Marine1Texas

Like creating a baffle or small pan at the bottom of the vent that would hold the water allowing it to dry up or push it to a area that would not be harmful. that is a good idea .

watching your video, sounds like advanced timing to much almost. however I would think it would be all the time. to me does not sound like battery is not bad. Sounds like pre detonation before the cylinder is all the way compressed, causing push back and amps to build on starter. CPS can not be adjusted unless using the advanced timing mod. Other then that no adjustments can be made to cps. With the ECU controlled timing you can not adjust the dizzy timing at all, their is a indexing write up by cruiser on it. I been using HEI setup for 15 years plus and on both my MJ's, but if I recall their is no weights in the dizzy, all ecu controlled. So slacked or stretched timing chain would be the only other way, however I would figure that would be a constant all the time thing. I wonder could a chipped gear on the bottom of the dizzy cause it to advance for a short time? Not sure on that one If a coil go's bad, normally, you get low spark or no spark, and some time intermittent spark. Sounds to me like something is causing it to pre detonation before the cylinder is all the way compressed. Don't sound like starter or coil problem at all.

just watch where if any water can get in. Over wiring is not optimal!

I Did read the thread. He say this is not happening tell have it has been running, and on the restart, so sensors in most cases don't over heat. He is saying the volts are dropping. That means some where is taking amps or getting ground out. the starter would be cranking if it had the amps, unless the dizzy timing was so far advanced or major retarded to give push back. See for the dizzy to get the ok to fire it needs cps to trigger it from the ECU. He is getting volt drops before the cps can even get a signal to the ECU then send timing adjust to dizzy. So before any sensor, before even the ECU, their is a problem the way I see it. before you start a Renix up, the ECU has no clue what the timing is at, that is why you have the cps to let the ecu know that the timing is set at ecu specs and when to fire the injectors. If he is getting either push back from advance that sounds like something wrong in the dizzy. I am not saying to replace the dizzy or coil, I am just saying those are the spots I would test first.

The reason for the tight fit on that was why I did a scoop, I was able to move it clockwise so I do not interfere with anything. I don't get the whistle, but that maybe because the scoop as well, not sure on that. For the oil problem I use a pcv valve on the back and the front has a breather filter. Also since it is going to a foam connection against rubber I am not getting the vibration. I thought that might happen as well.

The starter has nothing to do with the ECU, MAP, intake air temp, coolant temp or any sensors it is 100% controlled by the relay which is wired to the ignition, it should crank the same no matter what, as long as he has the volts, amps and the engine is not firing early or late . From what I get from what he is saying The problem he is having is something is taking the amps away from when it starts while hot Or possibly the timing in the distributor is jumping ahead or way behind. For me the check list would be coil pack and the Dizzy.

Make sure your bolts are tight on your manifold, a small leak can cause weird issues like this. I am sure more will chime in to give other things it could be.

Now your got the starter eliminated. Next Step is to check out that Starter relay.

how new is the starter? I had something like this happen before on my 72 chevy not my mj's. It was caused by some one jumping it with a 24volt when the battery died. The starter worked fine when cold, but when need to start again with in a hour it would cycle very slow and pull heavy amps. Also something to check is if your starter is staying engaged even after you let off the solenoid when starting. The fly wheel could be turning your starter causing it to over heat. I have never had heat soak on my starter and this one is 15 years old now.

I'm guessing that intake is discontinued. Can't seem to find anywhere that has it available. I'm debating doing something like it with my renix setup, but it's a little more of a pain to adapt to the throttle body on them. yes spectre stopped making the complete kit, but you can build one your self. the filter is very available still http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-99456 you can use this part then either buy one like here http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTRE-9943-Cold-Air-Intake-System-97-2006-Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-4-0-6-Cyl-/231900538004?hash=item35fe596494:g:~4gAAOSwAvJXAHBd&vxp=mtr or build your own with http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectre-9833-Inline-Airbox-w-Cartridge-Filter-4-Housing-3-Inlet-Outlet-/311546608006?hash=item48899ff986:g:pZwAAOSwLnlWoEUQ&vxp=mtr basically with part 99456, and 9833 you just add the tubing you want and take it where you want it to either hood scoop, in to firewall or run it down to pull direct cold air.

Cold air take is only good if you can get cold air. I used the spectre cold air intake that takes the air from the fresh air behind the fire wall. I put a small scoop and ran the ducting straight up so it gets only cold air above the hood, also a little force from driving as well. Working very good with the enlarged 62mm Renix throttle Body. I thought it may get water in it when heavy rain, however I have not gotten any water in it yet, after 5 years of using it. You can see the setup of mine by clicking on my picture link. It is the top part of the picture

I found out wiring direct and junking the c101 works best. Takes a bit to do, but you never have to worry about the loose or bad connections in the c101 again. use the nice shrink wrapped connectors so after crimp you shrink them down so no moister can get in.

With all the work your thinking of doing, you could have your renix wiring replaced or rewire everything under the hood manually. I personally like most authentic as possible, and My renix in my 1st MJ is stable as hell with no electrical problems other then the c101 for 29 years now. just wired direct and tossed the c101

Carb conversion needs a HEI dizzy, manifold for carb or a adapter for carb, and a new fuel pressure regulator to drop pressure. At that point you don't need to change anything else. MAP, Knock, CPS, and O2 Sensor no need anymore. If you want you don't even have to required anything but the new pig tails for your Dizzy, you could leave everything as is, leaving computer where it is, just unplug the injectors and plug the holes for them. Clifford performance sales a whole kit if you like!

The HO 4.0 head had a different cam configuration to promote exhaust scavenging, which was why they dropped the EGR. That's what I read

I did not find a relay my self either on my new 88 mj.

Read again, I never stated everyone doesn't need a EGR! I Stated you and "you" alone have a "great engine" because you don't need one! Straight up rid172 tell everyone to break the law and saying something is not needed, but is the law. See not all law breakers get away with it forever and some never get away with it at all. Fact your Engine is not getting to the temps that the original makers designed the engine had in the combustion chamber, so the EGR would be a need to lower the NOx that is great for you. Why are you so confrontational? Trying to change my words around, it's not like I am calling you out or what not! This is a forum on exchanging information, he asked if he needs EGR to pass emission in Colorado. According to Colorado DMV website he needs one if it came with it!

If I remember it was just that VIN check because out of state and the emission check which requires ; visual inspection of emissions equipment, testing the emissions, gas cap seal test, and safety inspection. However in the county I lived in El Paso no longer does emission testing, they only test diesels.

Ride172 you have great running engines that has low NOx and that is fine. You take it to some one in Larimer County that does not do inspection by the rules that is fine you lucky one. MJ Maniac does not live in the same county, and he is from what I see bringing a vehicle in state from another state. If he gets lucky to get a inspection with out the person lifting the hood and looking for those parts that would be awesome. However it he gets some one who go's by the book, auto fail right? Yes, so that go's for any state that has the sniffer test, that is done by the book. When I lived in the Colorado Springs, el paso county during training I had to do the inspection on first registration. It failed because was missing the belt to smog pump. Their was not emission test needed, however visual fail. I am trying to give the person the full information on what is legal. I have a EGR on my 2 MJ but plugged they check every year on inspection here in Texas. I am not a fan of the EGR, however under federal which is below states EGR is required. So states that adopt emission testing and have inspection require it. You can always get inspectors who by pass the laws. The design of the EGR as what I explained earlier, however if you have a great working engine that passes that is great!

A catalytic converter WILL NOT by itself reduce HIGH NOx. The EGR needs to be working for your NOX levels to be lowered in pre 1991 4.0's. The EGR is for cooling down the combustion chamber temperature. As the combustion chamber temperature gets to hot it makes NOx. A lean condition as a result of a false signal from the oxygen sensor, leaking MAP hose, plugged injector, low fuel pressure, or a vacuum leak will cause NOx as well. Under these conditions the oxygen will oxidize the hydrogen and the carbon, creating extreme combustion chamber temperature. This acts much like a cutting torch used to oxidize the carbon atom of the metal. As the temperature climbs the nitrogen atoms will separate and form with the oxygen atoms to create NOx. As the oxygen is used to form NOx, the oxygen will be used up, causing a lot of hydrocarbons to be unused. One way to also lower you NOx is to have 50/50 mix. Too much water will absorb combustion heat and obtain its boiling point rapidly leaving an air pocket around the combustion chamber. The air pocket will become a hot spot allowing for the combustion chamber temperature to rise. 75% or more antifreeze, which forms a blanket around the combustion chamber, keeping heat in and allowing the combustion chamber temperature to rise. The EGR can block up your intake with carbon too, so a good spot to clean up. I am not pro EGR, however in a state that will stick a sniffer in the tail pipe it is needed to pass smog for 1995 and earlier pre OBII engines. I don't use a EGR my self, since 1992 and older is exempt here in Texas.

yep , google seems to give the most overall!

A forum to ask questions and you always have the ones who says read and it is other there. What is a forum for? I am sure almost every question has been asked about a MJ since last one made in 24 years ago. lol Some times I just read these things to bring back info and maybe another easy way found to do something. Stuff like that make people not ask any questions....

I took my c101 out and wired direct. That box has been many issues come from it.

Colorado has had So many California people move to it, that they have turned the state half way to California. They banned some types of shotguns in the state too last year! You can not even collect rainwater legally!

BA-10/5 gets a bad rap that is for sure. However I have one that has 284k on it, and it shifts and runs just fine. We took it out on my 2nd mj when we put in the new 4.6 stroker. It was in a truck that just went from going to the market and light light stuff around northern Texas Highway. However it is a light trans compared to the ax15. It all comes down to how it is used and treated. Most jeepers who off road will tear one up in no time.