Rockfrog

That modification being new spring perches. You will need to shorten your driveshaft for both the 8.25 AND the D44. Now finding a D44 ... that is bolt in .... can you say hens teeth? You will most likely be using an XJ axle when you find one ... unless you start passing horseshoes.

Ok so doing a little re reading ... you are more likely to find a D44 in 3.55 anyway. But again I mention the 8.25 from an XJ without ABS. The are as strong as a D44 and far easier to find. Look for a 4.0L with automatic to find a 3.55 gear ratio. They were used from 92 to 2001 (27 spline to 96 and 29 spline after that). Way easier to find one of those really.

Huh? They come in multiple gear ratios depending on the drivetrain combination. If you go shopping for axles, just look for a similar drivetrain check the tag ... you may have to pop the cover and read the stamping. If you have 4.10 currently look for an XJ or MJ with a 4cyl engine and 5spd transmission. The XJ axle will just need new perches welded on but starting in 1992 the were using the 8.25 in the back.

Sometimes enough to crank sometimes not. I leave it parked for 8 days when I work out in camp. Charging is PCM controlled .. if you pull the battery engine won't run like earlier self regulating systems. When I would get enough charge to start the engine I would still have to keep my foot on it until the battery was charged up enough to maintain a running idle ... otherwise it would die every time I shifted into R or D and when I let off the throttle. Still started up each time though. I just chalked it up to having the regulator in the pcm which requires a specific voltage. That and so do all the sensors sending it data. Once I reached a steady state it was good until the next time I forgot to unplug the rechargable flashlight when heading out to work. If the battery is taking a dump ... same scenario. The IAC is the small tube sensor on the injector side of the TB. Two T20 or T25 screws hold it on. Pull and carefully clean it with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. Clean the seat inside the housing as well.

The EVAP cannister and EGR system are two seperately functioning systems. The EVAP is just a series of lines running from the fuel tank to the cannister, then from the cannister the the airbox. It captures fuel vapors thatvare then drawn in by vacuum. Simple as that. There were no purge solenoids in our years, it'just a simple system. But one that I'd keep personally. On my 88 it wasn't connected to the EGR solenoid that I saw. The EGR is another system altogether. I deleted mine for the same reasons ... it was NFG and falling apart. All that remains now is the valve itself until I swap heads and use a later manifold this spring.

When my XJs battery gets low it won't run .... takes a few minutes driving before it'll idle on it's own.

The stock JK wheels have a deeper backspacing (6.25") than earlier jeeps. With the 1.25" spidertrax spacer adapters I used to run on the XJ the wheels were equivalent to the stock 5" bs wheels. That said even my 4.0 had trouble turning them with stock gearing until I went to 4.56. With the 2.5 ... 4.88 would be the minimum ratio. 5.13 may prove better but would need axle swaps to accomplish. 4.0 auto with 3.55's will turn 32x11.5's just fine on and off-road. I would not try it with the 2.5 even with 4.10's. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html You can go to that site and play with different axle ratios and tire sizes to see the effect the various changes will have on your jeep. What you think is fine, and what I think is fine, are apparently different. I ran JK 32s on my 4.0 XJ for about 3 months before the regear. Compared to stock it was a dog. After the regear it was much better. Now rolling the same gears (4.56) with 35s I'm much happier. Either way at least we can agree the 2.5 will need gearing. From past 2.5 experience ... you can roll then in stock form, but you WILL lose use of 5th in all but a looong downhill run (may need a strong tail wind as well) and you may possible lose 4th in many situations. The motor is going to work hard just to roll them so expect to get 60s/70s era fuel mileage.

When I bought my 88 MJ the owner said it was a 4spd ... with a 4.0 I thought that a bit odd. Turned out he just didn't know where to find 5th ... it had a hurst T shifter handle (bloody uncomfortable I might add) and he just assumed it was a 4spd. I showed him 5th gear on the test drive.

http:// http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm There ya go 8 pages that explain them all, open, limited slip, locker, even tcase differentials.

D44 was only in the rear 87-89 (others will know yhe exact years) prior to that was an AMC20. The front axle has always been a D30. Limited Slip is a clutch pack loaded differential that prevents the unloaded wheel from spinning and allowing power to transfer to tue wheel with traction. Btheybdo have a slipping point where power will eventually take the path of least resistance and routebtobthe unloaded wheel. An LSD simply clamps both shafts together up to the slip point ... it doesn't redirect anything .... a full locker will prevent any one wheel from spinning slower than another. An open diff just sends power to the path of least resistance .... so you end up with the tire in the air spinning.

Do you have CAD? Then it's pretty much guaranteed to be a D30. They kinda look similar in a one eye closed at 20' kind of way. But if you are unfamiliar with axles I can see the confusion. here's a guide. Open is one tire fire, Limited slip is two tires spinning (some of the time)

The resistors sole purpose is to reduce voltage to the blower to give you SLOWER fan speeds ... to answer the question ... yes if you remove it you will only have hi speed as 12v goes to the fan. When the resistor fails the symptom is a loss of slower fan speeds.

