Marine1Texas

do you have a exhaust leak that could cause the cps to get over heated? I see that happen before. I have had a pin hole in the gas tank hose above the pump and after it been pumping a while it would stretch out and the engine would loose power. I let it cool then good for a bit again. Tell it just would not rev anymore.

from what I remember you can use 32/36 DGEV or a 38 DGES both are 2 barrel carbs. Below link shows the kits for webber carbs for 2.5, 2.8, 4.0, and 4.2 Jeep engines. You don't have to get the kit, but the carbs are what I think your looking for http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/jeep/

If your talking about a charge in a new filter. it is not a charged it is pre vacuum down so that it keeps moister and dirt out! Like mikekaz1 says for transit and storage reasons.

I agree if your hazards are working then ground is fine. you have either a bad flasher for turn signal or something is shorting it across keeping the circuit constant. Just a tip, if you have a manual and your clutch reservoir is leaking on the back of your fuse box under the hood, weird things like this can happen.

If all is good from the ball and in to the cab, There is a actuator that moves the vent door under the dash as well. Start from the ball and move in to the cab.

There is also a vacuum line under the dash near the driver side.

If you have a HEI dizzy it does not need even a full rotation before it will start. The HEI is self contained and does not use signal CPS. I have one truck that runs HEI and a carb. starts up on less then a rotation, normally on 1st or 5th order. On my truck that has HEI and fuel injected it is the same way at starting. After a few years of living in Texas with all the mud that can get caked on the cps, I switch and have had no problems. Also I can adjust the timing and then go much farther advance when needed. I am not putting down the computer run dizzy works great! I have bump started it a few times, just with a little slop and pop clutch, right off less then 1 mph....

I did the upgrade years ago, however the only times the headlights come on is inspection time. last time I had to replace a bulb was before 2000.

here in Texas over 24 years old no emission testing. So hollowed out cat with EGR that is working but not hooked up to vacuum. Also with larger injectors and bore over throttle body. I like the renix my self it is very easy to find the problems... The other MJ is carbed 4.6 HEI with no computer and no need for emission!

High CO normally means running rich. With the renix if your pressure is to high this can be one factor causing more gas per squirt. yes a leaky injector could cause rich as well. the O2 sensor could also cause it to run rich

Just a Tip ,I personally would never use UV leak detector. once in the system, you will never be able to remove it with out replacing your drier receiver. The UV leak detector in your system will lower the performance of most Freon's.

Looks the same as my 1987 4.0 5 speed but mine has the blue case

wondering about a small leak in the head gasket.

Did you burp the system good. you may have a air bubble in the system. I have herd lots of people complain and it turns out to be a air bubble that they could not get out of the system. I am not saying for sure this is the problem, just something to check out.

hornbrod, Awesome to hear that everything worked out great. Now your have some one to nag you while you drive lol joking......

yea both of those are pretty good ones. your still need some hose and the fittings. they may have a all in one kit. I get fittings by the bulk, if I see a kit I will post up one.

I change oil 2 times a year and I use synthetic. I use 5w50 mobile 1 synthetic in all 5 of my trucks and can go 15k between changes, but I change all in Nov and in April no matter the miles. I have not used any other oil for 20 years. In Jersey you should use low weight of 5 in the winter at least. If your over 100k use 40 weight at least since it helps with aging motor parts. I don't think you need 50 weight on high side since it does not get to hot in jersey. So would recommend 5w40 winter 10w40 summer. but 10w30 is a little better in mpg in summer.

evaporator only needs replacing if it is leaking. no reason to change parts on it. Since you are doing so many vehicles you might as well buy a hose making kit, then you can make your own and not go shopping and hoping to get the right . I am not sure on the newer 95 if the ac stuff is the same. I would think most the same other then maybe the compressor change maybe. hose making cite, would be the clamps, fittings and the hose. all you do is use a good torque drill/wrench to tighten it and seal the clamp down. make sure to get the kit with #6 connectors that is what jeep use and most cars. I would also save some money on the receiver drier and go with a standard universal one. that way in the future it is very easy to find and replace. also they run less then 30 dollars a piece. I buy in bulk, so I get for around 12 dollars a piece. scales for car a/c work, but in the end some compressors are not equal in all always even in the same year. meaning you can be as much as 7oz more on one system then another to get the same cooling power Make sure not to pay no more then 120 total for your 30 pound can. the going rate is 1.89 to 2.23 a pound when you purchase it in bulk.

carfax reports everytime a dealer service the vehicle, crashes, and if a state records mileage at inspection / smog testing. on some insurance company that require mileage it would report too. on the Renix nothing is recoreded at all in your system, you only have the mileage on the speedo cluster

hornbrod yea that is a Alkane / Hydrocarbon substitute for r12. I have used that for some old r12 unite that the people don't want converted. It seems to work very well and the molecules are larger, which means they don't seep thru the cracks as much, but good for lower PSI like r12. Red Angel AC Stop Leak & Conditioner works with the r12 and I seen it take a system from 6 month charges to 2 years between charges. So yea give it a Go...

