Rockfrog

joy, this oughta be fun now ... crap

swap the plates around? is it possible the plates are on backwards ... ???

Looks like I need the Standard DS572 switch (wiring matches) ... ordered one. I have a non-tilt column, anyone have a link to how to replace the switch? Can't seem to find much info with google.

Yeah looking at it again ... the calipers looks fine ... the pads ride on the "ears" not the calipers. If that is what you have now (pictured) have you added pads? The picture shows the caliper unloaded ... so there is no way they will fit as they are incomplete. Or is the issue that the bolt spacing is incorrect where the pins go into the bracket? Or are we talking about the caliper not being centered over the rotor (but it being a sliding caliper ...). There should really only be two types of caliper available .... more or less, pre 90 Bendix calipers and 90+ Chryco calipers (similar situation with 4wd knuckles - only two types) ... My '00 XJ uses the same calipers as a 93 does (but the wheel hub and rotors differ greatly). The 2wd should only have two flavours and use the earlier Bendix caliper for the bolt on bracket with bearings in rotors, and the later Chryco caliper for the unit hub style (but as mentioned I don't think the MJ ever got the later unit hub/Chryco caliper style front end as production was halted prior to the changeover). Also ... I have more often than not received the wrong parts in the right box.

so I got a replacement wiring harness from an 88 XJ .... it happened to come with a delay box as well. I had a delay box in the MJ already, but was having issues with the wipers when installed. The wipers would not do the wash swipes with the box in, and the mist function was hit or miss. I would only get Hi wiper function, and one swipe on delay. Changed the box and same thing. If I pull the box I get no wash movement, just fluid sots, but the mist works, and I get hit or miss slo, but still get hi (at same speed as slo). So, am I looking at this the wrong way? should I be looking at the wiper switch as the problem, or should I dive into the wiring? Wiper motor is a new replacement from Team Cherokee. I rebuilt my old on so it's good to go as well now. I haven't swapped the XJ harness in yet but that will be a future plan. Any help?

I believe the 2wd format changed in '93 so the MJ's should still be a bearing in rotor assembly with bolt on caliper bracket for 2wd still. Have you tried looking at pre 90 4wd calipers?

the Iron Duke 2.5L 151cid was used in the CJ's ... it was replaced by the 150cid AMC 2.5L in 84, which was for all intents and purposes a 4.0 with the two center cyl removed (yeah, that's over simplifying it, but it's close enough). In other words the IRON DUKE never saw duty in an XJ/MJ/YJ chassis.

Does the vacuum harness for the front diff run to the bottle? that would explain the extra lines ... I have a 2wd so I wouldn't know on that one. My vacuum system is down to the just "needs to be there" now (so CCV, MAP and FPR). Last two trips were 26.4 mpg (493km using 52.6L) and 25.4 mpg (471km using 52.1L) I ran it like a raped ape a little for the last one. With 4wd you likely won't get that high but it should be in the 24mpg range on the high side I would imagine. Still have the stock IAC, MAP, CTS and TPS but the O2 sensor was replaced 2 months ago. Cleaned the snot out of the IAC and throttle body a month ago, and ran a bottle of Seafoam through one of the EGR hoses (half by vacuum pull and the other half in the tank), used to have a sticky IAC but with regular driving that issue is slowly going away. This is what you should see to the vacuum bottle ... with a second main line coming from the heater core to the heater control valve in the heater lines (that's the purple one I mentioned) But looking at this diagram ... it looks like, as with all things Jeep ... there were a few options. although looking at them, they are each just more complicated versions of the simple ball style system (I'm guessing you may have the one pictured far right ... which looks to feed into just two lines outgoing really). I moved my reservoir to the corner between 3 and 5 and deleted everything past it. I'll go snap a picture of it now with it cleaned up better. the third bottom option looks like the greyed out harness is the vacuum shift motor harness for the front axle CAD.

I'm running TJ rims with 235/75r15s with no issues on my 2wd 88 MJ.

If you have time, look at it, pop the valve cover and rotate the motor ... if the valves move, it's probably not the chain. I've run into a number of "it's screwed" vehicles that were ridiculously simple fixes in reality. One was as simple as a set of plug wires put in the correct firing order (I can thank Haynes for that deal, printed a wrong firing order and saved me cash). I've replaced the timing chain on my old 92YJ 2.5L a few years back, along with the oil pan gasket (only took a couple hours to do) ... if you have OK skills it's simple but time consuming job. Plan it for a full day, just to cover surprises ... pull the header and rad and there's loads of room to work.

