Marine1Texas

EGR will bring down your NOX level, without EGR it will fail the NOX. You could always register in a non Emission country like El Paso County! Adams, Arapahoe, Larimer, and Weld County, don't need emissions if you use address out side of the towns.

it could be in the ignition since that is where most the fuses get power turned on. The other thing is some one wired direct positive wire after a fuse that is resonating back to the fuse panel. I see no way a ground would cause the fuse panel be powered, only ideas come to mind are ignition not shutting off as it should, a wire from battery feeding back, and hard but possible a relay that has shorted out and feeding direct current back in to the fuse panel.

you would have to do some math here. Hills, speed and highways vs city. If you put on 235's you increase 1.18 inchs per turn. At 65 mph your really doing 67.77. So you will be increasing your top end gear and lowering your RPMs. So basically if you hit a hill you will notice it drops faster then normal going up the hill. I my self don't have the 4 cyl, I have the 4.0. When I put the 235's on my stock mj that came with 225's, I noticed no difference. however from 215 to 235 I think you would notice. If your not off-roading and your driving I would stick with the size that it came with for mpg. more to factor in is your 4wd, even in 2wd mode you require more power to go the same speed as a 2wd setup, more weight and a extra gear box the transfer case to turn. So only in a pure math if your wanting mpg same size tires as factory your get best mpg.

The amount of work I think it not worth it. in the end your talking about hp at your top end. no torque increase at all. Basically the easiest thing to do is get your throttle body moded with bigger butterfly and better intake.

I must be one of the lucky ones, have only had water come in from window seal on drive side. fixed it 2 times in 28 years lasts about 10 years before it leaks again. no other leaks for me!

is your alternator working or putting out the right volt and amps? Make sure it is charging the battery of course, I have seen alternator's work well when cold, then after a few when gets hot stop working all together. Make sure you battery is also up to speed and holding a charge not draining as it sits. If the two above are fixed or doing as they should be, your looking at a short some where. The ECU does not control the alternator or starter. however it does turn on Ignition Control Unit, it is below your coil. Ignition Control Unit contacts with the coil, make sure those contacts are clean and not corroded. That can cause low voltage to your spark plugs, looking like no spark. for battery drain I would just to check the starter solenoid, I have seen them fail open and closed also seen then drain a battery dead in less then a day.

mine even looks more different then those 2 above. from the look of it, the box would be much smaller for the copper r12 one. was it a none a/c upgrade from PO? I put a 1988 hvac box with a/c in my non a/c system and it was much wider box!

in my jeep I use a Sony mp3 fm/am radio I got from Frys for 60 bucks. it is much shorter because no cd or cassette, has a higher peak power, 300 watts between 4 speakers. It has a usb2.0/3.0 plug in on the front, where I put a 16gb USB with wma's, and mp3's. I have about 200 songs on it. works great for me, because it will not skip and no need to ever switch anything out.

yes it is the electrical grease that they used. After many years it becomes like tar.

that is a expansion valve of course it is not stock for your Comanche. it is the same kind of design that is used on most house a/c units, I have seen people use them before on car a/c lines and work just fine. If I am not mistaking there is a hose clamp on the other side of the a/c line coming out under the Radiator fill bottle, that will not hold the pressure. that for sure will need to be replaced.

For the exhaust hole just weld it up or patch it, no need to replace and use money on something small like that. CAT is easy to replace and very cheap to replace too, just cut that bad boy off with a sawzall and put a new one on if you thinking of replacing it. no need to even weld it on if you don't want, just get 2 pipe adapters and some clamps. If your in a area like I am in, a 1992 is exempt for emission then you can just hollow it out while still having visual view of it being on the truck!

My Ax15 has external slave, we did it when we installed in. however before the swap I had the internal slave on the BA10. Why not convert to external slave then only if you need to replace clutch you have to pull the tranny! They have many write up for it to be done. Some directions here http://comancheclub.com/topic/33806-ax-15-internal-external-slaves/ this is a good write up here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/ax-15-internal-external-slave-cylinder-clutch-line-write-up-592098/

ATK crate motor?? Or another Vendor? I got it from Summit Racing. hornbrod I have a picture of it up on my signature. The trans we have not pulled apart to see what happen. We know 1st gear just not their anymore, and it was in the 4.0 for about 10k before we bought it and put the 4.6 crate engine in it. I get more picture later. still work in progress ....

I put the crate 4.6 in and when I received the information on warranty it said it needed to be put in by ase licensed mechanic. We did not do as it stated tho. We put the 4.6 in a 1988 Jeep Comanche about 3 months ago. We installed it with a 6=8 Combination Clifford 258 Twin 38 Weber Fuel Delivery System, and a HEI Dizzy. Since we have no emissions here over 24 years old other then mandated visual of a cat. We also installed a New Venture 4500 tranny. The reason for swap is AX15 we had in their got torn up in 1500 miles, could not handle the torque. After the swap we are very happy with mpg improve. When and if my 1987 jeep Comanche engine do's out we will do the same crate motor for it too.

I am not sure where to post this up at. however got a list of close out parts for dirt cheap http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181483&m=wc&l=en&html=true

We had to cut in to the bed to make clearance. We never took pictures, however I will take pictures. it was done in the 90's

I added the same 18gallon tank just on the other side, just behind where your muffler is. Had to re route the exhaust and the muffler. Used a cherry bomb after the rear diff... The filler for tank is a little bit closer on the passenger side to cab tho so not even on both side of the truck.

good to know. not often the ecu go's out so far I have seen

awesome good to hear it!

I would check to see if you do have a small leak in the line in the tank above the pump. for my two Comanche's they stay high pressure for some time after turned off.

agree with above, I my self when I added the 2nd tank on my truck we used 2 piece of angled 90 degree steel to hang the tank on. another idea would be use a sold steel round that went thru frame and have disconnects on each side of the frame. allowing you to remove the steel round holding the straps of the tank easier in the future. This idea only good if one would be moving the fuel tank more often.

for me this happens when I get a small whole in the fuel line in the tank above the fuel pump. The truck runs but become under powered while in gear. I always test the fuel pressure and it is low. Then before I replace pump, I pull fuel sender and pump to find the whole in the fuel line on top of the fuel pump. This is just one thing it can be, rent your self a pressure tester for the fuel line. I my self have never had the relay blow for fuel relay however, if pump is work really hard pumping gas in a loop I could see it drawing higher amps then normal. After fuel test I would check your wiring too, from relay and to pump. you maybe getting a short which can and will blow a relay. Also causing a lower voltage that then the pump needs to keep up. Also one thing to check and update is the ground for your fuel pump, it is located just behind the passenger tail light. refresh the ground however this would not cause a relay to blow....

a low power cps or bad cps will not allow the dizzy to spark, and will not allow the EFI to work. CPS is what tells the engine at what part of crank it is at to inject fuel and to control timing advance and retard. The ecu needs to get a signal constant so both dizzy and efi to work. If the magnet on cps is full of gunk, shavings or what ever, it will cause a low voltage a no start and some times stalls during running. Also make sure the surface is clean and the bolt is mounted right. above Cruiser has a tip on number 7 I think that you drill out hold 3/8 to get a better fit against the bellhousing.

arrow up means shift to a higher gear....

one thing that will not allow the radio to come on for some after market radios is if any speaker lines are grounded. On many radio's they use 2 types of ground, a permeant ground, and a ground that is added thru the antenna cable. I have had radio's in the past that draw high amps use the antenna cable for 75% of the ground....