I am not sure what the complete kits include. almost everything is the same from 87 to 92, but the a/c compressor. I think 87 and 88 had a diffrent mount, however I could be wrong and it is just 87. Most of the time expansion valve's just don't brake, they normally just get gummed up and can be cleaned. Either way you go your going to need some hoses and a receiver/drier. I always make my own hoses so I don't know what is avalible. I would start off getting the expansion valve for it, and then I would get a cheap universal receiver/drier, so that later you don't have to search for the comanche version receiver/drier in future. then you just need your hoses, which can be made for 30 to 40 dollars each. your a/c compressor may or may not be good that your going to have to test. once you get hooked up vacuum it down and make sure it holds for 20 to 30 minutes. then filler her up. make sure to put your PAG oil in the system before you add your 134a.a full system will need 3 1/2 cans of 12oz. walmart has 12oz cans on sale for 5 dollars a piece right now!

If you want to stay with what you got and if that expansion valve is still good. hoping you have no other leaks. all you need is a new hose and a receiver/drier. that is all total after market setup you got! If you want to go at least something close to original, you will need a new expansion valve a new receiver/drier and high/low presure hoses. If you have no leaks in your core, you should be able to do everthing without opening you HVAC box.

If the expansion valve is cheap enough would not hurt much to just replace it, it will save you time in delay if it is really bad (the last time I replace with a 4-Seasons A/C Expansion Valve it cost me less then 20 dollars) However I am not a guy who just throw's new parts at something. in the 25 years of doing commercial ac and home ac I say 10 to 15% the expansion valve really go's bad. Most the time I see them go bad, because oil was not added or acidic level from humidity cause the valve to corrode, do to previous bad maintenance not vacuum system down and new receiver/drier. This is for those who can make or have access to making new hose and fittings. Since I make all my own hoses, I just use the cheap 20 dollar receiver/drier that I use on home units. They use the #6 connectors as well as most cars do. the quick disconnect crap I got rid of, since if those fittings go bad, they are not as easy to get.

I have seen evaporator core's plugged from a bad receiver/drier before. Most people do not pull vacuum and most try to get away without replacing the receiver/drier. Once a dyer is exposed to the humidity you get clumps that can form then break off. This normally builds up in the area that the expansion valve opens and closes near the low side. Personally I would replace your receiver/drier, while it is open to the air. Most of the time if it is not leaking your compressor is good you have blockage or a bad valve. Best bet go get 4 cans of 12 oz from Walmart for 20 bucks, they on sale right now for 5 dollars. get a new receiver/drier and a new set of orings. Get out your compressor and blow out the expansion valve, blow out your condenser and evaporator. with compressed air. You will not have to remove condenser or evaporator. make sure to push about 100 psi or better thru them both. I would also do the same and clean the hoses out. At the time you can see if you expansion valve is clogged or maybe stuck closed. once you can see everything is passing cleanly, put it all back together. then vacuum down your system. once sealed add your pag oil and then the 3 1/2 cans of 134a. Most of the time the condenser and evaporator do not need to be replaced unless they have a leak. The weak area's of all ac systems are the ; expansion valve's, schrader valve's, receiver/drier, then the compressor. If one develops a leak in a condenser and evaporator it only 2 things, movement/piercing from out side, or you have developed humidity in the system. humidity in the system will cause corrosion because alkaline levels become acidic. This is why you I always recommend replacing a receiver/drier and vacuum the system down.

if your getting 0 psi in the low side you must have a blockage or a bad schrader valve. schrader valve is the pin that is compressed to allow exchange in service , you have 2 high and low You may also have a bad expansion valve that would be bloacking Freon from entering or leaving the evaporator. Freon starts off being sucked from low side thru the dryer to compressor then becomes high pressure then thru condenser to the expansion valve thru evaporator leaving the expansion valve to low side. If your low side schrader valve is working and low to no psi, you may have blockage or a bad expansion valve