I just use my Ball joint press ... get it good and tight, hit knuckle with BFH at outside of BJ hole, tighten Ball Joint press again, BFH, tighten ... pop. Last one was pretty stubborn (OEM from '89), but they eventually popped. Was just about to add heat as well.

TJ D44 and JK D44 are not compatible animals, there were a number of bearing and reference changes with the JK D44. Basically it's an offset gear set, so high ratio carrier with low ratio gears (thicker gear set). It is possible to mix the parts but you'll need to determine which bearings to use and have a really good shop rate come install time, expect double the norm if not doing the work yourself ... at least. I've seen a few recipes for using JK gears in a TJ D44 but none the other way yet. You'd be ahead of the game to find a HP44 from a 76 F150 (they were still 1/2" tubes) with drums (they go cheaply) them cut to waggy spec and convert to disk (simple knuckle swap) ... then you'd have your $1250 axle. The only good part of a TJ d44 is the center section, the rest is standard d30 fare ... not worth it IMHO. But, to each their own.

poor alignment has been my main cause over the course of my battle. Usually as something moves and allows a large enough change ... tie rods and drag links can offer this. Especially if the base setting is right out to begin with. An extra 1/8" of toe in too much on worn front end components, and the highway can become the thing of nightmares. Too little caster and again you're looking for new shorts. Usually, in my experience, DW is the result of multiple issues (small on their own), adding up to the right results at the wrong time. Add a lift in and it multiplies (again, usually cause you messed with the angles), small issues on stock geometry can result in a new undies bought of DW with a lift involved. It takes one hell of a bump for just a tracbar to start DW with low control arm angles (think hitting a big speed bump at 75 or so), less so when you lift. I'm willing to bet your alignment is out of spec enough, that a loose tracbar is acting as the catalyst. In my case it all started with poor alignment ... it wasn't causing it per se ... but add in a flexing tracbar bracket (that's a new one to me .. I just found it ... needed the power steering to find that one), and a bad UCA bushing ... DW. It's been a long battle for me, hope yours is shorter.

there should only be one going to the vacuum bottle (black hose), then it T's off at the heater core (purple hose). Although, if you have cruise control there will be another T at the Servo close to the battery. On the passenger side there will also be the EVAP lines but they are larger an unmistakeable (3/8" plastic snaking behind the motor). There should only be the one 3/16" line (the black one) running behind the motor to the first vacuum tree on the manifold. The rest of the lines, With the exception of the MAP line are contained in the vacuum harnesses mentioned earlier. They pertain mainly with the EGR system (valve, transducer and solenoid) really (although the forward end of the CCV is in the two main harnesses). The MAP, FPR, and CCV orifice line are separate system lines. It's actually a fairly simple vacuum system for the time period. I'm going off memory, I'm a loooooong way away from my MJ right now, might have missed a line.

WRONG! The Durango steering box is stronger than a Cherokee or Comanche one, but they don't steer any further. Some can actually steer the same amount, but most have to be modified internally just to match the limits of the stock XJ ones. Less backspacing might help keep the tires off the control arms, but can cause problems with the tires hitting the fender flares. Aftermarket or WJ lower control arms will help keep the tires off also, but as noted above, you're still limited by the steering stops on the axle. x2 ... I avoided the Durango box on my XJ as I didn't want to lose turning radius. Most get the turning radius back buy modifying the box internally, or running a longer pitman (SJ). to the OP ... The problem you face is your are still steering a long truck, trying to turn the wheels tighter just isn't practical, they already turn tight as is. Although I always wondered how tight you could get before snapping a ujoint in a parking lot? :dunno: :D

Another on the "not the tracbar" bandwagon ... my 88 was purchased with a severely worn out tracbar mount. The ball end was tight but the mount was walled and allowed almost a half inch of play side to side. It was a weird feeling steering until the axle moved enough for the steering actually move the wheels. But no DW whatsoever, I was shocked really as I was expecting something. My '00 XJ made sure I was well accustomed to DW, right up until the 3-link longarm upgrade. I like to think I helped keep Fruit-of-the-loom in business during that time period.

OK, new starter and she running again. Going to replace the relay and keep the old one as a spare anyway.

bit more info ... I get a click at the starter solenoid with the lead on the relay coonected, unhook it and no click. so I'm guessing my solenoid is the culprit here? Just happened to not like the changes?

Would the relay be a logical assumption? It Original equipment, Or should I look at the starter ... getting a relay order in for this afternoon, and they do have a starter on hand. I just checked voltage at all grounds and leads and I have a steady 12.37V even all the way to the firewall to block ground (replaced that with 4ga lead). The Battery leads are Store jobby 4ga leads. And again I have a steady 12.37V at the starter solenoid stud, and the relay. I did get it to turn over for a second but it hasn't so much as twitched since.

Just replaced the battery leads and the chassis ground ... now I just get a click. Went through all leads and sanded clean, tried another battery (this one started a 460/c6 combo recently so it's good). I tried jumping the solenoid and the starter spins freely ... I think I have to get a second body to hold the key in the start position correct? To get it to actually start? The motor will not crank, I just get a click. Are the relays easily found, or can I swap in a Ford style relay if needed?

A question was asked, I answered it ... issues? Then you go on to chastise me, while describing a completely different system. And in the grand scheme of things keeping the engine running close to prime, is important to fuel economy with a Jeep 4.0 ... although IMO economy and Jeep are mutually exclusive terms. But a functioning vacuum system is part of the process, and poor running engine due to a leaking vacuum system will most likely waste more fuel than an EVAP system will recover in the same time frame. But that's a discussion for another day.

My MJ has stock rear springs, and with just that, the rear end hops around on rough roads in ths twistys (the highway to where I work looks like some one dropped a ball of yarn and said "build that"). I'd be leary of increasing that kind of spring rate. It's stiff enough as is. That said my XJ has a dakota bastard in the rear for 4" of spring lift. Increasing the spring rate will make thw springs good for the heavier load, but does nothing for the chassis which is only good for so much weight.

Maybe in your parts but I haven't seen a YJ or XJ, let alone and MJ in the yards around here for close to a decade ... And even then they are just bare shells. Most around here are crushed or still running. And hopping a ferry to the mainland for better pickings adds $120 to the bill ... Makes fixing pretty thrifty. On that note ... Got her all zipped up again ... Tunes, wipers, and the radio works again ... Sorta, pretty crappy reception, but it pulls in more than without the antenna hooked up. Added a second ground for the radio chassis and added a ground from dash to. A steering support rod bolt (couldn't locate any unused studs, there was nothing above the hood latch at all). Sandwiched the ground between the support rod and the chassis, should be just as good.

yeah, so do I ... but I'm getting better ... but definitely not by choice. Thanks for the welcome, I've been a closet addict for a few years here, finally joined. It's nice to have a dedicated resource for these old trucks ... she may not be much to look at but she sure is a hoot to drive.

So I got home and started trying to decipher what the PO was doing with the wiring. Hooked things back up to stock. For some reason the ETR circuit was showing 12V but wasn't putting enough amps out to power the radio. As the only other thing the circuit powers is the clock I skipped it, snipped it, and terminated it. Pulled the heater panel, and pulled the entire radio harness out underneath, remove the two wires I needed (the ground, and the purple w/ orange trace (switched 12V that also feeds the cig lighter). taped up the rest and laid them to rest to rest in the back bowels of the dash. The PO had made such a mess that it was best. With the ground and switched 12V run I ran a main power wire pulling power off the not used rear window circuit. Used a 1/4" tap, 14g wire and put a 20A fuse inline (there is a 15A on the radio's power input but I wanted a fuse at the block in case the wire chafed through). Hooked it up and I had music again. Now I just have to figure out what's going on with the antenna, I still have no radio reception. I'm thinking the wire is broken internally as it's got a good kink in it. changed my circuit breaker adapter for a 15A breaker smallest I could find until I get a Ford/GM style (two screw terminal so I can use eye rings and tap into the existing circuit and find the damn thing anywhere .... but they are usually 7.5A - close enough). Popped the wiper delay module open and re-soldered some cracked terminal solders joins and gave it a good cleaning ... result - I now have delay but now I have lost the mist function (had it before and without the box so I must have missed something). Need a wiper module and wiring function schematic and I should be able to fix it (re-assemble the box with screws so it's easier to get into now). So now I have tunes, and delay wipers ... and the dash wiring is much less chaotic. Next is wiring/soldering some connectors inline with the dome lights, I just twisted the wires onto the terminals and taped them so I could get them functioning first off. Picked up a pair of the euramtec lights. I want to convert them to LED as well but I'll just wire my own in direct to the housings, and add a center overhead mount light slaved off one of the sides as well (my eyes are getting too old for the dim stock dome positions. When My new harness gets here I'm going to strip the unneeded spaghetti out of it. She's coming. On another note I found a deal on a 3.55 HP D30 .. traded a set of WJ tie rods ends for it. Found a 4wd BA10/231 combo for $75 and picked up a new trans mount for $40 plus shipping. Going to convert my existing trans and start looking for a NP242 and an AX-15 for later on. The idea is to make this old girl the year round get me to work truck and winters through the mountain passes are pretty much a 4wd affair with ice and snow.