That hose is a simple throwback to carbureted days. On anyvfuel injected it is not needed. The idea was as prevoiusly mentioned ... to assist with cold weather warm ups. Any manifold can be coverted as its just a can added to create heat 'stove' a correctly sized section of exhaust pipe withba hose clamp can replace the current fitting to convert any manifold. Should you desire to do so. Otherwise it jusy funnels warn air up to the air box on cold days ... it is a vacuum motor valve that is thermally controlled (a thermal valve decides the function and engine vacuum does the work). It has absolutely NOTHING to do with emissions. Its just there to spped warm ups. As fo how the motor will function .... fuel, idle and timing are all ecu controlled ... the original intent was to help prevent carburetor freezes in cold climates. These are not a problem with the 4.0 ... especially in the southern states. Mine is removed and the section cut out. Underhood temps will keep the valve open and it will only be restrictive during cold start ... andbat that time it will draw air from the stove nipple ... so there is no restrictions there either. In Canada no one cares about it since we all know what it is already.

Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier

And yeah .... now you know why I did mine the way I did instead of just replacing the rad. Well that and the seven cracks in the pressure bottle. Anyone need a good cap?

There already is constant flow through the bottle. The valve is there to redirect it through the heater core when you turn on the heat. Otherwise coolant flows though the bottle ... it's a closed loop cooling system. It's not like the usual open loop system that runs an overflow bottle.

IIRC = If I Recall Correctly Just googled some pics .... looks like you can run from the manifold side termostat housing outlet to the upper pressure bottle fitting. Then run from bottom pressure bottle fitting into heater core lower and from heater core upper back to the steel thermostat fitting under the upper rad hose. That should eliminate the valve and retain the stock pressure bottle. Still too many hoses for my liking and will still be semi painful to burp but should make it easier.

Honestly its been a while since I saw my old system ... IIRC the pressure bottle is plumbed into one of the heater lines ... mine was all hard tube and crimped hoses. If you ran a Tee fitting in the appropriate line you should be able to retain the stock pressure bottle I would think. My stock 88 radiator crumbled to dust in my hands so it was all changed out of necessity.

Any chance you happen to have any instruction on this? Planning the same thing on my MJ ... my lock cylinder is just about done.

Yeah I cleaned it up somewhat. I used a HO bracket and bottle and used a part of the Renix bracket to mount the realys beh8nd the bottle. Then the ICM and coil are mounted to half of the old bracket and zap strapped to the bollte to eliminate vibrations for now. I will be using a Grand Cherokee 5.2L coil wire so I can mount the ICM to the fire wall above the heater core in a day or so. The cooling system was replaced with leftovers from a system refresh on my 2000XJ. '00 rad was used, the EGR was NFG so it was removed, the FPR and MAP lines were replaced with 3/16" brakline and I used parts of the EVAP line to rerun the CCV intake line to the aircleaner. I still have to replumb the EVAP line and will be doing so in 3/8" brakeline from the cannister to the intake manifold. It is still plumbed into the tank so I'm one line from done. The heater valve was removed and two lines were run from thermostat housing to heater core directly using 5/8" hose. I simply used my 2000 as a template to follow. I'll run out and grab a picture of the return bottle/ICM setup.

Fast orange bottle New system with HO return bottle

Yeah I put the coolant bottle over besdie the air cleaner in that picture (made one out of a fast orange bottle to get me by). Last week I swapped in a HO return bottle over by the ICM and modified brackets to make it all work until I can get a longer lead. Gimme a second and I'll snap a picture.

the 2.5 is an open cooling system IIRC and the overflow bottle is plumbed off the nipple in the rads fill neck. The early 4.0's will require conversion to open cooling (honestly can't remember what my hose mess used to look like). And again the overflow bottle is plumbed off the fill neck (small hose nipple). This only deletes the heater valve.

That's not a driver drop axle ... it's upside down. It's a passenger drop axle ... look at where the vent and the pinion galleries are ... Deffinitely not Ford ... ever. 76 was first time Disks were an option and those are not Ford 4wd brakes. The F250 was an Open Knuckle HPD44 for the 77.5-79 model years. Prior to that the F250 had a closed knuckle Low Pinion axle with drum brakes until 1976 when open knuckles hit the scene. Making the only low pinion Disk brake F250 axle ... a 1976 model (well, technically to 77.5 as it was the crossover year) ... which ran dual piston calipers and a highly webbed HD center casting. For all years the F250 used internal hubs as previously mentioned. The single piston brakes were found on 2wd trucks and Vans.

OK, fair enough ... but regardless of what he does have ... anyone that's ever owned a 2.5L can agree that a gear change is needed when going up to 32s. Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating on it ... I loved my 2.5L in my old YJ ... fine motor ... but it's no torque monster or high falootin' powerhouse either. But to the other part ... will they fit ... with minor trimming yes they will. They will rub the controll arms and in the front and rear lower edges of the wheelwells in the front. But you won't need to get all hacktastic to fit them either. The rear should sqeeze in OK though. Which again brings us back to making them spin .... bottomline .... the 2.5L is gonna need help.