Rockfrog

He had a 2.5L ... they come stock with 4.10s ... turning 28" tall tires. Put 32s on there and you'll be wanting deeper gears asap. 4.56 is as deep as I'd want to go in a D30 as you're more likely to grenade gears at 4.88. Not even going to mention the D35. You will most likely he able to live with the stock 4.10s and 32s if you stick to city driving and off road use ... but hit the highway and you're going to lose top gear. As for the charts ... they weren't designed around 5th gear ... most spec RPM/speeds at 1:1 (4th gear) and the range is usually optimal more for a V8.

don't have Cordovan Headrests my interior is grey ... but my steering column, steering wheel and horn button are Cordovan.

I can tell you right now that was never in a Ford F250 stock ... wrong brakes for starters ... Ford 3/4T brakes were massive dual piston units. And they were driverside drop ... and as mentioned setup spring over axle. That axle is upside down (notice the vent) making it anything but a ford axle given passenger side drop.

The stock JK wheels have a deeper backspacing (6.25") than earlier jeeps. With the 1.25" spidertrax spacer adapters I used to run on the XJ the wheels were equivalent to the stock 5" bs wheels. That said even my 4.0 had trouble turning them with stock gearing until I went to 4.56. With the 2.5 ... 4.88 would be the minimum ratio. 5.13 may prove better but would need axle swaps to accomplish.

What did you torque the shackle bolts to? Disregard the service manuals and torque to 65 ft-lbs ... or follow what most other leaf sprung trucks do and tighten just past spin so the shackle moves with some resistance but not bound in like the stock setup. You'd be surprised how smooth the rear will be. It allows the suspension to do its job amd not just fight spring rates

That's a vent line for the front axle.

My 88 the day I brought it home June 2013 just after Father's Day she's gotten a bit ugglier as I slowly prep her for new paint in spring ... while still driving her daily.

the MJ shackle hanger is nothing like the XJ's. the MJ uses two plates welded to either side of the frame rail. The XJ uses a box welded to the outside of the frame rail and up futher towards the middle of the rail (with an internal captured nut the bolt passes into. XJ shackle relocation brackets tie into this bolt, and into the lower portion of the frame rail to mimic the stock MJ configuration. An XJ bracket will simply not work for an MJ in this instance. If you have the ability to fabricate a relocation bracket ... then you can weld two 1/4" plates to the existing location and drill as many adjustment points as you want. MJ XJ XJ with relocation brackets (mine)

x2 my 2000 xj is exactly like that.

The first pictured VC uses a traditional PCV setup (PCV valve at front and breather at the back in the picture). The second picture (red VC) uses the later CCV system ... much simpler and doing the same job. To use it you will need the orifice fitting for the rear of the VC (indexed hole at the back of the VC). Then run a hose from that to the intake manifold nipple. Then hook a hose from tje front brass nipple to the air box nipple. Or move the current PCV valve to the rear opening (may require some openning resizing) and again run a hose from the front brass nipple to the airbox as long as it is getting filtered air.

Nope, the amount of lift gained from a shackle is 1/2 of the distance difference between the old shackle and the new shackle. So if ne shackle is 2" longer it raises the vehicle 1" ... the shackle rotates the suspension on the forward pivot.

None exist that I know of ... they arose as a result of the XJ's internal shackle bolt. Not needed on an MJ. You can redrill a new hole forward of the old one if needed ... or have new shackle plates welded to the frame.

yellaheep had a set I'm buying ... thanks. I'm not a fan of Cordovan ... swapping out my Cordovan column, steering wheel and horn button for somthing in grey (apparently my steering column was swapped at some point as it matches nothing in my truck)

it's velcro'd to the lower dash panel just under the steering column ... black box about 3" square ... one plug on each side

they slide into the holes and snap into place once flush. If they won't stay (usually because the clips are broken) wrap them with some electrical tape for now and order a set of the euramtec replacements ... or hope you can find a set of stock one one day.

Been using MotoRad thermostats from the local Canadian Tire here for well over two decades ... usually the Failsafe variety ... never had an issue. recently put a stant in my 88 MJ and it's running a steady 160 degrees ... so picked up a MotoRad Failsafe 195 to replace it eventually.

I replaced the rad in my 88 with the leftover from my 2000 Xj when I redid it's cooling system. Currently I have the 2000 rad, a 92 coolant bottle and plan to use the 92 thermostat housing when I get the chance to swap the thermostat again. Ran both heater hoses direct to the Core using 5/8" bulk hose and some hose "directors" or whatever the real name is. The 2000 rad was a direct swap, a little tight to the airbox but not any kind of problem - just need to pull the airbox when undoing the forward clip.

I'm interested in a pair ... just plain raw aluminum is fine for me.

Looking for light grey or dark grey. PM ing you yellaheep

looking for a pair of the open hole center Laredo style headrests. Thanks

I have one from a 92 2.5L if that works?

I picked up the goofy tool of e-bay a few months back for a couple bucks shipped ... 8mm and 10mm square drive sockets in the package for use with my 3/8" ratchet. keep them in the glove box.

Chatted with the guy I got the axles from and he's gonna pull the 95 ZJ booster (dual diaphragm) master prop valve and whatever else is attached. My LSV works great for now so I'll keep it and just update the booster and master eventually. My XJ runs WJ front brakes on the HP30, ZJ/TJ (mix) rear brakes on the 8.25 with stock booster, master and prop valve ... and brakes perfectly even in wet weather the rears don't lock up until after the fronts, rolling on 35s. It stops better than it did stock and tracks straight in all cases. My main point of concern was that LSV as it's a foreign concept to my addled brain. The entire braking system was redone previous to my purchase of the MJ so I was hoping it would work out similar to my XJ did. Thanks for the tips and experiences ... it's helping me slowly make the MJ better.

Perfect, I had a similar experience with my XJ ... still running the stock prop valve and the brakes lock up exactly as they were supposed to ... fronts first. No dragging rears and exceptional braking performance since the WJ knuckle swap. It was just the LSV I was questionable on. Thanks for the good news.

OK so I'm going to throw a ZJ rear D35 into my MJ ... cheap regear to 3.73 from 3.07 ... it's just a daily driver mainly stock vehicle so the D35 is fine for my needs. It has Disk brakes so I'm wondering how the load valve will affect that? can I just swap it in and drive? or will I need to tackle the prop valve at the same time/? More to the point can I drive to the fab shop, have them do the welding of new perches and bolt it up, then after the usual hookups and bleeds ... expect to be able to drive home? I've done the swap already on my XJ but I'm not sure on how the load sensing valve will affect things ... if it's not a problem then great, 1 step closer to 4wd (I have the matching front as well)