pressure and the orings are the same. so nothing special needed.

For auto a/c to test for leaks you vacuum it down and make sure it holds a negative pressure. I like to make sure it hold negative for a hour. Many people like to use the dye coloring, I like to use nitrogen if there is a leak. With nitrogen if you have a leak, just some soapy water you can find any leak. I have this one to vacuum the line down http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html but they do sell cheaper http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/refrigeration/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html Basics make sure you have a new receiver/drier and replace all new orings. No need to start engine or put anything in, 1st thing after install all new parts hook up your vacuum and pull it down. it will not take long. Then you wait and watch you vacuum pressure. if it go's back up to 0 you have a leak some where. If you have a leak then you need to charge the system with some nitrogen and then use a spray bottle with soapy water. Checking all the normal spot, connections. After leak fixed, the nitrogen will be purged and you add you oil to the system, and then your r12. You want to add a bit of r12 to the system before your start the engine and the a/c system up. If you have used 134a the pressure is much more then r12 that has a lower pressure needed. 6-18 PSI is normal range for R12 system a 134a system normal is 24psi and above. Since r12 is hard to find, you can make a big profit on just a few cans, enough maybe to pay for the system replaced. But hey it is all up to you, and nothing cooler then having original r12 system.

If you have a cheap HEI dizzy to drop in, you could test against the ECU. I run HEI on my 87 4.0 with HO head, on my 87 The ECU only controls the fuel injection. on my 88 that is a 4.6L I use no ECU at all HEI with carb setup.

Wow just wow, no more driving till you take care of that frame. that leaf spring just ready to brake right off. Best bet to take bed off and look at redoing your frame.

on the flap I used weather stripping. Just put a good epoxy to keep it in place on the back of the weather stripping. It has held up for 15 year now for me. Like Strokermjcomanche posted that stuff is pretty good.