Rockfrog

the one down by your butt cheek just pulls off, same way the window handle pulls off. The one up by your shoulder needs a pin punched out, and then full seat back disassembly.

easy enough, pull the panel, and reach in release the rod clips and spend some time trying to pry the retainer clip out while avoiding a shattered knuckle. replace cylinder and reattach rods and retainer clips and continue with time on getting the clip back in securely. The hardest part about the job is the clip. had to replace both of mine when I got the MJ as one lock had a key broken off in it. I left a lot of the obvious stuff out .. you can also drill one of the handle bracket rivets out to get some extra arm room, just rpleace with a short bolt and nut ... plenty of room. Don't break the plastic clips or you get to have fun trying to match up the correct clip size at the parts store. Tie string to the rods once unhooked ... makes driving around for a week without the above broken clip easier, and gives you something to tie the rods up so the don't fall back inside the door. I bought a set off ebay for pretty damn cheap ... Omix-Ada brand ... been fine and functional since July-ish

I run my drivers seat slightly tilted back ... but I'm not 7' tall either ... an inch under 6'.

Cool gonna go grab me some old new process fill/drain plugs the dude ... shoot me a message if you want my old tube.

my old stock 88 MJ buckets had the seat back angle adjustment ... small black lever on the door site of the seat base. One lever was missing but the function was still there. The "new" seats I put in had the same functions - came from a 92 2dr XJ. Now I have all functions on my seats again. Tilt forward via shoulder height lever, seat angle down by by door side butt cheek, and seat position between my legs. There are also two small adjustable rubber bumpers inside the seat frame that can be adjusted to remove the rattling seat back many of us are used to. Been inside my seats a fair bit over the last month ... one of my seats refused to tilt forward ... so I fixed it.

does anyone know the thread sizes at the manifold? I'd be happy to mail you mine if I can plug it. Planning a late model swap shortly so my EGR is no longer in use.

It goes like this (on a 4.0L but the heater plumbing is the same). I used all 5/8" hose here ... fits fine one circuit, bit tight but doable on the other. And no, the heat is not on all the time ... just saying.

Only the CAD year 231s had synchros ... the later years didn't have them either.

motor oil and gear oil is rated much differently from each other ... most manual transmissions prior to the mid 80's shipped with either 10w30 or straight SAE 30 weight oil. Gear oil is closest in consistency to SAE30.

My 88 has idle issues ... occasionaly starts with a high idle, sometimes as high as 3000rpm but usually around 2500. When it happens I just turn it off, restart, turn off restart until it idles fine again. Usually goes back to normal after three starts. I have a new IAC and will eventually replacebthe tps but it's not a major problem for me at the moment. I'll deal woth it when I tackle the wiring and head swap (HO head, intake, and exhaust).

I swapped my Renix nipple for an HO nipple so now I just use the Ford FL-1A's or Purolator L30001 in my 88 MJ and in my '00 XJ ... I can find that style of filter just about anywhere.

my e-brake last worked the day I brought it home ... was engaged then. When I got done the test drive it wouldn't engage at all, not a single click or nothing. One day I'll get around to figuring out what to do about it.

any limited XJ will be non-CAD as well ... they had the NP242's

http://www.thecarconnection.com/tips-article/1004325_gm-prods-ecotec-to-1000-hp found this on the GM motor mentioned

With those little 4 bangers they spin them past 16,000rpm (some of them spin that in stock form), then add turbo/supercharger and shot or 12 of nitrous ... in essence sacrificing engine life for fun. There have been a few factory 800+hp motors produced over the years ... the Ford RS200 had (in one form) an 850hp 4 (can't remember if they used the 1.8 or 2.0 for that) ... but after each race it was pretty much burned out and required full rebuild. take that 1000HP motor and it's likely only pushing 260 ft-lbs of torque at peak .... the work like a 2 stroke, not a lot down low rpm, but they pull off the top end. As the curve climbs torque actually drops past the 5252rpm mark (also at which point HP and torque are equal values) The 2.5L is internally similar to the 4.0L so their limitations are equal. It's going to need to breathe ... alot more than the stock head is capable of for 1000hp. There are supercharger and turbo kits available for the AMC 4 (well there used to be at least, if not still). But whether the stock internals would handle spinning upwards of 12-16000 rpm is another issue all together. Getting 250hp from one is doable fairly easily I would imagine but once you reach the limits of the stock engine .... spinning it faster is the only other solution ... The AMC designs were tractor-esque more than race inspired.

Are you 100% positive that popping was coming from the Tcase? With nothing holding the Tcase yoke from turning, the Tcase will be quite hard to get in/out of 4wd/2wd (just ask anyone who's had to roll without the front shaft for a bit). If the front axle is fine at least one tire should be turning regardless. But, if you welded it ... I would say you blew something (carrier/spiders/pinion ... or inner part of axle shaft at seal).

Sunspension (Trac bar) needs re-adjusting. The suspension has settled, or shifted and now the axle is being pulled to the drivers side (like it would under droop). Start by loosening the Trac bar, LCA and UCA bolts, bounce the front end and then retighten the LCA's then UCA's and finally the tracbar. Make xsure the vehicle is on the ground on it's own weight while doing this. If the Ball joint was responsible for the shift it would only affect one side, and it would be quite obvious if it was out that much ... the wheel would be at an angle or there would be blatant broken parts. If the Hub was the cause ... again tehre would be a significant angle issue at the wheel. The design of the axle and suspension kinda prevents one wheel from shifting over to one side that much without a blatant failure point. In order for the axle to shift and push the tire out ... the hub and brake caliper would have to fail, or the knuckle would have to seperate from the axle.

I'm working on the same deal for both my XJ (trail rig/DD) and my MJ when I convert it. really it's just extending the stock shift arm below the body and either making or using a different range selector arm on the 'case. I'm getting some custom arms cut but a YJ or S10 arm works just as well

consider it an MJ easter egg hunt

Given the 904 trans (having no O/D) NP228 or NP207 (same ratios anyway) and 215/75/15 tires geared 3.73 = 3108rpms at 65 mph geared 4.10 = 3416rpms at 65mph now ... if he happens to have 4.56 gearing for some weird reason ... that number becomes 3799 rpms at 65mph ... methinks one should pull the covers, or find a tag if still there and verify gear ratios.

I found mine in my Passenger side door panel when changing my door lock cylinders ... skewered by the arm rest screw. Wasn't nearly as fancy looking as that Chrysler one as it was AMC. Made me feel like one of them Mustang and Camaro guys for about 15 seconds ...

For simplicities sake the Timbren seems the better option, less to go wrong and only really comes into play when needed.

yep, should help things out, but whatever damage is already there is there. Hopefully the wierd shifting issues weren't wear related.

NO, as I stated before it's the EP additives that are corrosive to the brass synchro's. It's what they put in the oil that causes the problem, not the oil. I didn't say the oils were the same I said they were equivalent. The viscosities are similar.

Yep straight motor oil is fine as well, used to be time tranny oil was just plain 30W. gear oil is graded differently than motor oil ... 10w30 is equivalent to 75w90 ... they just have different additive packages. motor oil?? Redwolf