Marine1Texas

ok good to know I knew compressor is different but has same bolt match up. SO that means 88 thru 92 should all be the same on the delete mount

Make sure you get the right one. My 87 MJ had a different mount then my 88 both 4.0's. I do have both and pattern it is different both came without a/c. The compressor from 88 90 are the same, then 91 thru 92 the same I don't know if HO and later Renix bolt pattern are the same. however I do know the 87 had different mount then the 88 thru 90

What I did was put a float and a inline pump for the 2nd tank. When I hit a toggle it will transfer the fuel from 2nd tank to the 1st tank, and with the float it will shut off so it don't run dry when tank gets down to half a gallon or so. It is setup like septic float system, but will not activate till I flip the toggle. It is a 18 gallon tank that is just on the other side where the old exhaust muffler was. Basically I can go all over my 240 acres in 4wd low all day any still have plenty to get back and not worry .

I think a beefy axle is a great idea, however you can make a 35 much stronger! many people say the only way it will last is with a beefy axle, that is true if you are offroading often. If your in a street machine that is mainly for highway a dana 35 is just fine. However unless previous owner put a 44 in it, that 86 came with a dana 20 or a dana 35.

I recall the Dana 20 axles are thicker then the dana 44's. My old hummer had a hypoid AMC 20.

So I am guess you have the metric ton 1986. The metric ton MJ from 86 with the AMC 20 had two shafts Driver side 28.31 and Passenger side 25.31. It is the same as the CJ that they called the wide track from 83 to 86.

As above said did you check fault codes? Did you do a fuel pressure check? Unless the manual trans was not releasing disengaging the clutch that would have nothing to do with the way it idles. I would check your codes first then make sure you have done all cruiser tips, also make sure you have no vacuum line leaks.

if you have a dana 44 you can only go up to 3.73 with a normal ring and pinion that is the carrier break. If you can find a thick gear then you don't have to change your carrier break. I have a dana 3.31 going to move at least to a 3.73. I may end up with a 4.11, however I will have to buy a new carrier break. If you change carrier break and you use open housing like OEM then you can just change out your spider gears. I found at www.ronsmachiningservice.net 150 for a ring set for the dana 44, and a carrier for 80 dollars. All you need is new bearings and shims then your ready to go.

I will check for the thick gear for the 30, I am not sure they make them. I know they don't make them for the 35, or the 15. But on my old Humvee with the dana 20 they made the thick ring gear, however it was a 2.73. Thanks for that Hornbrod I forgot all about the thick gears.

yea the pinion bearing broke is what happen. I pulled the pinion and seen it was trashed. so I would not leak trany fluid from the transfer case I put a new bearing in on the pinion, and took out the ring gear. I always save my old ones so I have a few in the shop.

Well today it was rain pretty good and was in the back 40 in 4wd. None the less when I got back to the house my rear end is making some noise. I put it on the lift and yep noise from rear end, then removed the back cover and yep 3 teeth from ring gear are in the bottom of the dana 44 case. I am running 3.31 in front and back. So I need a new ring and pinon at least. the Dana will go up to 3.73 before I have to change, however the front carrier break is maxxed at 3.55. You think 3.55 all the way around is good enough? or you think I should lay the cost out for the new carrier in the front and go 3.73. the other thing is try to find another dana 44 with 3.31! I removed the ring and put everything back in so that I can still drive it but have to use the front wheel drive till I get ordered the new parts. By the way it is a 87 mj 4.0 with oversized throttle, larger injectors, ax15 with np241 metric ton version.

You can always do the cheap locking both axles to gather by welding the spider gears. makes it a little harder to turn on the streets but you get good traction when your offroading

I have seen bad cps sensors from the big box auto part retailers before. Also make sure you have done the ground updates in cruisers list. The way around using cps for coil spark activation is HEI dizzy.

Could have a clog! Did you replace the rubber lines that were in the tank connected to the fuel pump? My pumps never go bad, just ever 8 or 9 years a small pin hole gets in the hose at the top and starts spilling gas back in to the tank .

is it the internal slave? I have had internal slaves go out very soon after a clutch job my self, when the surface of the flywheel was getting to thin. However I have not had the issue that is would not fully engage.

misspelled, I meant debri! I guess that's what I get for typing too fast and not reading it on the phone

what year any engine you got? If you have derby in fuel filter, also can happen when you have a fuel pump is on it's last leg. Have you check the fuel pressure?

Could also be a low voltage on your cps! a loose or corroded cps connection. Also have you did the Cruiser Tips? Make sure your fuel pressure is around 39 with vaccum off the fuel pressure regulator and with vaccum on 31 psi. If you have low pressure it could mean a failing pump or a bad regulator with a possbile loose or corroded wiring! With Cruisers tips you refresh the ground connection behind the driver side rear break light. Many other things it could be too. Tune up could be needed as well?

Do you have the BA10/5? do you have any leaking hydraulic fluid from the clutch? The internal slave tend to leak some times. A few months ago my internal slave was leaking a small bit causing this to happen, had to replace it. It happens even on the AX15 with internal slave

The temp sensor on these things are there to keep them from freezing up. In most cases these jeeps run ac can not freeze up. If your running it like I do in Texas above 80's it will not freeze up. Also with the humidity it would not freeze up unless you had hardcore failure in the evap valve while the compressor was suck on. I don't use the sensor on either of my MJ's. I install the temp sensors on home, and commercial units, however they are way more cooling power and controlled by a unit. In your truck you click the button for a/c on or off and adjust the temp to turn it on and off when you turn it off the clutch will shut off pump and pressure drops then no need for temp sensors anyway.

http://downeyproductsnortheast.com/sst-206040-jeep-comanche-7-long-bed.html I think this is what you want. I got this one Looks like this

The AX15 external line is shorter then the one with internal slave. It might work. I would like to know when you do. My AX15 internal started leaking about a month ago, and had to remove it all to change it out. The disc was is very good shape, but changed it all anyway since I was in there. Such a pain in th butt to half to disconnect everything just for that damn slave.

Welded it up today. I notice the metal they use it very weak. I think I am good shape for a while.

Thanks Rockfrog! I just never herd of it before, I will just weld it!

Yea I will probably weld it. I was just hoping that there is a part that could order. Yea will weld it and then keep looking. Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk